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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I made mine fairly easy...When I first started I was distracted doing other things at the same time but when I actually looked at it I made this one in less than an hour. I should cut about 3-4" off the straight section under the 90* bend to make it sit closer to the chasis.

- 1 3" 90* bend
- 2 3" 45* bends
- 1 3" v-band flange

thats it.



It is taped together right now (yes taped). I don't have a welder at home so I will weld it up at school tomorrow.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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its not hard when you make a tight radius bend like that. i think the problem that people complain about is that such a tight bend is required to fit a 3" dp on the Ebay manifold.

for this reason, i will be making my own manifold from cast steel weld els, and placing the exhaust housing center to the 3 and 4 cylinders. itll most likely be turned towards the headlight and my PS resivoir is going to be relocated. .

looks good, should work pretty well mang.
 

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This Is Why I'm Hot.....
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That's great!

That's great Legos pipe work. If it fits as good as it looks on the floor, you'll be stylin'. The V-band & initial bend on yours is a bit steeper than needed for my TO-4E on Dynamic AutoSports exh man, but it still offers good flow...remember the V-band on the turbine housing also adds a bit of horizontal 'length' to the outlet*.

Are you going to connect the WG dumptube to it? That's the tricky part for mine, & I'm lucky to have a dead engine to mount the stuff on for a dry run- then MIG welded mild, fast & easy to get it to the coaters. SS is nice, but mild-coated is nice, too. Enough rambling.

Good luck with the final fitting!

Take care.

*edit: see my avatar, LOL.
 

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No one said anything about a 3" dp being hard, it was the 4inch part that was hard homie ;) aight peace :chicken:
 

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Buddy thought I had a NA
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it is just the bend that suck that is why i never bought it

so i said fuck let see what the 57 trim will do
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Larry_A said:
That's great Legos pipe work. If it fits as good as it looks on the floor, you'll be stylin'. The V-band & initial bend on yours is a bit steeper than needed for my TO-4E on Dynamic AutoSports exh man, but it still offers good flow...remember the V-band on the turbine housing also adds a bit of horizontal 'length' to the outlet*.

Are you going to connect the WG dumptube to it? That's the tricky part for mine, & I'm lucky to have a dead engine to mount the stuff on for a dry run- then MIG welded mild, fast & easy to get it to the coaters. SS is nice, but mild-coated is nice, too. Enough rambling.

Good luck with the final fitting!

Take care.

*edit: see my avatar, LOL.
You are right the wastegate dump tube is going to be the hard part. I am going to have to rig something up so that I can rotate it 90* otherwise the dumptube will just hit the block or the chasis on the other side. There is an inch or less clearance on both sides of it and that is not enough room to make anything. Still debating whether I am going to connect it back to the downpipe or just vent it.
 

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Looking at doing the same with mine... having the dumptube attached to the midpipe also...

Where'd you get the pipe/bends from?
 

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If you are planning on making a manifold that will angle towards the headlight, you don't have to relocate the power steering. On the RPS Manifold, i had a 4" intake on my GT60 and it slid right in between the tower and reservoir. Relocating power steering is just a waste of time IMO, especially when a 4" pipe WILL fit there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
BoostAddctn said:
No one said anything about a 3" dp being hard, it was the 4inch part that was hard homie ;) aight peace :chicken:

Yea I know I saw a buddy's mk3 with a gt42 and the same manifold. The firewall had to be bashed in, cut out, and re welded to make the 4" downpipe fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
bump...

I need some welding advice. After welding the downpipe into one piece, is it bad to use a grinder to grind the welds down? I did some intercooler piping the other day and used a bench grinder and made the welds so they are smooth, after polishing you can't even see the seams, they are flush with the piping. Is this a bad idea to do on exhaust piping because of the heat? I will be putting in a flex section if that makes a difference.
 

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Supranian
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When you grind the welds you are removing metal used to hold the whole thing together. It will be underneathe the car anyway. Who will see it. Keep the weld intact.
 

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well if your weld fully penetrates the metal it should be just as strong, but if your not on it long enough, or not running enough juice to get full penetration, then you wouldnt wanna grind the welds down. as long as your confident in your welding ability (if you really want it on there good, get a buddy to weld it at the same time you are, go for double penetration)
 

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Workin' Man
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You should bevel the edge of both pieces a lay your bead in the "valley" that is created. With this method you should be able to grind the welds flat with out weakening them.
 

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Darkcyde said:
You should bevel the edge of both pieces a lay your bead in the "valley" that is created. With this method you should be able to grind the welds flat with out weakening them.
thats an excellent way to help get good penetration
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Darkcyde said:
You should bevel the edge of both pieces a lay your bead in the "valley" that is created. With this method you should be able to grind the welds flat with out weakening them.
Yup, did that. :) Who would have thought my Pipe Drafting course would actualy come in handy. :bigthumb:

There will be plenty of "juice", the welder is bigger than I am.
 
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