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Discussion Starter #1
I am so disappointed....This must be the worst BPU+ dyno ever...353 RWHP corrected 383 RWTQ. I dynoed 3 weeks back with the following mods:

94TT sequential, 49K miles, 6 speed

new NGK-R plugs gapped .032 for BPU
track fuse pulled
Greddy Airninx
RMM DP + random tech High flow cat (should only rob like 10-15 HP)
Greddy PE Exhaust
Profec A (heard it was shit for Sequential but could it cause a loss of 50 rwhp?
Greddy FMIC and piping
Greddy BOV-R
Superchips ECU
Greddy BCC

I just recently did the 12V mod and 2 Step Phillip long (does nothing for peak HP)and the semi-TCC...car doesn't seem much stronger at all.

I am about to do a compression test...why the awful dyno? What could be wrong with it? Could the superchips ECU which was reprogramed to by pass fuel cut be messing up the signals to the BCC? I really expected to come in at 400 RWHP min and maybe see 430 rwhp....HELP!

Also how do I upload the dyno chart?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also had 94 octane and ice on the IC piping but it was only 40 degrees out anyways. Uncorrected was 383 rwhp. But doesn't EVERYONE speak corrected?
 

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Your ECU may be retarding timing. Check your compression to make sure it isn't actually too high. My old BPU car made similar numbers to yours and my compression came back sky high (meaning substantial carbon buildup). I ran crappy gas (92 octane) at the time, and my graph was quite jagged. Either that or check for boost leaks as something is definitely not right.

Steve
 

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There is some type of carbon removal machine that many large repair shops have. Although I've never seen one personally or had it done to any of my cars, I understand they work pretty darn well (from friends who have) and your car will run much differently when they're done (meaning better of course). This should be all that is needed to remove carbon deposits and bring the compression back down to it's normal levels.

Steve

Originally posted by Long:
What can you do to get rid of the carbon buildup?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Think my Superchips ECU could have the timing retarded too much?

I always run 93 octane but it may have run on <93 by the previous owner due to the availibility. Any idea how much the carbon removal thing costs? Would Toyota have it?

Also for the 353 rwhp I had my Profec A set to 1.4 bar (20.5 psi) but I only saw 18 psi and it fell from [email protected] rpm to like 16.5 by redline. I think the Profec A with it's fuzzy logic is partially responsible but sounds like I need a compression test/carbon removal.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am going to swap out the Superchips ECU for a stock 95TT ECU..maybe the BCC is not working with the Superchips ECU since they both try to do the same thing. Maybe the superchips ECU is retarding the timing like you said.

Also when I dynoed I saw puffs of black come out of the exhaust (unburnt gas/carbon)...maybe I am really running rich too. Did you ever get your BPU back to 400rwhp levels?

I also just did the semi-TTC mod (cut wire #2)...it's laggy down low as I see a quick spike to 1 bar then back to .5 bar and then by 4200 or so I am at 1.3 bar. I probably gained HP up top but average HP may have dropped. I may go back to sequential.

Thanks,
Isaac
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My crummy dyno....any thoughts just by looking at it? The higher run was set by pushing the over boost on the Profec A what hit ~18.5 psi and then fell to 16.5 at redline

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here is it....

 
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Did you reset your ECU prior to your first pull. Also, that curve looks pretty rough. I'm pretty certain you were experiencing timing retard triggered by knock. Your compression may be too high, or maybe your intercooler needs cleaning (probably not the primary cause at those 40deg temps).
 
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Isaac, what's up man! man, you shoulda told me you were going to the dyno, i've been wanting to go too. Anyway, you might want to check for a boost leak, that's the first thing i would check. I can hold 18psi to redline with no problems. BPU cars typically run very rich, that explains all the black smoke puffing out, but a boost leak will cause it to run alot richer. Also, did you reset your ecu prior to the run? Next time, reset the ecu and throw some race gas in, that should smooth out your dyno chart. See what numbers you can pull then. If you head to the dyno in the coming weeks, drop me a line, i'll go with you, we'll get that puppy up to 400rwhp in no time. ;) What was the correction anyway? 0.92? why was the correction so low? we're pretty much at sealevel and the 2X degee difference from standard temp. wouldn't invoke such a low correction factor. Maybe he punched some data in wrong? or his gauges are messed up.

BTW, i thought you sold your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
<<Isaac, what's up man! man, you shoulda told me you were going to the dyno, i've been wanting to go too. Anyway, you might want to check for a boost leak, that's the first thing i would check. I can hold 18psi to redline with no problems. BPU cars typically run very rich, that explains all the black smoke puffing out, but a boost leak will cause it to run alot richer. Also, did you reset your ecu prior to the run? Next time, reset the ecu and throw some race gas in, that should smooth out your dyno chart. See what numbers you can pull then. If you head to the dyno in the coming weeks, drop me a line, i'll go with you, we'll get that puppy up to 400rwhp in no time. What was the correction anyway? 0.92? why was the correction so low? we're pretty much at sealevel and the 2X degee difference from standard temp. wouldn't invoke such a low correction factor. Maybe he punched some data in wrong? or his gauges are messed up.
BTW, i thought you sold your car?

--------------------

Lester
95tt


Hey Lester whats up! No I decided to keep my car...at least for the time being...a long story. Anyways the reason for the big correction factor was probably because it was like 35 degrees out. I out down 383 actual but 353 corrected.

I never set the ECU...to do that do you basically just unplug the wire harness? I am swapping out my Superchips ECU this week for a 95TT ECU...hopefully that will help.

Also I think I need to sell my Profec A and get a better boost controller...what do you recommend? Also how do you detect a boost leak?

Also I just did the semi-TTC mod...not sure if I like it or not yet.

Do you know where we can get some race gas around here? I can't find anything higher than 94 octane and I sure don't want to spend $50 on 30- 16 ounce cans of octane booster.

After I add the stock ECU and a crank pulley this week I will be up for dynoing perhaps in 2 weeks...interested?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did you reset your ECU prior to your first pull. Also, that curve looks pretty rough. I'm pretty certain you were experiencing timing retard triggered by knock. Your compression may be too high, or maybe your intercooler needs cleaning (probably not the primary cause at those 40deg temps).

Nice black TT! Healthy numbers. Are you running sequential set-up? Car looks real clean.

Nope I didn't reset the ECU...next time I will. I guess I will get a compression test...what should the car be at...8.5:1 I bet I am much higher. What would be a way to lower it? BTW, how do you clean the IC? Do I need to uninstall anything?
 

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It looks like you're having Timing retard... Get rid of that Superchips ECU!!!

It's obvious there's a Problem when you get Peak Power at 4500.
Your Peak power should be around 5600 for a BPU car.

[ March 13, 2001: Message edited by: MADMKIV ]
 
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Isaac, drop me a line when you dyno. to reset the ecu just pull out the EF1&2 fuses in the main fuse box. Leave them out for 30sec.
The boost controller I like is the HKS EZ or the Blitz Dual solenoid. I have the Apex AVC-R, its ok, a little complex but it gets the job done.
You can get race gas in Manassas at C&C automotive, its right off Rt. 28. Maybe we can swing by there before we dyno and pick some up.
I'm not a big fan of the semi-ttc, to me, it seems like an easy way to burn out your second turbo.
Also, i'd advise against the crank pulley. its been known to cause many, many problems since it disposes of the harmonic dampener which toyota thgought was necessary. plus, it gains very little hp for such a high risk.

[ March 13, 2001: Message edited by: NOVAsupra ]
 

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Discussion Starter #16
<<It looks like you're having Timing retard... Get rid of that Superchips ECU!!!
It's obvious there's a Problem when you get Peak Power at 4500.
Your Peak power should be around 5600 for a BPU car.

MADMKIV,

The car on the 3rd run with the over boost setting on the Profec A set to 1.3 bar hit peak at like 5200 but thats still way low. I am getting a stock ECU off a 95TT put in tomorrow. Hopefully that should help.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
SUPERCHIPS ECU

Heres what superchips website said about your car, and what they did. They
also have a 800 number to call to find a local dealer/installer...i'd call,
and see if they would undo what they did, or trade u for a stock ECU...


CALL: 1-800-898-CHIP

(ENTER EXTENSION #2001)

Supra Twin Turbo
When we modified this car we found that it was too powerful for our chassis
dyno and simply climbed out! All of the tests had to be done on
low power on the dyno and then carried on through full power testing on the
test track. Turning the boost up from 11 - 12 PSI to 17 PSI made
traction control on this car essential, especially for our test drivers. The
car rockets away up to 4000 RPM where it would seem that the
massive acceleration should be start to diminish, but that's when the second
turbo cuts in and the wild ride starts all over again.

When modified these cars are some of the fastest vehicles we have ever
driven, here or in Europe, and they are excellent value for money.
The 0 - 60 time with the traction control on was 4.75 seconds showing a near
1 second change in 0-60 time and we think that a good driver
with excellent tires could do it in under 4 seconds! The computer limits the
top speed and it can be switched out, but when it is, the traction
control is switched out as well so you gain one and lose the other. Contact
us for further details on exactly how to do it. Do not forget the tires
need to be rated to over 160 MPH.

The conversion consists of replacement circuitry, which must be fitted at
Superchips Inc, so unfortunately the computer box has to be sent in
direct. Once we receive the computer we will make the upgrade and send it
back out overnight. The kit also includes a valve to be fitted
under the hood. The valve is used to adjust the boost pressure and if it is
removed, which is a 5 minute job, then the boost pressure is set
back to stock.

Peter Welles Hahn
 

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I'll bet the Superchips ECU mod is nothing more than some form of BCC/FCD modification to the ECU. I really doubt the Fuel/Timing maps get touched at all.

Your problems lie elsewhere, too little octane probably. You should dyno again with 100+ in the tank and see what happens before you go off the deep end in a panic ;).

PS, please, please try and crop that dyno graph down, it's a real pain to read the thread scrolling from side to side. Maybe you could just post a link...?

[ March 14, 2001: Message edited by: Lagtime ]
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Chip,

Sorry the jpg is a bitch to read unless you have a huge monitor. Let me recrop. I will put in 100 octane next run and use a HKS EVC-EZ instead of the Profec A...thanks for the advice!
 

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Remember...


Originally posted by MADMKIV:

It's obvious there's a Problem when you get Peak Power at 4500.
Your Peak power should be around 5600 for a BPU car.

Your power above 4500 is a problem it looks like some kind of timing retard caused by a possible agressive timing map that causes detonation. Superchips might of re-programmed your ignition maps.
 
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