[Guest]

I was wondering what you guys use for wire in your system setups. I know this has to be one of the most important things in stereo system's and it's often overlooked. So what's good...

As far as power wire, RCA, Speaker wire...

What's the best? What power wire can handle high current?

What's the cleanest RCA and speaker wire?

Any one manufacturer? Any good suppliers? Not looking for bulk, just a place that will carry it. Thanks.

 

[SHOWOFF]

I've never "heard" it but Audison is supposedly god-like in the wiring concern. The RCA's come with a rosewood box, lined with velvet and a glass top. They also come with an ABSURD price tag.

 

[Flavio]

Don't go spending lots of money on exotic wiring for your car. I don't think you will hear the difference between different cables in a car's environment, it is much too noisy for that.

Just make sure you use thick enough power cabling for the amount of current you are expecting to draw and make sure it is flexible.
Same goes for speaker wiring.
Use twisted signal cables, they are better at rejecting noise.

Flavio

 

[Guest]

Showoff, yeah i've heard of that stuff. It's crazy expensive though. Totally not worth it IMO. I mean it's one thing to have a clear signal and good wire, but im not gonna spend a couple hundred bucks on a patch cable.

Flavio, I hear ya, it's definately not worth spending hundred's on wiring. But it also isn't worth spending a few grand on system and going to K Mart to buy your wire. I usually use Monster Cable for most of my wiring. The Monster Cable twisted pair speaker wire is awesome.

For power wire I usually go with a Genie or something like that. I am running 0/1 gauge in my Supra. But im going to be getting a new car soon and I started planning my system.

I just picked up an ORION XTRPRO 2400 Amplifier. 2400 watts at 2ohms stable.

It's fucking huge...

Slowly going to be purchasing my system. I also had another question. Anyone have any experience with the Alumapro Capacitors? Are they any good? I was thinking of picking up one of their 5 Farad caps. Since they are small, instead of buying several 1 farad caps.

 

[Guest]

5 farads? Holy shiznits!!! My 1-farad is way more than I need.
I bought a Rockford Fosgate Dual-Amp wiring kit for mine(bro worked at Best Buy, discounts ).Comes with........

4 guage Power
4 guage Ground
8 guage Power
8 guage Ground
2 Distribution Blocks
1 set of Purple RCA's(WTF, dual amp, only 1 set of RCA's??)
Remote wire
Speaker wire(dont remember size)
Miscelleanous shitty ass connectors that I didn't use.

Regular Price is $120 I think.(I got it for $60 )

 

[Guest]

Damn I spent 60 bucks on just my 0/1 gauge power wire...

I have 2 1 farad caps in my system in the Supra now...

 

[Guest]

tito

Damn I spent 60 bucks on just my 0/1 gauge power wire...


The last spl ride spent close to 3k on batteries, wire, caps, and a shit load of fuses... not too mention custom fab'd brass power blocks as well as one power network regulator, and the weight of the 4000lbs vehicle is now a little over double....

Wiring for power, skimp on this and your asking for trouble!
Rcas on the other hand has long been the debate of the competitors, Basically side one says even cheapy wiring will do just as well as the mega $$$ one's

My experience is a little bit of both sides. In pure spl, the noise induction is not a big deal, so I don't even recomend the expensive audio path connectors. Sound off cars are another story... it all depends on the car, the set up, and the vehicles natural magnetic field. And two cars, even if they are the same model yr and so forth are never the same. Basically I live by the 30$+ dollar stuff, seems to work well, if the owner is dead set on the mega dollar ones, then they'll get those...

Basically if you get noise into your system, and you have deduced it to the rcas, pull them up and lay them over the seats/carpeting running to the amps/sig process. If it goes away, it the location, if not, then try wrapping the rca by the beginning and end, or where ever it may cross a positive wire, that runs parallel to the chassis. Wrap it in alum foil and then rubber, or a solid amount of electrical tape. This may or may not solve your noise problem, for me it has 75% of the time, when the noise was being introduced through the rcas.

As for the brands of wire I use pg, monster, and streetwire the most, unless by special request.

Caps work off chemical ---> electrical E conversion. hence why they have a time life span. If you need 5 caps and the use up X amount of room, then a single chem 5 farad cap, will require very close to the same amount of space as X. By space I mean volume of electro chemical matarial...

Tito, what is your new toy? if it is a lexus, keep away from the SC, cause that's my new toy....... Arrrr everyone wants a lexus.........

Thats it hot pink will be the colour j/k mine will be Quick silver soon

 

[Guest]

3K on just that stuff HOLY SHIT!!!

Hehe, dont worry man, you can keep your SC. I got's me a GS!!

96 GS 400, Black, gonna be pimped out...

Planning on 3 10" JL W7's or 3 10" Eclipse
A few Orion amps
Focal speakers
Eclipse receiver
PS2
Tv's
DUBS!

Gonna be sweet man. You gonna hear me coming baby!!

 

[Guest]

96 gs, very nice ride,
but needs built trany, fuel and the old sp63, get the turbo off larry at sp and custom fab everything else, bit of n20 and you now have a lex that fly's and bumps...

But... my goal is some where about 700+ on them wheels, so pretty soon I will be the proud owner of an drivetrain less SC, and a parts only mkiv tt, and I will be forced to park my day driver in the snow

Tito, your gonna love that lexus, I have been in love with them, ever since I got my first ride in one back in 95, have never been the same... That is the only car that will fit me when I put the seat all the way back, and can still keep my ass warm through the long winter months.

Only problems with the lexus' is the gas tank in the back seat deal, suck some big ones when it comes to mounting big audio systems, but then again, that can always be worked around, just find a good friend with a plasma cutter (cheese cutter), and let the welding begin.