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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,911 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had great compression like 180 across the board with a 1.2mm metal hg. I had a new oil pump with 8k miles on it. Every thing ran fine then when driving at 60mph knock occured. Well after taking the engine apart with the great Chevyeater we discovered that the oil pump drive shaft was the culprit. The bushing in the front where it bolts to the block was out of spec and worn. This caused the shaft to move forward and backwards causing the pully drive gear to erode to the point where the shaft no longer was spinning with the engine. The pully turned but the shaft itself was rounded off and it did not turn with the pully. Thus oil pressure dropped a bit then just let loose and started knocking from lack of oil. :dunno: All of the bearings, and mains were fine except rod #1 which the bearing was fused to the crank. The crank other than rod jounal #1 was micro polished in perfect condition after inpsecting it. Chevy gave me a 7m crank which is 10 over and polished ready to assemble, with clevites, and arp rod bolts, and all rods recut and sized!This down period has allowed me to sell of all that I had to get a gt4088 and go foward facing intake so it was a benefit in a way. :) Hopefully the ffi pics will be up in a week or so, since I am still waiting for my fabricator to finish it. Wow did it look sweet when I saw it. :) Sooo..... Look out for worn oil pump drive shaft bushings that is on the front of the shaft where it bolts to the engine. Make sure that after it is bolted to the block that there is no play or backwards and forwards movement! For some of you 7m beaters this is not a 7m is a knock felon thread. It merely is to show that if one thing is done wrong when doing the engine at any stage of the game knock will and can occur. You must be very dillgent when doing a rebuild.
 

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RoastBeefCurtain Commando
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6,015 Posts
damn that sucks dude. Motors can be scary at times. Ive had my fair shair of shit like that before. Youl pull out of it stronger. Stuff like that just makes you wanna build more. lol. Funny how that works
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,911 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Duane I got your message Call me anytime today. I was on the phone with Howard Blackdevilsupra lst night at 12.00am.;)

Thanks for the support itr206 you are all too correct! :bigthumb:
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,911 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks again all. I just thought I would help others not make mistakes that would keep on haunting the community. The key of a good rebuild is just being careful, and getting a good machine shop. Check everything twice. I may have checked my torque specs 3x's before buttoning up evrything. Don't rush, and take the tame to double, and tripple check so that you are certain that you won't leave something loose. Rod knock is a failed rebuild or faulty machine problem. And also something that fails that was missed like my oil pump drive shaft!
 

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I can't send QWIKSTRIKE a PM because he has no space left, and he doesn't want to be emailed so here's my message:

I think I've had something similar happen to me. I bought coinball's supra off of the forums a month ago and it developed a knock 800 miles after his rebuild.
http://video.google.com/videoprevie...t+2:28+AM+PDT

I've basically taken apart the whole engine now, and none of the rod or crank bearings are bad. I think it's the oil pump drive shaft. Here are some pictures of the drive shaft:
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en... bearings.jpg
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...ive shaft.jpg
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (1).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (2).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (3).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (4).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (5).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (6).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (7).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (8).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (9).JPG

Here are some pictures of the front bearing:
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...rings (1).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...rings (3).JPG

My question relates to the first group of pictures. That spacer that I have moved around in different pictures isn't supposed to move like that right? Before I took the whole thing out, the drive shaft could move in and out of the block a 1/2 inch or so. I'm thinking that isn't right. I haven't measured the bearing yet, but I'm guessing it's out of clearance.
Also, the Haynes Supra manual I have tells you that replacing the oil pump drive shaft bearings is a job beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Is this true? Are there any special tools needed to take out the bearing? I would like to do the job myself because the nearest good machine shop is 45 minutes away.
thanks
Jordan
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,911 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
dreamweaver13 said:
I can't send QWIKSTRIKE a PM because he has no space left, and he doesn't want to be emailed so here's my message:
I think I've had something similar happen to me. I bought coinball's supra off of the forums a month ago and it developed a knock 800 miles after his rebuild.
http://video.google.com/videoprevie...t+2:28+AM+PDT

I've basically taken apart the whole engine now, and none of the rod or crank bearings are bad. I think it's the oil pump drive shaft. Here are some pictures of the drive shaft:
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en... bearings.jpg
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...ive shaft.jpg
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (1).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (2).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (3).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (4).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (5).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (6).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (7).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (8).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...shaft (9).JPG

Here are some pictures of the front bearing:
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...rings (1).JPG
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~weaverjd/en...rings (3).JPG

My question relates to the first group of pictures. That spacer that I have moved around in different pictures isn't supposed to move like that right? Before I took the whole thing out, the drive shaft could move in and out of the block a 1/2 inch or so. I'm thinking that isn't right. I haven't measured the bearing yet, but I'm guessing it's out of clearance.
Also, the Haynes Supra manual I have tells you that replacing the oil pump drive shaft bearings is a job beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Is this true? Are there any special tools needed to take out the bearing? I would like to do the job myself because the nearest good machine shop is 45 minutes away.
thanks
Jordan

I have been busy and away dude. Belive it or not since I work in NYC I Don't always come home nightly.Pictures don't work dude. That drive shaft is what f/d me. Replace it because i t is worn. That was my problem. Get new bearings if you taken every thing apart.
 

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hey qwik, was the oil pump shaft bushings replaced during the first rebuild. it funny you mention this. when i got my 7m rebuilt my machinst didn't want to replaced them and said the old ones were fine. i ORDERED him to replaced them and he did. i changed every sinlge bearing and bushing in the motor with brand new toyota ones from good oil jeff watson.

fyi.. i think those bearings cost around 45.00 well worth it.
 

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25psi Bliss
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1,448 Posts
There is a procedure in the TSRM on how to spec' out the oil pump gear drive shaft. Please verify and abide to it as with the other tolerance inspections that are required before assembly.
 

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did you get all your replacement parts and bearings from Toyota? I'm guessing that certain parts will be pretty expensive - like the drive shaft and bushing. Would it be ok to get some stuff from Autozone? I wonder if they'd even have that stuff.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,911 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
dreamweaver13 said:
did you get all your replacement parts and bearings from Toyota? I'm guessing that certain parts will be pretty expensive - like the drive shaft and bushing. Would it be ok to get some stuff from Autozone? I wonder if they'd even have that stuff.

I had a spare or two or three lying around. That's what happens when you accumulate engines and cars. EXTRA PARTS.LOL :wtflol: :stickpoke :bigthumb:
 

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Oldie but a Goodie
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1,465 Posts
Same thing happened to my school auto club's 66 nova when we went racing one night. Except that the pickup was the culprit and after getting loose enough to hit the crank, grenaded and dried up the rest of the pump. Except that the way things happened with us, we lost spark and oil pressure at the same time, so no harm done aside from the pump.

Glad to see you're car is still doing well.
 

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i had the same thing occur. my pump shaft had about .25 inches of endplay. I always wondered why my oil pressure was sooooo low. The motors have lasted, only spun bearings as a result of blown oil cooler hoses, and broken rods at over 170mph.
 

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THANKS Qwik! I am about ready to start putting my motor back together and this is a big part that I missed! I'll be ordering a new set of bearings from jeff watson tomorrow so they're here in time for me to start putting her together. I already have a new oil pump and this would really suck to have happen after putting so much money into the motor :\
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,911 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
When getting new bearings for the oil pump drive shaft remember to check clearance fo the drive shaft. The bushing may have to be machined if the block was hot tanked.
 
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