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Discussion Starter #1
i cant figure out what the hell is wrong with my car. its a 95 tt 6spd with the auto ecu in it currently. im haveing that problem when i get boost around 4000rpm and it breaks up. it breaks up and causes my boost to spike.
the usual fix lately is to get new clips for the coil packs. well i have a new engine harness in the car so i dont think its that. i also gaped the plugs down to .27 and it helped a lil bit and got worse again. what seems to help is resting the ecu. when i do that, i can usually get a couple of pulls before it starts acting up.

i know that the ecu learns, and also goes into i guess "safe mode" when shit acts up. im out of ideas. i have a 6spd ecu, but when i put it in, i get ! light and throws a code -13-. but the auto ecu doesnt.

i am out of ideas, please help.
 

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Sooooooo JDM
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1,221 Posts
Argh...just troubleshot a car a month or so ago with a code 13. If you have spare sensors (or a buddy who has an extra set) try this:

Check valve timing. Pull the coil cover off and make sure the notches in the cam gears line up with the backing plate notches when the crank notch is aligned with zero. If it looks WAY off, rotate the crank one more time to zero (7/8 1/2" socket will do)

Check your ECM ground wires. One towards the front of the intake, one towards the rear on near the dipstick. Make sure they are tight and corrosion free.

Check resistance on the cam/crank sensors. IIRC, it's around 1450-1800 OHMS for a good one. I don't have the book in front of me, if you need the exact numbers, let me know.

Swap crank sensor

Swap cam sensors (they are a PITA with the manifold on)

Pull the intake valve cover and physically check the two CPS teeth on the camshaft itself. This was the problem with the car I worked on due to some assclown dropping a valve cover bolt inside and buttoning it back up.

Saved the best for last :D Pull the crank pulley off, T-belt, crank gear retainer bolt and crank gear off. Check the backing plate that triggers the crank position sensor. A tiny little tab prevents the wheel from spinning. It's probably spun if all else above was good.

I know you've got a new harness, but if *all else* fails: use a paperclip to jump the crank sensor harness pins and check resistance on the other end. Do the same for the cam position sensors.

Lemme know how it pans out :cool:

Ryan
 

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907 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the info ryan. i just did the belt and timing gear recently, so its not that. the ground idea is good. i recently painted the entire engine bay and might have weak grounds.
ill check all the resistances on the sensors and coils this weekened when i go down to the shop. i really want to get all these porblems straightened out befor i go single.

also, just got an idea. is there a way to check the status of the sensors through the aem. i have one i plan on putting in soon and thought i might be able to do a basic diagnosis with it. hmmmm

if anybody else has any other ideas, please let me know. its going to tommoro. thansk
 

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907 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
found the problem. pulled the valve covers off and saw the tab on the cam broken off. thats why i got the 13 caode. if anyone has a intake cam laying around, please let me know
 

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LexusTico
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3,172 Posts
ouch dude how did you break that tab off? did it break while in the engine? did you still have the little tab sitting on top of the head? you're pretty lucky if it was just sitting there and didn't do any damage to anything. i'd still do an oil change quick though if it broke in there, you might have some tiny bits of metal from the cam in your oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well the car has been acting up for a long time now, maybe even since i got it(2yrs). i swaped cams between motors when i first got the car. it might of already been broken off then. idk. i just want to get it fixed and get the car running right finaly.
 
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