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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After battling the wire gremlins, I am starting over with the documentation and making sure that the connections match. Can you guys take a look and help verify? I will use this to rewire and verify everything. There may be mistakes, since I've been cutting and pasting from several sources (which may have been wrong). I've gone through and double-checked the info below. Let me know what ya think and maybe we can finalize it for others to use.

I have a same thread on Supramania... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59181

The info below has been updated with everything through post #5 of that thread on SM.
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Connector/pin/signal info for MKIII dash and 2JZ E9 & E10 ECU -
http://supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=50

Aristo body plug (is really 4 separate connections in one - C, D, E, & F) -
http://www.g099521.net/MKIII/2JZ_SWAP/pinout_test.xls

1JZ Reference docs from Rick's site (zipped) -
http://www.g099521.net/MKIII/2JZ_SWAP/ea21989.zip

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Rick's old site - Has 89+ AND pre-89 detail, now hosted by his son, 92supra1jz

http://www.supra-1jz.us/

1JZ (from JZA70?) & 2JZ (Aristo) ECU Pin-outs (mapped to each other)
www.g099521.net/MKIII/2JZ_SWAP/2JZ1JZecupins.pdf
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1991 Auto to 2JZ/R154 (Aristo ECU/harness) - Walboro FP (yet installed)

M1 PLUG:
Pin #1 R/B wired to W at tranny connector (Reverse lights).
Pin #2 Y wired to B at tranny connector (Reverse lights).
Pin #3 Pink to E10 Pin #2 Pink (SP1, no 1 vehicle speed sensor from trip/odo meter)
Pin #4 B to F12 – Black (body plug) (Taco, Tachometer signal)
Pin #5 not connected
Pin #6 wired to ground
Pin #7 wired to D Pin #1 Y/R (oil level - Body plug) - Will rewire using 7M sender
Pin #8 not connected
Pin #9 wired to E2 black/yellow (body plug) ("W" signal for check engine)
Pin #10 to Pin F9 Y/G (Water temp sender for combination meter) – I am using an aftermarket sender
Pin #11 wired to E10 Pin #15


B1 PLUG:
Pin #1 not connected
Pin #2 not connected
Pin #3 not connected
Pin #4 Green to Pin #29 (C15 – G/W) body plug – FP signal to diag (currently have this grounded so that pump comes one when key is on)
Pin #5 B/L to E10 Pin #31 on ECU connection - A/T coil for circuit opening relay
Pin #6 Y not connected
Pin #8 NSW to cruise control clutch switch (MT)… Don’t have?
Pin #7 R/B to E10 Pin #32 on ECU connection - Plus for circuit opening relay
Pin #9 B/O to E10 Pin #1 on ECU connection - Ignition switch
Pin #10 B/W to Pin #54 (E4 – B/L) body plug - to neutral st. switch
Pin #11 Idle Up signal from A/C amplifier --- Needed? Where to connect?
Pin #12 Theft deterrent horn signal --- Needed? Where to connect?
Pin #13 A/C water temp switch --- Needed? Where to connect?
Pin #14 B/O to E10 Pin #1 on ECU connection
Pin #15 SPD signal for cruise control --- Needed? Where to connect?


B2 PLUG:
Pin #1 Airbag signal check connector --- Where to connect?
Pin #4 R/Y to E10 Pin #15 on ECU connection
Pin #6 Violet to D Pin #5 body plug Grey/red (not needed?)
Pin #7 W to E9 Pin #76 on ECU connection - 'N' signal from A/T indicator S/W
Pin #20 Y/L to E9 Pin #64 on ECU connection - IDL
Pin #2 not connected
Pin #2 not connected

E10 & C1 PLUG:
Pin #24 to C1 Pin #2 (Black/Orange - M-Relay)
  • Body plug has two black/orange wires going to one pin. Soldered them to the big fat wire coming from plug B1 Pin #14
Pin #31 Black/Red = B+ (Connected to C1 Pin #4 & B1 Pin #7)
Pin #32 Black/Red = B1+ (Soldered to C1 Pin #4 & B1 Pin #7)
Pin #33 W/R C1 Pin #1 (Black/Yellow = BATT)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
E10 & C1 PLUG:
Pin #24 to C1 Pin #2 (Black/Orange - M-Relay)
  • Body plug has two black/orange wires going to one pin. Soldered them to the big fat wire coming from plug B1 Pin #14
Pin #31 Black/Red = B+ (Connected to C1 Pin #4 & B1 Pin #7)
Pin #32 Black/Red = B1+ (Soldered to C1 Pin #4 & B1 Pin #7)
Pin #33 W/R C1 Pin #1 (Black/Yellow = BATT)


Can someone confirm the power wires as I have them configured here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hooked everything back up...

Still crank, but no start. The fuel pump stays on after I remove the key and even stayed on after I disconnected the grounded green FP wire on B1.

I had to pull the Main relay to get it to stop. I still can't figure it out.

Car does have an aftermarket alarm and I hadn't removed it yet, since I was gonna have the newer, super-duper one installed and have them pull the old one out. My next step is to remove that alarm and make sure all of the dash connections used, are still intact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dunno... it came w/the car and may even have a turo-timer, keeping signals alive after I remove the key.

Gonna pull it tonight and eliminate it from the equation. I hope it's got some kill switch or something that will let this beeyotch start, once I remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Latest symptoms... Hoping someone sees this and can help me figure things out, since I still think I've got things right, according to the wiring map I posted before.

No check engine light when I first try to start, but after I crank and remove the key, the light comes on and stays on and the FP is still on. They both stay on until I pull the M-Relay to stop the FP (turn off EFI).

Thread on the other forum...
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59181

Ideas? Wild guesses?
 

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E10
#24 is the EFI Main Relay
You sure you have that hooked up correctly?
On my Nissan I had to reconfigure my relays so that they would trigger properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the quick response:

When I had the 99-Supra 2J/VVTi in my '90, I do remember having to hook up an extra relay for something (been a few years, so I don't remember).

I figured that it was something specific to that harness/engine tho. Others are using the same wiring connections I've posted and do not have the additional relay.

I do have that E10 Pin 24 hooked up to the M-Relay wire by the fusebox at the battery.

When I first got the car, the headlights were missing. I replaced 'em with some aftermarket/stock replacements I had, but I found that the passengerside connector looked burnt/shorted. I'll be replacing the connector itself, but aside of pulling the alarm out, I can't find any other obvious wiring issues.
 

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Slo-vertible Drifter
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Hmm...how long did you wait before you pulled the M-EFI relay?
A timer should only last 30 secs, but a crossed wire would keep it running forever.
The Aristo ECU is a bit different then the one listed on the supras.nl site. I remember because I was going to use that for my Aristo swap, but found it wo be just wrong enough to mess me up. I only used E10, E9 and that other plug on the engine harness, so I can't help you with all the other stuff. My only other idea is that maybe you have a constant power to E10 pin one instead of a IGN. E10 pin 31 and 32 those are the switched power from your M-EFI correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I removed the alarm, thinking it had a turbo timer built in, etc. Just stays on for a very long time. After 10-20 minutes I remove/replace the relay to keep it from draining the battery.

I'll check those wires and see... Thanks, much appreciated!!
 

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Slo-vertible Drifter
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"I remove/replace the relay to keep it from draining the battery"

Is there something wrong with your Alt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
"I remove/replace the relay to keep it from draining the battery"

Is there something wrong with your Alt?
I don't think so, but he EFI system seems to stay on, until I do that. So, I am sure that if I left it like that overnight or longer, it would drain the battery. I have a yellowtop, so it's not that big a deal, 'cept for having to wait on a recharge
 

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I was thinking, take your serp belt off and try it again. Maybe you mis-wired your Alt and swapped the IG and S.

Other then that...my car runs (oh, and turns off :p), just cranked it today for the first time.


Vid:

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
:wtf: I hate U!

Just kiddin'.... why's this so hard for me with this swap!?!?

Very good news for you tho, CONRATS! :rockon: :rockon:

Oh, and Google says the vid's unavailable. Hurry up, so we can see it!!!!!

I'll doublechek the alt wiring as well. If I unplug the alt, will it be the same as removing the belt? Since it's singled now, it's much easier to reach down behind the alt and just unplug.
 

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Yeah if you unplug the Alt it will be the same as removing the belt.

The video should work now too. I guess Google has to verify the video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Josh came by and we looked at things for a few hours... I am not insane after all (when it comes to the wiring). Connections are good, but things are still jacked. Gonna pull everything back and rewire/verify from start to finish.
 
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