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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

Recently have come to the realization that i need a full slick instead of a radial after breaking my driveshaft last weekend. Was hoping to get some recommendations on which brand/model is the best? Looking to stay around 10.5 size on a 15x10" weld RTS with rolled/slightly pulled fenders.

Thanks,
Elijah
 

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Bfh = big freaking hammer I'm guessing
 

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Thanks. Whats a bfh? i've been looking at MT on summit, there'ss just sp many options to choose from it gets confusing
Bfh = big freaking hammer I'm guessing
Highboost has it.... you will need to take a sledge to the inner wheel well to make a 10.5 fit under the car, or spend a lot of time pulling the fenders out. Either way it takes a bit for work to get them to fit under the car without rubbing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Am I wrong? But I'm thinking that a full slick will only put more pressure on the driveshaft compared to a radial.

I've broke the factory 2 piece aluminum drive shift a bunch on slicks but only once on drag radials. Honestly the time I broke it on radials was my fault...

I don't think it is going to help mitigate the pressure on your drive shaft by going slick but I could be wrong. Just going off of my personal experience.

I went with a one piece steel shaft and hoop it. Never had that issue after. But then you have to worry about your rear end. Or a more expensive part snapping. The drive shaft is a quick and more affordable fix then the alternatives. I carried an extra aluminum with me when I was driving to the track.
 

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A radial tire will bounce causing wheel hop. A slick will not. Wheel hop is what breaks parts.

Steve K.
 

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Well that's how I broke the one when I was running drag radials.

Didn't know if getting more traction might cause more pressure on the driveshaft. I know I snapped more running slicks.
 

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Take it from people that have been drag racing Supras for a long time. You are MUCH better off with a slick.

Steve K.
 

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I am the epitome of this thread. Drag radials = BAD NEWS
Slicks ALL the way
 

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Following this thread. I'm coming to this conclusion quickly as my proefi traction control, even with r888s , is jist constant until 70mph.

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A radial tire will bounce causing wheel hop. A slick will not. Wheel hop is what breaks parts.

Steve K.
You are correct but I have not noticed this with my R888s. I am running 275/40-18. I am also on a built auto with 3800 stall so that's probably the difference. They slip and spin a little if I get on it in first but they still grip pretty hard. Definitely no hop or chatter. I'm also only running around 26psi in the tires. That seemed to be where the rubber sat the best.
 

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You are correct but I have not noticed this with my R888s. I am running 275/40-18. I am also on a built auto with 3800 stall so that's probably the difference. They slip and spin a little if I get on it in first but they still grip pretty hard. Definitely no hop or chatter. I'm also only running around 26psi. That seemed to be where the rubber sat the best.
What power are you putting down and what gas? I'm in the 750 range with e85, built auto and 4k stall.

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What power are you putting down and what gas? I'm in the 750 range with e85, built auto and 4k stall.

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I'm only in the 500s running 93 octane gas. I'm certain 750 would slip bad in 1st and probably 2nd as well. I was mostly commenting on chatter and hop which I have not experienced when they do slip. Suspension has a LOT to do with your raw acceleration traction though. I'm on eibach lowering springs and Koni reds which is old and worn by this point. I'm planning on upgrading to the Stance drag kit for the Supra but I have to get the ProEFI done first this off season. If I recall correctly our cars are pretty similar except for your electronics upgrades. I'm still on the alphabet soup.
 
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