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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, wanted to post pics of my 140,000 turbo. It's leaking oil and needs a rebuild but I wanted some close inspection from other eyes. Mainly how bad is that crack?
Even with the oil leak still got 8psi of boost but never ran her for more than an hour. Any "Heads Up" information would be cool.





 

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Member *****Supra's
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That crack isn't half bad... it'll cause boost spikes. As far as re builds not sure if they will rebuild with the heat cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
UPDATE - ------------------------------

David, the owner, says it's been used on diesel turbo exhaust manifold cracks with regular success. Just clean and expose some metal, comes with a thinner to get into hairline cracks as well. They sell a kit for $40 plus shipping.

Pyro-Putty® High Temperature Ceramic-Metallic Putties are used to seal joints and repair defects in cast aluminum, cast iron, steel and stainless steel in high temperature applications found in the aerospace, automotive, foundry, heat treating, incineration and power generation industries.

http://www.aremco.com/product/a3/



UPDATE -------------------------

What about High Temperature Ceramic Adhesives & Pastes?

This looks cool

MECHANICAL USES
Catalytic Converters, Ceramic-to-Ceramic, Gasketing/Textiles, Radiant Heaters, Refractory Insulation, Sagger Plates, Threadlocking, Carbon/Graphite

http://www.aremco.com/product/a2/
 

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id say leave itgo or weld it... only with atig welder though. i wouldnt stick anytype of puddy hack job in a crutial part of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For just applying a film like coating to seal hairline cracks around the waste-gate, I can't seem to find fault. We are not talking about bridging a gap here just hairline cracks.

I will also state that if applied correctly, not a hack job - (photo was to show a hole in headers can be fixed), it would be hard to notice after it's been applied and once it reached operating temps.

It is just to keep a hard to find part up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If it works it works and will help people down the road that just need a quick fix.

If cheap bothers some people go elsewhere, this is to get informed that there is a way to fix Cast Iron parts without welding.
Based on what I see online, it's all old info stating "Welding" is the only way. This was invented to address those situations.

And based in the Aerospace Industry, there is a ton of cool products that have yet to cross over, this being one of them.

So what if I'm cheapish, I'm proud of it.

My Supra on a Saturday Night
 

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^^^^^^^^^thank you sir, im right there with ya...im the guy on the right bumper.

i rebuilt my ct using drift motions rebuild kit. straight forward rebuild. mark your compressor wheel very well...other than that, rebuilding the turbo was cake. i found i have 2 cracks a little smaller/shorter than yours but i just left em alone because i didnt want to deal with finding the exhaust housing.

i think it might be worth the trouble to take the housing off when i do the elbow and downpipe. ill give the stuff a try. but oh wait...people on the forum say its a bad idea and my car will blow up...gtfo, listen people, its a wastegate sealing surface...done cheap or done "proper", if it doesnt seal you just loose performance, not the other way around. so whats the bitch about this? are you thinking the gate will glue itself down?

well...i guess when you dont know anything about engines i can see how repair jobs can be fearful..."ohhhh, but what if it leaks again" atleast we tried you twit.

op, id say try and clean that rust off the best you can before anything (obviously). i read a trick that if you soak the area in vinegar itll almost completely dissolve the rust.

let me know how it turns out, it seems like the perfect idea to the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For rust I let it soak in this - http://www.metalrescue.com, used this stuff to bring back a rusted gas tank for my motorcycle, is that cheap?
Or should I have just ordered a 1985 FZ750 gas tank from Yamaha?

Then clean it with air or sand/bead blast if necessary.

The more I read about this stuff the more I can't wait to seal up my turbo!

This says it all!
 
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