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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
No im not going to do this just trying to trouble shoot where a short maybe. :sadance:
 

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slower than a turtle
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yes it will but you will throw a code 52 i belive. but if there is a short already there then your already throwing a code 52 in which case you need to simply do a KS rewire
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
supraguru05 said:
yes it will but you will throw a code 52 i belive. but if there is a short already there then your already throwing a code 52 in which case you need to simply do a KS rewire
It was throwing a 52 earlier but now its not and the damn thing wont even start. First it was the wiring on the afm that went out, so I fixed that and It ran for few days. Then as I was pulling down my street my check engine light came on, so I pulled over figuring i'd pull the codes to make sure it was nothing big before I got further from my house. Turn off the car to pull the codes and I pull an AFM issue again. So I wiggle the AFM wires, then go to start it to take it home and it wont start, just cranks. So I run home grab my grand cherokee to tow the supra back to my house, resodder the afm wires, go to start and it still just sits there and cranks. Lastly I reach down and wiggle the Knock sensor wires, go to start it and it starts right up! Take it for a test spin around the block it runs fine. Then I go out again a few hours later to start it and it doesn't start! :gaysex:



edit btw who was the smart person at toyota that put two brown wires going into the AFM? I mean is it that hard to use a different color?
 

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SUPRAF0RUMS TROLL
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you wiggled the knock sensor wires but could it be possible that you also touched the heavy gauge wire that leads to the starter... as for the KS wires... they may not have been bad at all and only hiccuped or you detonated or something
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
BrokenSupra said:
you wiggled the knock sensor wires but could it be possible that you also touched the heavy gauge wire that leads to the starter... as for the KS wires... they may not have been bad at all and only hiccuped or you detonated or something
it cranks fine and stumbles trying to start like it did when my AFM wires went out. Only now Im getting no codes. Im going to try a new AFM tonight when I get home, hopefully that'll fix it.
 

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sacto-mkIII said:
it cranks fine and stumbles trying to start like it did when my AFM wires went out. Only now Im getting no codes. Im going to try a new AFM tonight when I get home, hopefully that'll fix it.
Looks like you are at the same place I am now. At least my car will start though..but won't rev...lets see who fixes it first .lol. Im thinking of picking up a whole different harness from the junker :) as my wires look brittle and shit..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SUPRASTANGER507mgte said:
Looks like you are at the same place I am now. At least my car will start though..but won't rev...lets see who fixes it first .lol. Im thinking of picking up a whole different harness from the junker :) as my wires look brittle and shit..
yeah thats been on my mind too... I just need to find out if my 87 harness will work. The cars an 89 *lol i made sure after what you told me about your friend* but it has the higher redline, and if I remember correctly they didn't switch over to the new cpu/harness untill half way through 89. If so I have two spare harnesses laying around. Its just weird that I got it started and it ran fine, no check engine light or anything then when I went to start it an hour later it wouldn't start again.
 

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sacto-mkIII said:
yeah thats been on my mind too... I just need to find out if my 87 harness will work. The cars an 89 *lol i made sure after what you told me about your friend* but it has the higher redline, and if I remember correctly they didn't switch over to the new cpu/harness untill half way through 89. If so I have two spare harnesses laying around. Its just weird that I got it started and it ran fine, no check engine light or anything then when I went to start it an hour later it wouldn't start again.
Yeah I think after 9/89 it rolls to the new model year for us imported cars.
Check the ECu plugs, if all of them are grey, then its the newer ecu/harness.

Older ones were yellow plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
SUPRASTANGER507mgte said:
Yeah I think after 9/89 it rolls to the new model year for us imported cars.
Check the ECu plugs, if all of them are grey, then its the newer ecu/harness.

Older ones were yellow plugs.
oh ok sweet... that means I have an extra cpu too if I need it, because the date on the door jam was 11/88 making it one of the first 89 year cars. I was just gonna throw the cpu up on ebay but now I may hang on to it.
 

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JZA80 > JZA70
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mine was a early 89 purcahsed in 88 forgot which month, but it has grey harness plugs when i thought it would be the yellow ones just double check yours
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
lilazni3uoy said:
mine was a early 89 purcahsed in 88 forgot which month, but it has grey harness plugs when i thought it would be the yellow ones just double check yours
yeah its first thing im gonna do when I get home I think. Im hoping I dont need to replace the whole harness but i'd be nice to know I already have one if I end up needing to.

ps whats your reline on your dash if you dont mind me asking?
 

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ok just want to add my 2 sents. Iam thanking when you leaned over to wiggle the wire 4 the knonk senser, you may have push the old ground wire on the coil pack.That might be why it turns over but no start.And 4 that code 52 the wire was porblaby on it way out . Good Luck.
 

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slowly giving up...
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BrokenSupra said:
you wiggled the knock sensor wires but could it be possible that you also touched the heavy gauge wire that leads to the starter... as for the KS wires... they may not have been bad at all and only hiccuped or you detonated or something
if you're not POSITIVE as to what the KS's do, then don't post.

you could detonate into oblivion and the ECU would not throw a code 52. you could turn your fuel pressure down to nearly nothing, and blow your motor up, and there will be no code 52.

the ONLY things that code 52 mean are:

-bad wiring to the knock sensor(s)
-bad knock sensor(s)
-bad connections
or, in the rare case, bad ECU.

the TCCS has NO idea if your car is detonating.

-shaeff
 

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*SNICKER SNICKER*
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I say forget your KS wires, and start from square 1. Check for ignitor signal, fuel injector pulses, fuel pump, EFI Fuse, Main Relay, etc.

The problem you have described is way to vauge to even begin to guess without more information about what is or is not going on with you car.
 
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