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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The sensor is fine thread push in type connector located on the driver's side of the block. It is located very close to the starter, it isnt the oil press sending unit. thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
no, but if you look at the back of the starter, there is a grey connector that connects to a sensor of some type on the block. The sensor is round and to remove it I used a 32mm socket (around that size). reason for changing is, I noticed it was cracked, but in such bad condition I can't get a number to cross reference.
 

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If its right in front of the starter then its the knock sensor. They are bout 100 bucks a piece new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the help guys, don't have a dig camera with me, sorry for the lack of pics.
 

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it's the knock sensor. (rear if turbo)

n/a's only have one, and it's in the middle.

-shaeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I actually just got it to fire, so it wasn't needed to make it run. still would like to replace it though.
 

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Just for FYI...

The N/A will not run if the knock sensor is disconnected/broken. It will just start up and die.

The turbo will run if one of the knock sensors fail, but your timing/fuel, etc will be way off and you will get poor gas mileage. The ECU goes into an "almost-limp" mode. I would imagine that if both sensors fail, it will just die like the N/A.
 

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Zumtizzle said:
Is your check engine light on? Poke :1poke:
Thats a knock sensor if your running without it's okay but your running in "safe mode" but i heard of using a GM sensor they sell it on twosrus its for the 3S-GTE but i don't see why it won't work for the 7M-GTE :dunno:

The Sensor
The Adaptor
The Connector
it says that it is "high performance." What is so high performance about this?

Is it better than the stock one? It's only like 15 bucks cheaper altogether.
 

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yes, but the GM knock sensors are a LOT cheaper, can be had at any auto parts store, and last longer (at least on the MR2)
 
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