Well, not 100% sure, I work on commision, and next spring I am going to buy a house, so right now anything cheap is better than nothing. 1/4 I'd be happy with a high 13, maybe 14. Don't really give a poo about the HP, cause all the horses in the world doesnt mean crap is it can't perform. (Kinda like the whole obsession with people's weight, doesnt matter as long as you are in good shape)
Ok. You are in about the same boat as I am. I am going to be getting a new truck and a new bike and I want some good power but don't want to spend a whole lot at this time. Eventually I will be completely re-building the car but it will be a while.
Minimum:
Make sure the motor/motor components is/are running up to factory specifications and that the HG has been retorqued to 75+ ftlbs or that it has been replaced by a metal head gasket (<--with the head/block machined if MHG) or both.
Run good fluids in everything. I would say to run all synthetic fluids. Good fluids in our car would be from Amsoil, Redline, and Mobil 1. Make sure that you have no leaks. You may also want to run a PCV bypass to an oil-catch-can so that there wont be a lot of oil in your intercooling system. Check out
www.suprasport.com ,
www.mvpmotorsports.com ,
www.suprastore.com ... many others for good products.
300+ crank HP and mid to high maybe even low 13 1/4mile times with a good driver:
First:Guages: Get a boost guage good for PAST 15 PSI. Get an EGT guage tapped into the #6 exhaust manifold runner (closest to firewall). Get an Air/Fuel guage. Possibly get a wideband 02 for precise tuning ( BUT ... your local dyno/tuning shop should have one for when you dyno tune ... so you may not want to pay for one for now).
Next: Exhaust: Most expensive power mod will be full 3+inch exhaust from your turbo all the way back. Include a muffler and a high flow catalytic cnverter if you want to pass smog. I reccomend going custom for the exhaust piping. Random Technologies makes good high flow cats and there are a bunch of good mufflers. Check out the websites I mentioned for good products.
Next: Intake: Cheapest intake is a factory drop in with a
modified/cut stock air box .
I am fairly sure that you can figure out how to modify the box, but ask if you need to. ITG filters are by far the best flowing and filtering filters produced in the world, currently (*I don't want to have a bunch of comments on this because I don't want the thread hijacked )... believe me or not, they are the best ... but it isn't always necessary to have the best because other filters such as K&N filter and flow "fine").
ITG filter site
Purchase ITG filters from Coast Fabrication
Many other companies make drop-ins and entire kits for our car like amsoil/k&n/apexi/hks etc. Check the websites I mentoined above for product listings.
Next: Intercooler pipes: The stock intercooler is good, flawlessly, for around 400+hp ... but not everyone believes it except for the guys that are doing it. There are enough flow tests and guys doing it to be confident that the stock IC is good for 400+hp.
See the following link to ONE (of plenty) guy's mk3 running the stock intercooler with the intercooler pipes that we are going to talk about. The intercooler pipes write-up that we will be talking about was made by this guy:
John Lunsford at 7mpower.com.
The following is the link to the PVC intercooler pipe write-up that will cost about 40$ tops (compare that to the 400+$ kits sold) and it will flow 400+HP guaranteed and not only withstand the heat but lower your EGTs better than the more expensive metal kits. <--- It is the same thing with the people who doubt the stock intercooler ... many don't believe in it, but it works flawlessly. (*I don't want to have a bunch of comments on this because I don't want the thread hijacked). You need to make sure that you get the correct temperature treated PVC and follow directions " to the 'T' ". <--- If you do then it will be flawless and you will be very pleased.
JBLMK3 PVC IC pipe write-up FOR ONE STOCK INTERCOOLER. <--- Follow this link and you will see other links within it to get parts needed and a sectioned write-up.
Want to run the same
PVC IC pipe write-up FOR 2 STOCK INTERCOOLERS FOR BETTER COOLING AND HP NUMBERS ? <--- Click that link.
Next: Cheapest way to increase boost:
Shim the waste gate.
You will want to shim the waste gate to increase boost as much as you can until you hit "Fuel Cut" (<---which really should be called "spark cut" becasue it cuts plug spark, not fuel). Fuel cut will come on at about 12 psi because the signal coming from your afm(air fuel meter ... thing behind the intake box and before the plastic accordian hose that goes to your turbo) will tell the TCCS(Toyota Computer Control System) that it is letting in too much air in and that your motor could be running lean so it cuts spark to keep you from running too hot/lean and from consequently "blowing up" your engine. "Fuel Cut" is a very good safety precaution for our motors, the only problem is that it hinders performance via high boost levels.
At this point, at around 11-12psi you should be running about 280-290 crank HP/340 crank torque. Next we will talk about raising boost to the full, yet safe, potential of the stock turbo/fuel system by raising the "Fuel Cut" with the stock AFM.
Next: See
Raising "Fuel Cut" with stock AFM and continue reading below.
Basically all that you do is utilize the stock adjustbale screw on the stock 7mgte AFM to allow air into the AFM system through the "extra AFM tunnel". Many people get the misconception that the AFM is now sucking in more air ... but it is sucking in the same amount of air. Since the air is now being sucked through the "extra tunnel" , it is "sneaking by" the Karmam Vortex meter that meters air in the AFM. The Karman Vortex meter measure air FREQUENCY, NOT MASS. So, you get to suck in the same amount (mass) of air that you were before at that boost level ... BUT ... the meter doesn't read the same FREQUENCY at that boost level because the air is dispersed past the meter. BUT, as you raise the boost by shimming the wastegate more, there will be a point (preferably sometime after 15psi if you adjust the screw properly) that you will hit "Fuel Cut" again becasue the AFM will once again be metering the FREQUENCY signal that triggers "Fuel Cut".
Also, another good thing to do to the AFM to help with flow/higher fuel cut assurance is porting and polishing which can be done by yourself for fairly cheap.
In this thread that I linked to above, you will notice that this is a somewhat "touchy" thing to do without fuel upgrades ... BUT ... it can be run flawlessly with the proper tuning. You, especially, should find this more convenient to do since you have a dyno/tuning shop near your home.
The turbo is safely run at 15psi. Owners have said that they mostly encountered stock turbo problems from boost elevated past 15psi.
The fuel injectors have been mapped to have flow for over 400HP AT 100% DUTY AND AT 100% EFFICIENCY. I do not know what the highest potential power numbers are that the stock fuel pump should be good for, but I know it can be run, with this et-up, with careful tuning.
*I am not saying that the stock fuel will not work fine for this set-up, untuned, but it shoud be tuned to insure effectiveness. Get it tuned at that local dyno shop near you (or whichever you think is best to tune at) and it should be fine. Worst case scenario should be that, it isn't working/tuning well (running lean), and that you need to get an Air Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR) ... (atleast) and/or possibly a fuel pump (Walbro 255per/hour) in order to increas fuel pressure.*
Now you should be running a fair amount over 300 crank HP (320 CRANK HP by the 11crank HP for every psi rule) ... "and mid to high maybe even low 13 1/4mile times with a good driver".
*cracks knuckles ... A LOT
* ... I think this post was the longest post I have ever made, on any forum. I have been finding too much entertainment in talking about these cars lately.
It gets addicting.
Best regards.