Supra Forums banner

The cheapest 2jz engine build EVER.

90K views 398 replies 194 participants last post by  Buffy718  
#1 · (Edited)
hey guys, I figured it's about damn time I make one of these build threads, and just so happens I bought an engine yesterday.

Here's the rundown. Everything will be on an extreme budget,and I will keep the total cost (including everything) under 1k. At the end, I will hope to reach around 700whp with the setup. I currently have a 1jz in my SC300, but i'll be swapping this jz over when i'm done with it.

I'll tally it here for now:

2jz-GE engine: $80
2jz-GTE cylinder head: $50
USDM 2jz-GTE cams: $100
Megan T4 manifold: $85
2jz-GTE Oil Pump and Water Pump Housing: $80
2jz-GTE OEM Rod Bearings: $15
NPR Piston Rings: $45
Eristic Gasket set: $70
ARP Head Studs: $105
PTE 780cc injectors: $150
GTE Valve covers: $140
2jzgte OEM Headgasket: $95
JDM Aristo Intake manifold: $150
Holset HX-52: $150
Ebay fuel rail: $59
Oil Sandwich adapter plate: $25
Oil line (N2O line) and coupler: $17
2JZGTE Crank timing gear: $35




Parts Sold (That I got with the purchase)

MKIV Resistor Box: +$70
GE PS Pump +$50
2JZGTE Igniter +$70
2jz-ge Valve Covers +$20
2jz-ge lower Intake manifold +20




Total Spent: $1451
Total Left: $0
Total Over Budget: $221






____________________________________________________________________________________________




That's it for now, still need to buy lots of parts. I'll add more when I get it.

Hoping to add ARP head studs, ACL main and rod bearings, TT pistons (maybe), and a new gasket set. Of course the regular stuff like intake manifold and oil cooler will have to be added, but i can get that later on.

On to the pics:

Image
2jz-GE with all of its $80 goodness. Had 180k on it, apparently with a blown headgasket. The timing belt is new, as well as the spark plugs and water pump. I guess I lucked out.

Image


Didn't come with a lower oil pan, but I can find one easily at a junkyard, no biggie.

Gratuitous 2jz shot:

Image


GTE head:

Image


it had a valve stuck open from a nitrous backfire. Nothing a dremel or machine shop can't fix. I'm doing all new valve seals everywhere as well. Possibly valvesprings if the budget allows.

Image


XSPower t6 turbo mani. A shameless ripoff of the full race mani. the welds aren't great, and there is a bit of slag, but again, i cant expect much from a 100 dollar manifold. I'll mod it to work well.

Image


Some extra parts including a GTE fuel rail I got for 8 bucks.

Image


180k miles of loving..looks like the engine had a while between oil changes.

Image


Took out stock non cooled oil filter thingy.


I had an issue taking off the head because one of the head bolts was stripped. I also noticed the bolts near the middle and rear of the engine were MUCH easier to remove than the front ones were. Is there any reason for this?

Anyway, I hit the head with a rubber mallet and spun it around 10 times til the bolt came out. Easy as pie. Only took 2 hours with a chisel and drill until I figured out that method. Here is what I got:

Image


I have a question. Why the hell does one cylinder look brand new? I still see the damn billet markings on it. More pics:

Image


Image


My theory is the coolant leaked into that cylinder and steam cleaned it. The gasket didn't look blown, but it was hard to tell.

here's another cylinder for comparison:

Image


2 heads next to each other:

Image


headless 2jz:

Image


That's all for today. Tomorrow I'll take off the upper oil pan and check the bearings and sludge. And hopefully try to clean the engine out a bit before painting the block and accessories.

let me know what you think.

Thanks,
-Freddy
 
#3 ·
I'm going to use the 1jz harness, that's it. The engine will stay intact, as I'll probably sell it, or put it in my Mom's Kia Sportage, lol.
 
#12 ·
good luck with the low budget...cant wait to see the final amount actually spent
 
#15 ·
If I can't find a set for a good price, I'll just pull them off the 1jz. No biggie.
 
#16 ·
You say you are looking for 700hp. That manifold is a waste of fucking money then. You better sell it and get a t4 turbo manifold.

Unless you are looking to make big power there is zero reason to have a t6 manifold/turbo. Also you really should hot tank that block. I don't see this coming under $1000 seeing as a gasket set is $350, and TT pistons/rods usually sell for $100. You are already over there.

Even if you get the eBay gasket set you still have a ton of small stuff left, and that's the expensive stuff. You are going to make, maybe, and I really mean maybe, $200 from selling the GE head/cams.

You then need a GTE IM/TB since you are using the GTE head. Also a DP/MP, oil lines for the turbo, an actual turbo, and tap the block for the oil lines. After that you will need an intake for the turbo, but I guess that can wait, but not really. If I was doing this I'd rather replace the water pump and oil pump while I was in there.

GL man, but there is so much little shit you aren't accounting for, and you can't sell GE stuff for anything.

Alex
 
#27 ·
I'm using this manifold and probably welding a t4 flange, or using an adapter. The turbo I'm going to use is the Holset HX52, which is pretty cheap as is. Gasket set is 70 bucks on ebay. I have a TB, and IM I can get from a local guy here for about $75. i have a downpipe that I can fab to work. it's a 3" vband that I'll have to expand to 4". Water pump is new, and oil pump looks to be in great shape.

If I get $200 back, that would be great, 20 percent on the total budget of this project.

There isn't much I'm not accounting for. Turbo piping can be found for dirt cheap if you don't mind that it's used, and I don't. I already have the tap and die for the hole, and the oil pan is off. No issue there.

I'm not using TT rods, as they are identical to NA rods. I'm actually going to reuse these pistons, and just change the rings and hone the block. The pistons are in decent shape, and could just use a good cleaning.

I have a one piece exhaust from the downpipe back, so I don't need a midpipe. This isn't going in an NA car, i already have a TT 1jz, so there wont be much adjustment as far as IC piping and setup is concerned.
 
#20 ·
Comepletely unrealistic goal. Unless people GIVE you parts it wont happen.

Some things CANT be bought used: Gaskets, Plugs, Fuel filter, custom oil lines that you KNOW you will need. what about a new oil and wtaer pump? cheap insurance.

Plus all those $3.95 pieces that REALLY add up. Also...what are you using for engine management. With 700whp you will need it
 
#28 ·
Gasket set is 70 bucks. new plugs are 12 bucks. My fuel filter was changed 10k ago, so it's fine. Oil lines I can find for less than 50 bucks.

I'm using my Greddy Emanage for management, and I have a wideband installed. it's not my first time doing this, i'm sure it can be done for under 1k. just gotta know where to look.
 
#21 ·
You might know this but im pretty sure the hx52 is closer to a T4 not a T6. Can always modify the flange on the manifold I guess. Even a T4 needs the holes drilled out just a little bit more to fit the HX52. Just thought id let you know in case you did not know this already.
Good luck with the budget build.
 
#29 ·
Update:

Took off the oil pan, checked the rod bearings. They all look in great shape, and it looks like the rear main seal was changed, cause it's damn near spotless. Oil pump also looked in decent shape. might still change that out, depending on the budget. There wasnt any sludge in the engine (just on the outside), so it leads me to believe the engine was taken care of decently.

Image


Image


Image


Tried to wetsand the block mating surface with 1000grit. it's taking a while, but it's coming along. Might switch to 800 grit.

Image


next step is to order the gasket set, replace the valve stem seals, and get to work on the piston rings.
 
#34 ·
I'm replacing piston rings and main bearings, so pistons will come out when I do that. I'm also going to hone the block. I'm not leaving anything to chance for the power i'm hoping to put out.
 
#35 ·
its funny how everyone has to put in their $ .02.. and bash on everyones parade. just let the guy build the motor and see how it turns out. we all have done our over budget builds and our parts alone are over $1k.. if he pulls it off.. than all the power to him.. so everyone so quick to thrash his ideas.. oh btw.. if ur doing a budget build, u cant count on sold expenses.. it has to count on spending only.. so what ever ur sellin to make up the diff doesnt add the total. it has to be what ur spending on the build on ur own.. .. gl with the build btw.. wanna see how long this lasts..

jus my $.02 :cool:
 
#36 ·
I understand a $1k buyild is a bit unrealistic, but I'm counting stuff I sell that came with the engine I originally bought. Basically I'm using the rules or the Grassroots Motorsports $200x challenge. You can sell things that you bought, but ended up not needing to aid your build.

I'm not gonna go and say "I found 20 bucks on the street, and i'm counting this towards my build", but I'm trying to make this as realistic as possible.

it will take a while, since I'm still sourcing parts, but the bulk has been bought already.

I'm trying to find a set of FD rx7 injectors, theyre pretty huge, and fit in the fuel rail. Cheap as well.

I don't plan on making much money from the stuff I sell, MAYBE a few hundred, if that. Even so, it'll be an accomplishment if I get it done.

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I'll keep updating.