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Fastest spooling 450whp on 93 oct combo?

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#41 ·
I have the Borg Warner 83-75 turbo and it's really responsive on both my 1JZ and 2JZ. The car pulls like a v8.
 
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#42 ·
Torque said:
I have the Borg Warner 83-75 turbo and it's really responsive on both my 1JZ and 2JZ. The car pulls like a v8.
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Same, love it and it didn't break the bank either. Still, after seeing that EFR dyno vid up above, I vote for op to get an EFR! I thought I heard a supercharger whine along with the turbo whistle. Very nice, good power, and they're supposed to be very responsive on the street.
 
#43 ·
That EFR vid above is just running JUN 272 cams and UK pump fuel. So it really isn't anything special. If I had the money I'd try to test the 7670 on the FULLrace small runner manifold with every PTE turbo I could afford. :lol:

For that turbo I would for sure run the .92 AR since I wouldn't want to spend money on gates, or the 1.05 AR like the car in the video for you guys that want to use your external gates. Good luck on your quest for response! :bigthumb:

Alex
 
#44 ·
For 450hp the old school 60-1 p trim. All this new tech is just more money for more top end power with minimal spool loss, not faster spool with minimal power. For the price you won't be able to beat it.
 
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#45 ·
tissimo said:
For 450hp the old school 60-1 p trim. All this new tech is just more money for more top end power with minimal spool loss, not faster spool with minimal power. For the price you won't be able to beat it.
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That's what I had (actually the PHR Stg 1 but essentially the same thing) on my Induction Motorsports cast setup (moded Turbonetics cast mani) and it made about 470 whp at 17 psi.

If I was to do it now adays, and in an effort to be a good parent and not let my kids blow all my money, I would get a GTX30 on the Spa manifold.
 
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#46 · (Edited)
AlxRSPTT said:
That EFR vid above is just running JUN 272 cams and UK pump fuel. So it really isn't anything special. If I had the money I'd try to test the 7670 on the FULLrace small runner manifold with every PTE turbo I could afford. :lol:

For that turbo I would for sure run the .92 AR since I wouldn't want to spend money on gates, or the 1.05 AR like the car in the video for you guys that want to use your external gates. Good luck on your quest for response! :bigthumb:

Alex
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After seeing a Full Race manifold get outperformed by an HKS at under a 1000WHP on Craig Bush's car, I have lost faith in them for anything under 1000whp. Especially for the price I wouldn't even consider it. For a real street daily driver, seeing as how cast mani's are proven to spool faster, and now they are shown to flow just fine up to 900whp, I personally don't see a reason to use a tubular mani except for show, unless you're building a dyno queen or a dedicated drag car. Those FR manifolds definitely LOOK nice though ;) I say small EFR 7670 .83AR on a cast mani and GSC s1 cams for a very efficient 450whp street car and, apparently, a cool sounding turbo.
 
#47 ·
AlxRSPTT said:
That EFR vid above is just running JUN 272 cams and UK pump fuel. So it really isn't anything special. If I had the money I'd try to test the 7670 on the FULLrace small runner manifold with every PTE turbo I could afford. :lol:
Click to expand...
In that case is the 490hp shown actually estimated engine power? I know the UK folks tend to do that - so potentially a more realistic 430-440whp or something along those lines?
 
#48 ·
tissimo said:
For 450hp the old school 60-1 p trim. All this new tech is just more money for more top end power with minimal spool loss, not faster spool with minimal power. For the price you won't be able to beat it.
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Yes you could, easily. There is a huge difference in low down response - a mate of mine went with a T3/T60-1 on his 2.5litre turbo Skyline when I had my Skyline running a GT3076R, the dyno plots indicated there was virtually nothing in it between the two cars in regards to spool but if we sat side by side with each other and pegged the throttle from 3000rpm it looked like I had a bigger motor/different league of car. Dynos don't give a full picture of the response difference you will feel on the road. Fortunately on a 3litre the T60-1 wouldn't be so bad - but there are way better turbos for comparable price. Holset HX40, Kando Dynamics T67-25G would be a couple I'd prefer if budget were a concern.
 
#49 ·
Tayousei said:
I say small EFR 7670 .83AR on a cast mani and GSC s1 cams for a very efficient 450whp street car and, apparently, a cool sounding turbo.
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I'm planning on purchasing an EFR8374 or the 7670 and running it on one of FullRace's bottom mount manifolds. I would like to run it on a twin scroll cast manifold, but I've looked high and low, and short of spending $5-10k to get a single one investment cast, it's not out there. The larger frame EFR's only come with twin scroll T4 flanges or a single scroll T3 and the 2JZ cast manifolds on the market only have single scroll T4 flanges.
 
#50 · (Edited)
Just have a log manifold made for yourself. Should be pretty cheap honestly. I've been thinking of trying to do the same, but I wish I had a TIG! They sell a basic kit to make one for our cars. I'll find the link.

Here it is. If you modify the kit a bit you can make yourself a divided log manifold pretty easily. For me it's better as my budget doesn't really allow me to factor in buying a QS Valve.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.co...uct.phtml?p=2405&cat_key=698&prodname=Toyota+Supra+2JZGTE+DIY+Log+Manifold+Kit+

Alex
 
#52 ·
Nick 95 6sp said:
That's what I had (actually the PHR Stg 1 but essentially the same thing) on my Induction Motorsports cast setup (moded Turbonetics cast mani) and it made about 470 whp at 17 psi.

If I was to do it now adays, and in an effort to be a good parent and not let my kids blow all my money, I would get a GTX30 on the Spa manifold.
Click to expand...
Yeah I like the GTX3076R as well, I like the SPA manifold as well.
 
#54 ·
Alex,

Thanks for the suggestion; while making a manifold with weld-L's is practical, it will have worse flow than a true cast manifold and will not be as strong. I've looked into having a divider welded into the center of a Treadstone manifold and then machining the outlet flat, but there you have the issue of the weld quality (difficult to weld to cast iron). As with most things in the life, the optimal solution is not easily attainable...

-Mark
 
#55 ·
marshallpre1 said:
Maybe I'm just getting older, but I need your opinions on making very fast spooling 450whp car on 93oct.
My logs show I make about 18-19psi around 4200rpm in 4th gear on the streets. Is it possible to shift this 1000rpm sooner? I'm sold on the QSV (400-500rpm) improvement, but what turbo should I use? My buddy Beau has suggested using a new PTE 6262. Any others?
Thanks
Jeremy
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Hi Jeremy,

My goals were a fast spooling 475 whp on pump, and here's the thread that covered that successful search. The link is to page 10 to show the dyno plots, with 15-16 psi by 3200 rpm with the Garrett GT3582R .63 AR on cast manifold and a very basic setup. That's a stupid early boost threshold on a 2JZ making over 475 whp, the throttle response and power output above that felt linear, and power increased all the way to redline. Best results I've seen so far for this specific power and performance goal. No need for a QSV either. Be sure to also check out page 11 for the driving impressions.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...wthread.php?530737-Turbo-matching-for-the-road-course...plotting-success/page10.

The smaller GT3076R or GTX3076R may also barely make your power goal, but their smaller turbine will lower the engine's volumetric efficiency, and the power it is able to make at the same boost pressures. No problem if you can run another psi or two to make up for it, but you may already be pushing the pump gas psi limits. Add water-meth injection and you are there. Power will peak a little before redline, and you'd need to teach your right foot even more discipline and control at lower rpm.

Hope that helps,

Bruce
 
#60 ·
mark94tt said:
Alex,

Thanks for the suggestion; while making a manifold with weld-L's is practical, it will have worse flow than a true cast manifold and will not be as strong. I've looked into having a divider welded into the center of a Treadstone manifold and then machining the outlet flat, but there you have the issue of the weld quality (difficult to weld to cast iron). As with most things in the life, the optimal solution is not easily attainable...

-Mark
Click to expand...
Hi Mark,

Placing a divider in the cast manifold to split the the pulses wont really do anything other then create unwanted restriction. The thing preventing this from working correctly on the cast manifold is that the runner orientation is incorrect for a divided setup. You need to separate the runners specifically for pulses.

For example, on a 4G63 motor (for simplicity of only 4 cylinders), you would want the pulses from 1 and 4 separated from 2 and 3 completely, all the way into the scroll area of the turbine housing. It also requires two separate wastegates for the each of the divorced sides to keep the pulses completely separated. I've been playing with divided setups since roughly 2007. They work great. You can run immense amount of timing and adjust the cams to really broaden the power under the curve while still maintaining power at high RPM.

Hopefully I read the post right and I am not typing this in vain. :)

All the best.
-Isaac
 
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