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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been meaning to write something like this for a while and I'd like to get it on paper (so to speak) before I forget most of it. I've scraped up some information from other forums, a lot more information from PMs to other members and about the same amount of info browsing sites and calling suppliers of sumitomo/amp/tyco connectors so I'm not taking credit for all of this information (only some ;)) but rather just compiling it.

During the rebuild on my '87 turbo automatic I had every intention of running new wire for the entire wiring harness, as the previous owner had neglected it and I had simply put up with the occasional electrical gremlin. My idea of running new wire is a complete, solid length of wire with new terminals crimped onto the ends, plugged into new shoddy soldering onto 25 year old terminals re-using crusty connectors for me, I wanted to do this once and once only.

I won't delve into the differences in wire available today but I preferred Tefzel (PTFE) over everything else. Lightweight, oil resistant and an extremely high temperature rating (450*F) lured me in. I originally bought 500' total and ran short, so I'd estimate a brand new harness with everything re-wired (ac, cruise control, everything) would be in the realm of 700' or so of wire. Just remember if you cheap out and the wire gets crusty after a few years, blame yourself for buying radioshack bargain bin wire.

Anyways, onto the terminals:

Removing terminals from connectors

Forget their junk tool, just go buy a jewelers screwdriver set and use the smallest flathead in the box. Look at the pictures in the link and you'll understand better than anyone could describe in text. For almost all of the connectors on your harness, the wires are pulled out of the back of the connector while you de-pin them from the front.


ECU connectors and pins
The automatic ECU and manual ECU use different connectors but they are of the same variety. The ECU uses pulse-lock connectors (made by AMP/Tyco):
Cap Connector for Board Mount
The housing is preloaded with tab contacts with right-angle posts. It is soldered onto the PC Board and mates with the plug connector. The cap connector includes a 24-position connector for signal circuits, a 30-position connector for power circuits (accepts a 12-position and a 18-position plug connector), and a 42-position connector for intermixed signal and power circuits (accepts a 14-position and a 18-position plug connector for signal circuits and a 10-position plug connector for power circuits), and a 52-position connector (accepts a 18-position and a 24-position plug connector for signal circuits and a 10-position plug connector for power circuits).
Header panel connector:
Part #: 1-172319-7

10 pin connector:
Part #: 172315-7

18 pin connector:
Part #: 172316-7

24 pin connector:
Part #: 172317-7

(I haven't found the gray ECU connectors yet, I'm still looking for the part numbers for them.)

pin part #'s for above yellow ECU connectors:
170352-1 (tin plated, 22-20 awg, strip)
170352-2 (gold plated, 22-20 awg, strip)
170353-1 (tin plated, 20-16 awg, strip)


Main harness connectors/terminals
90% of the stuff on the harness are sumitomo .090 series terminals and connectors.

Q - Are these connectors interchangeable with the ones on the harness?
A - Even though they look almost exactly the same, no, they are slightly different. HOWEVER: you may de-pin the wires from your harness and insert them into these connectors, as the terminal style hasn't changed. So if you break a female connector you'll be replacing both the male and female to be compatible.

There are a few connectors on the harness that don't have the generic .090 style terminals, or have hard to find connectors: knock sensors, TPS connector, AFM connector, noise filter, some of the connectors for the auto transmission.

TPS connector - buy the style listed on driftmotions website. Aaron does sell loose terminals, aka terminals WITHOUT a lead already crimped on. An alternative is to buy the 'Type A' terminals on phoenixtuning's website as these fit the stock connector if its in good shape.
AFM connector - type A terminals on phoenixtuning's website.
Knock sensor connectors - Toyota sells these, working on an alternative option
Noise filter - (these .250 terminals are also used for some of the larger connectors found for the transmission)
Auto transmission connector -
Oil pressure sender - Toyota does not sell these anymore. To be honest, a regular female spade connector works just fine but will not work with the connector. This shouldn't matter as the sender is covered by the plastic cover anyways.
Oxygen sensor - No idea on this one, which is unfortunate given they get very brittle


Crimp Tools

I personally have only used the Hero FRH-07 listed on this page:

That's not to say there are cheaper or better crimpers out there...but hey, I only need one for right now.

Can you get a decent crimp on open-barrel terminals with the generic crimper in Napa? Yes. Can you get a better, stronger crimp that doesn't stab a hole through the wire or damage the terminal with the more expensive crimper? Yes.

1,325 Posts
Can't wait to see the rest.

Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
7,014 Posts
I just ordered 6 mt .090 2pin connectors to hook up the pps, reverse and heater vsv on both my jz swapped cars. Hope I ordered the right stuff.
Still need to find the 4 pin abs connector now.

262 Posts
This will help when I get time to fix one of the ten engine harnesses I have in the garage collecting dust.

6,278 Posts

The grey connectors. Going from memory (and it is complete crap now a days) I think it is a summitomo connector. The others are Tyco/Amp as per your post. I recall seeing them on Honda Motorcycle harnesses.

491 Posts
Thanks alot for the info. Super useful.
Would you happen to know where i can get the smaller terminals for the ecu 170352-1, 170352-2?
I cant seem to find them in stock anywhere and most of the places have a huge minimum order.
I got 100 of the 170353 thinking i could use that for all of em but they only fit in the 10 pin connector.
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