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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK.
Our supras have.(On the stock Turbo...)
*An oil flange with a separate Inlet line and corresponding hole as well as a drain.
*A coolant flange with an oblong opening as coolant just gets pushed in and sucked out.

This T04b Turbo kit has what appears to be an oil dump. (Square hole on bottom)
and a threaded port for either oil or coolant that is not divorced. Just ONE port on the opposite side.


Is this thing meant to run on OIL alone? WTF?
This came in a kit I won off of Ebay that has a stainless manifold,HKS SSBOV,50mm wastegate,Godspeed FMIC and this friggin thing.

I don't think I am missing anything. Can someone please confirm for me?
If I have to buy another turbo I've got to know fast.
 

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When cars say, "NO MORE!"
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most aftermarket turbos are cooled with oil only as in this case. You use the small port on top for the oil feed and the bottom is the oil return line. You cap off the coolant lines. This is all normal.
 

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Supra Fan
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yes that turbo is oil cooled only. Loop the stock turbo coolant lines together. DO NOT plug them, loop them thats all.


I hope you plan on changing out the exhaust side of that turbo unless you plan on spooling at 6k rpms.
 

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LEADED FUEL ONLY
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Useless?? (aside from the huge turbine housing)

Run it with oil only. That's not a bad thing. MOST mk4 singles are running oil only. You should look into getting the NA coolant bypass setup for a totaly stock look.

Run a 1/8NPt to -3 or-4 oil feed, and a flange on the oil drain.
 

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Useless? That is a completely USEFUL turbo if you ask me.

DO NOT cap off the water lines on the motor though. Run one into the other so that coolant still flows as it should. The 7M does not like to have those capped off for some strange reason.

Oil cooled turbos are fine. I ran three different ones at one point or another. I actually preferred them. Less fittings, less lines, less clutter, less to go wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok. My concern is not with the fact that it does not have coolant lines..but that the Exhaust housing is Ridiculously large
 
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So get a smaller one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Then that means that I would have to change the wheel as well right?
I'd rather get a larger turbo.
It's almost embarassing to get back into this as heavily as I am.
My exhaust housing has an A/R of 1.15. the Intake is like .68..I get the jist of what this means but that's about it.
I don't know what A/R I should be shooting for to accomplish what I want.
Now that I am doing serious modding and spending the dough to go with it I have my sights set on 500 HP.

I'd love to say that I have a clue as to what turbo I should get to accomplish this but I've been out of the game for so long that the game has been reinvented time and time again.
 

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Yes A/R of 1.15 is good for a rotary or a diesel. Way too big for a supra.

To change the A/R you do NOT have to change the wheel. A .68 front side is ok, just get around a .70 or so for the hot side. Maybe even a little bit smaller. You will have what you are looking for with that setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
With that said..
Should I order one online or find a local shop?
I have given myself a deadline of the 16th to get this thing running as I wanted to make a Supra meet here.
 

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On a side note most people say don't buy those kits because you are looking into putting a ton of money into them to get them to fit/work right.

Good luck though.

Someone else bought something like that and posted saying it took him weeks to get it on and cost about $900-1000 more to have everything go as should. However that might've been shop labor to, I'm not sure.
 

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LEADED FUEL ONLY
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Measure the wheel so you know what wheel you have. Then order an appropriate turbine housing. When I say measure the wheel, you will need a set of calipers to do so as those wheels are manufactured with in a few tenths of each other. Your tape measure isn't going to cut it on this one. While you're at it, might as well measure the intake wheel as well. Just so you know exactly what you have.

Here's a link for your compressor wheels (garrett brand).

http://64.225.76.178/catalog/comp_wheels.html

Here's a link for your turbine wheels.

http://64.225.76.178/catalog/twheel.html

FYI, Inducer is the first part of the wheel that air will touch. On the comp side, its the part furthest away from the CHRA. On the hot side, its the part closest to the CHRA.
 

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Boost Dealer
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EMAIL ME. I might have just the trick for you. I need you to measure the big and
small sizes of the exhaust wheel. I have a .70 housing, and if the wheel measurements
are the same... :cool:.


Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
aljordan said:
Measure the wheel so you know what wheel you have. Then order an appropriate turbine housing. When I say measure the wheel, you will need a set of calipers to do so as those wheels are manufactured with in a few tenths of each other. Your tape measure isn't going to cut it on this one. While you're at it, might as well measure the intake wheel as well. Just so you know exactly what you have.

Here's a link for your compressor wheels (garrett brand).

http://64.225.76.178/catalog/comp_wheels.html

Here's a link for your turbine wheels.

http://64.225.76.178/catalog/twheel.html

FYI, Inducer is the first part of the wheel that air will touch. On the comp side, its the part furthest away from the CHRA. On the hot side, its the part closest to the CHRA.
I've still got all my Mics and calipers from my machining days..I think I got it handled.

You mentioned "Tenths"..
a tenth is .0001
Are they manufactured that closely? If so I will have to use Micrometers as calipers aren't that accurate. If calipers will suffice then it's gravy.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Trent said:
Useless? That is a completely USEFUL turbo if you ask me.

DO NOT cap off the water lines on the motor though. Run one into the other so that coolant still flows as it should. The 7M does not like to have those capped off for some strange reason.

Oil cooled turbos are fine. I ran three different ones at one point or another. I actually preferred them. Less fittings, less lines, less clutter, less to go wrong.

I have heard this but I think something is amiss with the people that have that problem. I Plugged mine and never had a problem at all. Think people have other issues and feel that the lack of turbo water cooling is causing a problem.

I am running oil cooled only, and you only need to get a exhaust housing in the AR that you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
tookwik4u89 said:
FYI, a tenth is .1, .0001 is a ten thousandth
You must have never been a Machinist.
In the trade a tolerance of .1 is nonexistant..
"This is about 3 tenths off"" means .0003
 

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LEADED FUEL ONLY
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Hmm. machinist's have it all wrong then. :)

A tenth is a tenth of an inch or .01, a hundredth is a hundred of an inch, or .01, a thousandth is one thousandth of an inch or .001. A ten thousandth of an inch is .0001.

I would hope you'd not have a tolerance of 'a tenth' (.01). That's a mile when dealing with precision machinery.

Only thing I could think of as to why they would call a ten thousandth a tenth would be just for conveinece. Just truncate it off since it'll never happen.
 
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