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2007 FSAE World Champion
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1,291 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been needing to put Brake ducts on my car ever since I bought it and finally bit the bullet and put them on.

My car has an AP 6 piston front caliper, with 343mm diameter, 36mm wide 2 piece rotors. Even with that, during almost any track day I get the rotor's too hot, and cause surface cracking very quickly and only get a few track days from a set of rotors.

I bought the following components and from Amazon and Aircraft spruce and fabricated some mounting brackets from Aluminum sheetmetal to mount the 2.5" Brake ducting.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php

http://www.amazon.com/Thermoid-Neoprene-Ducting-2-5-Section/dp/B0039L1ZBK?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_sw_r_other_apa_jg1lxbPFWN5H4

It is very tight getting something mounted out by the wheel, and while I maybe could have come up with something even better than I did, I like the simplicity of mounting the outer duct to the end of the Anti-Roll bar.

I will report back with on track results after I do a few track days next month.

http://s327.photobucket.com/user/supradjza80/library/Supra Brake Ducts?sort=3&page=1










My welder unfortunately still welded the backside after I asked him not too, so I had to file and sand the weld bleed to make them look better.





 

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2007 FSAE World Champion
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Discussion Starter #2











Clearances are tight to the steering boot but from some bending of the wire in the brake duct tube I was able to make it so they almost never contact each other. I will be keeping an eye on it though as the duct tubes are not constrained perfectly(put pretty well) and potentially can move over time.


At some point I may powder coat the inlets black but for now I am liking the raw aluminum finish.
 

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Very Senior Member
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10,053 Posts
Very clean looking! Can you drop by my house and do mine??!!
I look forward to hearing an update on how they work and if you find any improvements to report.
Thanks for sharing.
BTW - I like that undertray. Did you do a writeup on it? Seems like I remember a write-up but don't remember if it was yours.
 

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2007 FSAE World Champion
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Discussion Starter #4
Lets see how they work first and then I will consider doing yours!

As for the undertray I don't think I did a write up on it, but i could put one together for it. Basically I made some cardboard templates and then purchased some sheet plastic - Using .060" Polypropolene sheet to make the undertray and cut it out by hand. I started out using HDPE which is what the stock plastics were but after I cracked the front section (dragged it on the ground), the plastic vendor recommended the PP so I went that route and have been fine ever since. The car has been up to 160-165 quite a few times and never had an issue with it so it seems it is plenty strong and secure.
 

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2007 FSAE World Champion
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Discussion Starter #6
I was familiar with the aluminumilite, which I think is great for splitter material. Due to the difference in height between the lip and the radiator support, I think a more flexible material is ideal. I also like not worrying about sharp metal edges on the undertRay.

If I were to do it again, I would consider omegabond from the same company. It allows for a lot of flex, but I'm not sure if it would be forgiving enough for this application.

I am really excited to get to the track and see how the ducts perform!
 

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Inline for the win
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4,727 Posts
Great mod... I am looking into doing the same but with the whifbitz rep lip

DP
 

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That looks excellent, Dave! I'm sure you will feel the improvement.

There are some similarities with mine but I bet your duct openings in the lip might grab more air than mine since yours are larger. I haven't faded my brakes in years but I'm also not pushing the limits.




Openings in my Seibon TJ lip are smaller:
 

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2007 FSAE World Champion
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Discussion Starter #10
So uhhh, how much would you charge me to make me a set of the flanges that go to the rotor?
They are pretty easy for me to make, minus the aluminum tig welding that I need to have a friend do for me. Let me just make sure there is no major issues with them on track and if you are still interested I still do have my templates and could make more pretty easily, and come up with a fair price for them.
 

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2007 FSAE World Champion
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
That looks excellent, Dave! I'm sure you will feel the improvement.

There are some similarities with mine but I bet your duct openings in the lip might grab more air than mine since yours are larger. I haven't faded my brakes in years but I'm also not pushing the limits.

Openings in my Seibon TJ lip are smaller:
Nick,

Thanks for the kind words. Do you have some pictures of how your ducts are mounted out at the wheel and how you ran them up to the front of the car? Also are they 2.5" or even bigger ducts? I really like the look of your inlet ducts, and if I had more metal working tools I think I would have gone for a similar idea molding the aluminum inlet more to the shape of the front lip inlets instead of what I did. But for a guy with my level of fab skills I went with the easiest way I could integrate the duct opening to a 2.5" round duct.

I also have no issues with Brake fade but I can tell you that rotor and pad life is sub par and the rotors are definitely getting too hot. My calipers are also on the upper end of the OK operating zone. This modification was mainly to get my rotors to last hopefully twice as many track days along with the pads. I tend to be pretty tough on the brakes and like pushing the brake zones so hopefully this will achieve my goal of maybe a 25% reduction in brake temps which should do a lot for my component life.

I also really like your undertray. Is that mounted from your lip to the radiator support? How did you get around having to form the undertray up towards the radiator support as on my car the front lip sits quite a bit lower than the radiator support mounting points. Also, since it looks like you may have the same issue I have, what have you done for a front tow hook location? That is something I need to get setup on my car soon as I really don't have a good one unless I pull the lip and undertray off.
 

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Reverend Hillclimb
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They are pretty easy for me to make, minus the aluminum tig welding that I need to have a friend do for me. Let me just make sure there is no major issues with them on track and if you are still interested I still do have my templates and could make more pretty easily, and come up with a fair price for them.
I would love that.
Good work! Love seeing road racing modifications
 

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Very Senior Member
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Just a personal opinion, but with the hose terminating over a diameter away from the rotor, I doubt you are getting any benefit from the ducts.

Should be like this:
..
Nice.
What vehicles are those? Can pieces like those shown be made for a MKIV?
 

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2007 FSAE World Champion
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just a personal opinion, but with the hose terminating over a diameter away from the rotor, I doubt you are getting any benefit from the ducts.

Should be like this:
While I appreciate your opinion, my actual experience from other chassis's that are raced differs from yours.

And while I agree that is the ideal way, there isn't a good way to make that fit on a supra and still have much steering angle that you want in a street car. There are even big cooling gains from control arm mounted cooling deflectors.
 

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Reverend Hillclimb
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I have tried mocking it up to get the full flow to the top hat however it requires fabbing up a crescent moon shape with a full opening for the hose. Its just too annoying unless you are a fab guy. I am not so I think this is the next best thing.

Also as stated above, the working area is tight, as the saying goes, there is not much "room for activities"
 

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Not Enough Grip
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And while I agree that is the ideal way, there isn't a good way to make that fit on a supra and still have much steering angle that you want in a street car. There are even big cooling gains from control arm mounted cooling deflectors.
This is the setup that Stage6 did for me. I have not had any issues with steering angle limitations and it was easy for them to make...




In this pic you can see the air hose is zip tied to the under tray and I have had very little contact with the tire...




Thread with more info:

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?598159-Pics-of-Stage6-Motorsports-Brake-Rotor-Ducts&highlight=brake+ducts




.
 

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2007 FSAE World Champion
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Discussion Starter #19
Joshua - That looks very nice. Are your front rotors 14" I wonder if your hats give you a little more space to fit the duct into the center compared to my 13.5"/343mm AP's. Looks like they welded just an angled tube off the fabricated aluminum backing plate which was my original hope that i didn't see a good way to execute. If I still feel like I need more cooling (definitely likely), and I don't get the desired increase in rotor/pad life on track I may look into making version 2.0 like this.

Do you drive your car much on the street or is it mostly just track only? I do think I would have interference with the control arm/wheel going from lock to lock, and since I use the car on the street a lot I didn't want to worry about that. I also like to autocross from time to time which does make you have to use a lot of steering angle compared to the big track stuff. Also are you using stock Lower control arms? Any Roll Center correction to give more clearance to the arm from the ball joint?
 

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Administrator
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Nice work all around, great to see some cool functional fabbed parts...some of you should start a homegrown parts group buy on here and start selling them!
 
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