Supra Forums banner

Wiring Harness Repair and Re-Wire (connectors, terminals, etc.)

19K views 16 replies 13 participants last post by  edbods 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been meaning to write something like this for a while and I'd like to get it on paper (so to speak) before I forget most of it. I've scraped up some information from other forums, a lot more information from PMs to other members and about the same amount of info browsing sites and calling suppliers of sumitomo/amp/tyco connectors so I'm not taking credit for all of this information (only some ;)) but rather just compiling it.

During the rebuild on my '87 turbo automatic I had every intention of running new wire for the entire wiring harness, as the previous owner had neglected it and I had simply put up with the occasional electrical gremlin. My idea of running new wire is a complete, solid length of wire with new terminals crimped onto the ends, plugged into new connectors...no shoddy soldering onto 25 year old terminals re-using crusty connectors for me, I wanted to do this once and once only.

I won't delve into the differences in wire available today but I preferred Tefzel (PTFE) over everything else. Lightweight, oil resistant and an extremely high temperature rating (450*F) lured me in. I originally bought 500' total and ran short, so I'd estimate a brand new harness with everything re-wired (ac, cruise control, everything) would be in the realm of 700' or so of wire. Just remember if you cheap out and the wire gets crusty after a few years, blame yourself for buying radioshack bargain bin wire.

Anyways, onto the terminals:


Removing terminals from connectors
http://www.superstreetonline.com/project_car/ssts_0911_diy_de_pinning_tool/

Forget their junk tool, just go buy a jewelers screwdriver set and use the smallest flathead in the box. Look at the pictures in the link and you'll understand better than anyone could describe in text. For almost all of the connectors on your harness, the wires are pulled out of the back of the connector while you de-pin them from the front.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ECU connectors and pins
The automatic ECU and manual ECU use different connectors but they are of the same variety. The ECU uses pulse-lock connectors (made by AMP/Tyco):
Cap Connector for Board Mount
The housing is preloaded with tab contacts with right-angle posts. It is soldered onto the PC Board and mates with the plug connector. The cap connector includes a 24-position connector for signal circuits, a 30-position connector for power circuits (accepts a 12-position and a 18-position plug connector), and a 42-position connector for intermixed signal and power circuits (accepts a 14-position and a 18-position plug connector for signal circuits and a 10-position plug connector for power circuits), and a 52-position connector (accepts a 18-position and a 24-position plug connector for signal circuits and a 10-position plug connector for power circuits).
Header panel connector:
Part #: 1-172319-7
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4AGdryy51Xf3YLJJ2ntxz9Ng=

10 pin connector:
Part #: 172315-7
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...15-7/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv%2bkWzvOmGqmjgkml%2baXU3r

18 pin connector:
Part #: 172316-7
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...2316-7/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv%2bkWzvOmGqmhTX145EfJZx

24 pin connector:
Part #: 172317-7
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...ha2pyFaduhuwbo/0q0it%2bKhShStge8Nzdl36DCK2gg=

(I haven't found the gray ECU connectors yet, I'm still looking for the part numbers for them.)

pin part #'s for above yellow ECU connectors:
170352-1 (tin plated, 22-20 awg, strip)
170352-2 (gold plated, 22-20 awg, strip)
170353-1 (tin plated, 20-16 awg, strip)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Main harness connectors/terminals
90% of the stuff on the harness are sumitomo .090 series terminals and connectors.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SM-MT/sm-mt.html

http://www.cycleterminal.com/mt-series-090.html

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/c-connectorhousingsandterminals.php

http://www.tweakdperformance.com/onlinestore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2

Q - Are these connectors interchangeable with the ones on the harness?
A - Even though they look almost exactly the same, no, they are slightly different. HOWEVER: you may de-pin the wires from your harness and insert them into these connectors, as the terminal style hasn't changed. So if you break a female connector you'll be replacing both the male and female to be compatible.



There are a few connectors on the harness that don't have the generic .090 style terminals, or have hard to find connectors: knock sensors, TPS connector, AFM connector, noise filter, some of the connectors for the auto transmission.

TPS connector - buy the style listed on driftmotions website. Aaron does sell loose terminals, aka terminals WITHOUT a lead already crimped on. An alternative is to buy the 'Type A' terminals on phoenixtuning's website as these fit the stock connector if its in good shape.
AFM connector - type A terminals on phoenixtuning's website.
Knock sensor connectors - Toyota sells these, working on an alternative option
Noise filter - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html (these .250 terminals are also used for some of the larger connectors found for the transmission)
Auto transmission connector - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/3P250-rr/3p250-rr.html
Oil pressure sender - Toyota does not sell these anymore. To be honest, a regular female spade connector works just fine but will not work with the connector. This shouldn't matter as the sender is covered by the plastic cover anyways.
Oxygen sensor - No idea on this one, which is unfortunate given they get very brittle

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Crimp Tools

I personally have only used the Hero FRH-07 listed on this page: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Tools/tools.html

That's not to say there are cheaper or better crimpers out there...but hey, I only need one for right now.

Can you get a decent crimp on open-barrel terminals with the generic crimper in Napa? Yes. Can you get a better, stronger crimp that doesn't stab a hole through the wire or damage the terminal with the more expensive crimper? Yes.
 
See less See more
#5 ·
I just ordered 6 mt .090 2pin connectors to hook up the pps, reverse and heater vsv on both my jz swapped cars. Hope I ordered the right stuff.
Still need to find the 4 pin abs connector now.
 
#9 ·
Sidewinder...

The grey connectors. Going from memory (and it is complete crap now a days) I think it is a summitomo connector. The others are Tyco/Amp as per your post. I recall seeing them on Honda Motorcycle harnesses.
 
#10 ·
Thanks alot for the info. Super useful.
Would you happen to know where i can get the smaller terminals for the ecu 170352-1, 170352-2?
I cant seem to find them in stock anywhere and most of the places have a huge minimum order.
I got 100 of the 170353 thinking i could use that for all of em but they only fit in the 10 pin connector.
 
#12 ·
Wisenot,

why did you bump this post of 7 years just to post that?

Why would you use the 7M TCCS on anything not 7m based? Knowing what we know today, priority 1 for anyone making more power than stock is to toss the 7M TCCS. This applies to both N/A and Turbo.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wisenot
#13 ·
I have an 87 turbo, ( original owner!) , Manual Trans. and I was wondering if anyone out there has the following info regarding an ENGINE WIRE HARNESS Fabrication :

1,) A Bill of Materials ( BOM) for each type of connector, Type, Part #, and most important -SUPPLIER of them.
2.) A summary of the length, color & gauge of each wire needed for building a new engine harness so when I place an order for supplies. i know how much I need. I found a great vendor for wire, Pin terminals, and connectors at CORSA Technic
3.) In regard to #2 above- an approximate length to preorder for each color wire. I can judge the length of the OLD wire harness after its removed from the engine bay and ECU.

I know that SOMEONE out there in SUPRA land has to build their own engine harness, and it would sure be great if you would share it with the group. The one place I saw they wanted $1450 for it.! I know I can make it for < $350 in wire & connector parts. Please let me know when you see this post! THANK YOU
 
#14 ·
See my odyssey here Custom wiring harness - questions, suggestions

Doing it RIGHT is more than $350. Lots more. It will take WAY more time and effort than you think. When you buy wire, buy at least 40% more than you think you need - I had to do a 2nd order at prowireusa when I ran out.

I used the rope method to determine wire lengths and junction points. Get some cheap rope and lay it over the engine. Tape segments to it for branches. That way you know how long each branch needs to be, from ECU to the endpoint. Even then, things will change.

Build a spreadsheet for EACH wire. From-To. From my sheet
FunctionSource PinElite NameSpliced IntoRemote PinWire sizeWire colorTotal
Length
Junction
Path

DBW Throttle position signal GNDJCT-ECUJCT-ECUSignal GNDDBWT-218 AWGGY88ECU A B C D E
DBW Throttle position +5VJCT-CJCT-C+5V for sensorsDBWT-318 AWGBU44C D E
DBW Throttle position 1Elite-A16AVI2DBWT-6Shielded 22W-G92ECU A B C D E
DBW Throttle position 2Elite-A17AVI3DBWT-5Shielded 22W-G92ECU A B C D E
DBW motor 1Elite-B25DBW1DBWT-116 AWGW-G92ECU A B C D E
DBW motor 2Elite-B26DBW2DBWT-416 AWGL-B92ECU A B C D E
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Halfwalker
I read your WHOLE long description ,,, WOW !! You are O.C.D. kinda dude!! :) ,
I believe your harness and description are for an MKIV .. correct?
I have a 1987 MKIII, turbo -Targa top version! and I am only a Mechanical Engineer, with Aerospace CATIA design experience.! This looks like an electrical Project engineer's nightmare! I really would like to TALK with you about this project. Can you call me at 972-333-0899 so we can discuss this??? i have too many questions to write here, and take up this forum space!

thank you @
 
#17 ·
that way we have a record that may help other people
Nothing like coming across an ancient forum thread looking for a solution to your niche problem that nobody else seems to have, only to be come across:
"edit: nvm i fixed it" or "hey bill i PM'd you the fix"
and the last edited date was 2001...

Anyway, to add to this thread, if you plan on making modifications or repairs to your wire harness with new terminals, what you can do:
Go here and save an offline copy if you want because it's nice not having to wait for the web browser to download a 7 MB manual from scratch every time.
Go to section D, table of housing shape, then find out what kind of connector you have. Male or female (toyota determines gender by the pins), waterproof or not, number of pins and shape.
In this case, let's say we need the terminals for a W58 reverse switch connector. This is the female side:
Font Circle Rectangle Logo Symbol

CTRL+F and punch in the last five digits (10243) and use CTRL+G to cycle between matching results. You should come to a table:
Font Rectangle Parallel Slope Pattern

Look at the Part No. of Repair Wire column; in this case this is 82998-12090 - go to corsa-technic.com and enter that number in their search box, this will take you straight to the terminal used.
You can also confirm the pin type by the Terminal column, CTRL+F for the terminal type (TODC, 6.3 etc.) and it will eventually take you to a section that shows what the repair wire looks like, with dimensions.
Rectangle Font Parallel Software Number


You can also use any other site that has similar cross-referencing ability, I just used corsa-technic because it's the only one I know that matched everything I needed. At this point you can choose to search for alternative suppliers of the terminal or terminal pin it directs you to, particularly if you have more specific requirements such as tin or gold plating etc. as corsa technic often doesn't have the tin-plated terminals in stock, at least for the ones I needed.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top