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Ah, yes....nice to be in a supra again. Had to mk2s, sold them both to get a better car, and now I am in a '91 turbo. Found an auto with 89K miles, for $6,000. :) Very happy now.

Just wanted to let you all know, that I am FINALLY back in the supra family (after about 2 years).

Couple question for peoples who may know more about autos and mk3s.........The sport suspension button, can you really feel the difference between normal and sport? Does the ert really work as well as its supposed to?
Whats the approx 1/4 mile time? Hope to take it to the track soon, but as I just dropped 6 grand on a car, I may wait till spring when its warm before I start to add mods........oh yeah, what are some quick cheap mods I can do?


I know more that I should about these cars, but Im new to the mk3, and I am sure there are tried and true methods out there worth mentioning. THanks guys.
 

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grankor said:
Ah, yes....nice to be in a supra again. Had to mk2s, sold them both to get a better car, and now I am in a '91 turbo. Found an auto with 89K miles, for $6,000. :) Very happy now.

Just wanted to let you all know, that I am FINALLY back in the supra family (after about 2 years).

Couple question for peoples who may know more about autos and mk3s.........The sport suspension button, can you really feel the difference between normal and sport? Does the ert really work as well as its supposed to?
Whats the approx 1/4 mile time? Hope to take it to the track soon, but as I just dropped 6 grand on a car, I may wait till spring when its warm before I start to add mods........oh yeah, what are some quick cheap mods I can do?


I know more that I should about these cars, but Im new to the mk3, and I am sure there are tried and true methods out there worth mentioning. THanks guys.
Did you buy that *mint* mk3 ... White w/ Blue leather ... loaded ... that was forsale on EBAY?

I'm not a fan of TEMS (Toyota Electronically Modulated Suspension) ... I don't have it and I dson't remember if I could tell the difference when I drove some other mk3s that have it.

Approximate, completely stock turbo mk3, 1/4 mile is a low 15.

There are some quick/easy/cheap, yet effective, mods that have been discovered over the years that I could link to ... and I also could give you some ideas for more costly/very well done mods.

BUT ... I have no idea about what you want out of the car for power,handling, 1/4 mile times/mph, etc etc.

If you tell us what you want out of the car then we can help you figure out how to get it that way.

Congrats and good luck.
 

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for me the TEMS works. you can notice when its in 'sports' mode, that the ride is more stiffer, dont like it in 'normal' mode, it feels to loose for me :rolleyes:
 

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There is a difference between ECT power mode, and ECT normal. The shift points are higher under medium to moderate load in the "power mode". So if you're going up a hill its more likely to downshift in "power" than in normal -- and when it does downshift, it doesn't upshift as easily (I hate when your transmission keeps going back and forth between drive and overdrive -- this does a better job keeping it in one gear). Of course the best way to deal with it, is to use the selector and leave it in L, 2, D, or OD depending on what speed you are going
 
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All stock right now.

No, not the *mint* car on ebay :p

Mine is red with black interior. Saw it at a dealership as I was driving to work, so I had to get it.

I'm going to get before shots, and stock 1/4 mile times before I do any modifications, so I can kinda track what I am doing, and see what it does.

Definately going to make her go faster. Isnt that what everyone wants? :)

As far as handling goes, I'll put a suspension on and the frame & strut bars. Don't think I'm going to need much more than that for my purposes. Eventually, I might get squirrly and add an on-board cpu with a screen up front....mostly for mp3s and ripped dvds.

Ill put some pics up, and post links to them so I can SHOW you my car. :)
 

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alphaoenz said:
I thought only 92's came with charcoal grey interior?
me too, myabe dude got a 92 instead of a 91:)
 

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grankor said:
All stock right now.

No, not the *mint* car on ebay :p
Stock is a good platform, but it will get boring quicly;) . Ah, too bad it wasn't the car I was talking about, but it sounds very similar.

Mine is red with black interior. Saw it at a dealership as I was driving to work, so I had to get it.
Glad to hear that well kept versions are still/occasionally popping up at dealerships.

I'm going to get before shots, and stock 1/4 mile times before I do any modifications, so I can kinda track what I am doing, and see what it does.
Sounds wise and useful for many different reasons. Also, get some runs on the dyno in stock form.:D ;)

Definately going to make her go faster. Isnt that what everyone wants? I just dropped 6 grand on a car, I may wait till spring when its warm before I start to add mods........oh yeah, what are some quick cheap mods I can do?
I was trying to determine if you want to put a lot of money/6k-10k + into the car or just do some mods for under 1k/really "cheap" like sometimes less than 100$, that will get you good performace. It would help to know what you want for a 1/4 mile time/mph, power numbers, etc. There is a lot of aftermarket for the turbo mk3, so I was hoping to pinpoint an area of it that you may want to look into first. We can give you better info if you are more specific.

As far as handling goes, I'll put a suspension on and the frame & strut bars. Don't think I'm going to need much more than that for my purposes.
Sounds good. I would scrap the TEMS if I were you, but is just IMO. I like my KYB shocks and struts with eibach springs set-up. Tein/HKS/Tockico/many others all make good stuff.

What kind of wheels are you interested in? Weight, diameter, width, etc? The factory mk4TT and mk4NA wheels, FD rx-7 wheels(13.5lbs), a few other popular wheels that could be mentiones are the same bolt patter but they may have slight rubbing issues on your front lower control arms near full truning lock. This rubbing can be fixed by adjusting steering bump stops.

Ill put some pics up, and post links to them so I can SHOW you my car.
Good stuff. Thanks. We'll enjoy it.
 

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Loks like a beauty.

Now, read my above post and reply to it ;).
 
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*cracks knuckles* aight, a respond on the way :)


AWIDESUPIE said:
Stock is a good platform, but it will get boring quicly;) . Ah, too bad it wasn't the car I was talking about, but it sounds very similar.


I agree, I was very happy with the 7m-gte. Wanted to put one in my mk2 originally, but decided that the cost/time factor wasnt really worth it. I decided to hold out for an mk3. Glad I did.


Sounds wise and useful for many different reasons. Also, get some runs on the dyno in stock form.:D ;)
Luckily, there is a shop within 2 miles of my house that has a dyno. Only down side, these are mostly domestic guys who drive camaros, vettes, malibus, and...well, ya know. The whole import thing. always worth a shot tho :)


I was trying to determine if you want to put a lot of money/6k-10k + into the car or just do some mods for under 1k/really "cheap" like sometimes less than 100$, that will get you good performace. It would help to know what you want for a 1/4 mile time/mph, power numbers, etc. There is a lot of aftermarket for the turbo mk3, so I was hoping to pinpoint an area of it that you may want to look into first. We can give you better info if you are more specific.
Well, not 100% sure, I work on commision, and next spring I am going to buy a house, so right now anything cheap is better than nothing. 1/4 I'd be happy with a high 13, maybe 14. Don't really give a poo about the HP, cause all the horses in the world doesnt mean crap is it can't perform. (Kinda like the whole obsession with people's weight, doesnt matter as long as you are in good shape)


Sounds good. I would scrap the TEMS if I were you, but is just IMO. I like my KYB shocks and struts with eibach springs set-up. Tein/HKS/Tockico/many others all make good stuff.
I agree here, I had some aftermarket stuff on a cavalier I riced and raced. Good stuff. The only think I am liking about the TEMS is that I can have a stiffer ride, or I can change to smooth ride without having to crawl under the car and adjusting the springs. Although I found some tires that I loved! They are some odd company called federals. They make a 40 series tire that rides really nice, and is great in the weather.

What kind of wheels are you interested in? Weight, diameter, width, etc? The factory mk4TT and mk4NA wheels, FD rx-7 wheels(13.5lbs), a few other popular wheels that could be mentiones are the same bolt patter but they may have slight rubbing issues on your front lower control arms near full truning lock. This rubbing can be fixed by adjusting steering bump stops.
Haven't looked too much at wheels yet. The rims have a little oxidazation near the edges. I think the stocks tires are 255/50/16 the width works for me, and I like 50's over 40's cause the ride is smoother. I'll probably go with some 17" rims....not sure they'll fit with the 50s......also plan on dropping her an inch or two....

Good stuff. Thanks. We'll enjoy it.
glad to be back in the family again. :cool:
 
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SoupedUpSupra said:
DAMMMMMMMMNNNNN. thats the cleanest mk3 ever!!! The engine bay!!! drool!!!!!!!!
That's why I had to get it :p
 

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I agree, I was very happy with the 7m-gte. Wanted to put one in my mk2 originally, but decided that the cost/time factor wasnt really worth it. I decided to hold out for an mk3. Glad I did.
MK2 w/7mgte = ownage. BUT ... I like the mk3/a70 body a lot better, regardless of the weight.

Luckily, there is a shop within 2 miles of my house that has a dyno. Only down side, these are mostly domestic guys who drive camaros, vettes, malibus, and...well, ya know. The whole import thing. always worth a shot tho
Good that you have a nearby dyno because that is going to sooooo helpful with tuning for the rest of the time you own that car. DYNO TUNING IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING THAT YOU COULD EVER DO TO INSURE EFFICIENCY/RELIABILITY FROM YOU CAR. Hop on that dyno with pride, who cares about if domestics "hate" on you? When you get some good mods, you will be beating a lot of them ... and your car should have problems about half as much as most of theirs do.

Well, not 100% sure, I work on commision, and next spring I am going to buy a house, so right now anything cheap is better than nothing. 1/4 I'd be happy with a high 13, maybe 14. Don't really give a poo about the HP, cause all the horses in the world doesnt mean crap is it can't perform. (Kinda like the whole obsession with people's weight, doesnt matter as long as you are in good shape)
See next post for this reply ;).

I agree here, I had some aftermarket stuff on a cavalier I riced and raced. Good stuff. The only think I am liking about the TEMS is that I can have a stiffer ride, or I can change to smooth ride without having to crawl under the car and adjusting the springs. Although I found some tires that I loved! They are some odd company called federals. They make a 40 series tire that rides really nice, and is great in the weather.
Cavalier = NOT good stuff IMO :D .
My KYB STRUT AND SHOCK with Eibach spring combo is gentle enough/smooth ride with the low center of gravity and turning/road-hugguing-stiffness that I need. I like it a lot for a DD set-up.

Haven't looked too much at wheels yet. The rims have a little oxidazation near the edges. I think the stocks tires are 255/50/16 the width works for me, and I like 50's over 40's cause the ride is smoother. I'll probably go with some 17" rims....not sure they'll fit with the 50s......also plan on dropping her an inch or two....
The mkTT wheels are 17inch ... there is a lot of aftermarket ... sky is the limit so get whatever you like. Although the 5 spoke stocker do not look nearly as bad as the "sawblades" (<--- '86.5-'90 wheels) and they are good "sleeper" wheels, you may want some wider tires/wheels with more power to the ground.

glad to be back in the family again.
Glad to have you back. The mk3 is probably "a whole different ball game" though, as is almost every car when you consider the complexities.
 

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Well, not 100% sure, I work on commision, and next spring I am going to buy a house, so right now anything cheap is better than nothing. 1/4 I'd be happy with a high 13, maybe 14. Don't really give a poo about the HP, cause all the horses in the world doesnt mean crap is it can't perform. (Kinda like the whole obsession with people's weight, doesnt matter as long as you are in good shape)
Ok. You are in about the same boat as I am. I am going to be getting a new truck and a new bike and I want some good power but don't want to spend a whole lot at this time. Eventually I will be completely re-building the car but it will be a while.

Minimum:

Make sure the motor/motor components is/are running up to factory specifications and that the HG has been retorqued to 75+ ftlbs or that it has been replaced by a metal head gasket (<--with the head/block machined if MHG) or both.
Run good fluids in everything. I would say to run all synthetic fluids. Good fluids in our car would be from Amsoil, Redline, and Mobil 1. Make sure that you have no leaks. You may also want to run a PCV bypass to an oil-catch-can so that there wont be a lot of oil in your intercooling system. Check out www.suprasport.com , www.mvpmotorsports.com , www.suprastore.com ... many others for good products.

300+ crank HP and mid to high maybe even low 13 1/4mile times with a good driver:

First:Guages: Get a boost guage good for PAST 15 PSI. Get an EGT guage tapped into the #6 exhaust manifold runner (closest to firewall). Get an Air/Fuel guage. Possibly get a wideband 02 for precise tuning ( BUT ... your local dyno/tuning shop should have one for when you dyno tune ... so you may not want to pay for one for now).

Next: Exhaust: Most expensive power mod will be full 3+inch exhaust from your turbo all the way back. Include a muffler and a high flow catalytic cnverter if you want to pass smog. I reccomend going custom for the exhaust piping. Random Technologies makes good high flow cats and there are a bunch of good mufflers. Check out the websites I mentioned for good products.

Next: Intake: Cheapest intake is a factory drop in with a
modified/cut stock air box .
I am fairly sure that you can figure out how to modify the box, but ask if you need to. ITG filters are by far the best flowing and filtering filters produced in the world, currently (*I don't want to have a bunch of comments on this because I don't want the thread hijacked )... believe me or not, they are the best ... but it isn't always necessary to have the best because other filters such as K&N filter and flow "fine").
ITG filter site
Purchase ITG filters from Coast Fabrication

Many other companies make drop-ins and entire kits for our car like amsoil/k&n/apexi/hks etc. Check the websites I mentoined above for product listings.

Next: Intercooler pipes: The stock intercooler is good, flawlessly, for around 400+hp ... but not everyone believes it except for the guys that are doing it. There are enough flow tests and guys doing it to be confident that the stock IC is good for 400+hp.
See the following link to ONE (of plenty) guy's mk3 running the stock intercooler with the intercooler pipes that we are going to talk about. The intercooler pipes write-up that we will be talking about was made by this guy:
John Lunsford at 7mpower.com.
The following is the link to the PVC intercooler pipe write-up that will cost about 40$ tops (compare that to the 400+$ kits sold) and it will flow 400+HP guaranteed and not only withstand the heat but lower your EGTs better than the more expensive metal kits. <--- It is the same thing with the people who doubt the stock intercooler ... many don't believe in it, but it works flawlessly. (*I don't want to have a bunch of comments on this because I don't want the thread hijacked). You need to make sure that you get the correct temperature treated PVC and follow directions " to the 'T' ". <--- If you do then it will be flawless and you will be very pleased.JBLMK3 PVC IC pipe write-up FOR ONE STOCK INTERCOOLER. <--- Follow this link and you will see other links within it to get parts needed and a sectioned write-up.

Want to run the same PVC IC pipe write-up FOR 2 STOCK INTERCOOLERS FOR BETTER COOLING AND HP NUMBERS ? <--- Click that link.

Next: Cheapest way to increase boost:
Shim the waste gate.
You will want to shim the waste gate to increase boost as much as you can until you hit "Fuel Cut" (<---which really should be called "spark cut" becasue it cuts plug spark, not fuel). Fuel cut will come on at about 12 psi because the signal coming from your afm(air fuel meter ... thing behind the intake box and before the plastic accordian hose that goes to your turbo) will tell the TCCS(Toyota Computer Control System) that it is letting in too much air in and that your motor could be running lean so it cuts spark to keep you from running too hot/lean and from consequently "blowing up" your engine. "Fuel Cut" is a very good safety precaution for our motors, the only problem is that it hinders performance via high boost levels.

At this point, at around 11-12psi you should be running about 280-290 crank HP/340 crank torque. Next we will talk about raising boost to the full, yet safe, potential of the stock turbo/fuel system by raising the "Fuel Cut" with the stock AFM.

Next: See Raising "Fuel Cut" with stock AFM and continue reading below.

Basically all that you do is utilize the stock adjustbale screw on the stock 7mgte AFM to allow air into the AFM system through the "extra AFM tunnel". Many people get the misconception that the AFM is now sucking in more air ... but it is sucking in the same amount of air. Since the air is now being sucked through the "extra tunnel" , it is "sneaking by" the Karmam Vortex meter that meters air in the AFM. The Karman Vortex meter measure air FREQUENCY, NOT MASS. So, you get to suck in the same amount (mass) of air that you were before at that boost level ... BUT ... the meter doesn't read the same FREQUENCY at that boost level because the air is dispersed past the meter. BUT, as you raise the boost by shimming the wastegate more, there will be a point (preferably sometime after 15psi if you adjust the screw properly) that you will hit "Fuel Cut" again becasue the AFM will once again be metering the FREQUENCY signal that triggers "Fuel Cut".

Also, another good thing to do to the AFM to help with flow/higher fuel cut assurance is porting and polishing which can be done by yourself for fairly cheap.

In this thread that I linked to above, you will notice that this is a somewhat "touchy" thing to do without fuel upgrades ... BUT ... it can be run flawlessly with the proper tuning. You, especially, should find this more convenient to do since you have a dyno/tuning shop near your home.

The turbo is safely run at 15psi. Owners have said that they mostly encountered stock turbo problems from boost elevated past 15psi.

The fuel injectors have been mapped to have flow for over 400HP AT 100% DUTY AND AT 100% EFFICIENCY. I do not know what the highest potential power numbers are that the stock fuel pump should be good for, but I know it can be run, with this et-up, with careful tuning.

*I am not saying that the stock fuel will not work fine for this set-up, untuned, but it shoud be tuned to insure effectiveness. Get it tuned at that local dyno shop near you (or whichever you think is best to tune at) and it should be fine. Worst case scenario should be that, it isn't working/tuning well (running lean), and that you need to get an Air Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR) ... (atleast) and/or possibly a fuel pump (Walbro 255per/hour) in order to increas fuel pressure.*

Now you should be running a fair amount over 300 crank HP (320 CRANK HP by the 11crank HP for every psi rule) ... "and mid to high maybe even low 13 1/4mile times with a good driver". ;) :D

*cracks knuckles ... A LOT ;) * ... I think this post was the longest post I have ever made, on any forum. I have been finding too much entertainment in talking about these cars lately.

It gets addicting.

Best regards.
 
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:eek: Damn dude, thats a lotta info. Should keep me busy for a while :). Losta reading and copy/paste for future reference.

Don't think I'm going to drop a whole lot into it just yet, as its getting to be winter. hmm....definately going to do that intake, and the exaust. Easy mods to do.

Has anyone had any problems doing these mods to a stock car? I worked with a lot of older cars, and sometimes doing mods like this would fry bearing, cause BHG, or just screw with the car somehow. I also wanna avoid blowing up the turbo for now, so I might just push it to 11. Need to get more guage pods, and I need to see how much they want for the pipes. I know that isnt gonna be cheap.

Thanks for all the info! Imma have to compile a book or something.
 
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Cavalier = NOT good stuff IMO :D .
Not he first time I heard that. I'd rather much have the supra, but to see some of the expressions I got when I pulled shit in my cavalier, it was just funny. :)
Basically, with light mods, the light FWD cav can be fun to pull the ebrake in.

Glad to have you back. The mk3 is probably "a whole different ball game" though, as is almost every car when you consider the complexities. [/B]
God yes! I knew my mk2s, and then I open the bay of this thing.... Yeah, its a supra, but were talking apples and oranges! Never really had to mess with a turbo before. I messed with my mother's WRX a bit (god bless that woman), but other than that its been mostly NA.......except the occasional bottle.
 
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