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1JZ build advice. Looking for about 700 whp.

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16K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  figgie  
#1 ·
Hello, everyone

My name is Khobi and I have been recently thinking of buying a JDM Soarer. The 1jz GTE is an amazing motor, but I have a power goal for my next car. I want it to make 700 who and I was wondering how one can go about that and if there are kits and explanations of common terminologies such as A/R and manifold types. I was currently looking at BW 8374 with an internal wastegate and a Supra store kit. Would the engine even be able to handle the power? and how would the car behave because I don't want a turbo that spools at 5k rpm. I would normally be running at around 500 whp, but would like to be able to turn it up for 1/2 mile events and such. Thank you and hopefully I can get some help on this issue.
 
#2 ·
The 1JZ is very potent and strong but it is not an engine that spools turbos quickly. 700whp is absolutely possible on an internally stock 1JZ-GTE but it takes more than just a big ass turbo - you will need a fuel system, intercooler, cams, clutch, exhaust, and ECU that can support that HP level too.

Generally speaking, I'd expect to spend about $2-4k on a turbo kit, $1000 on an intercooler, $1000-2000 on camshafts and valvetrain upgrades, $3-4k on an ECU and complete fuel system, and $1500+ on a clutch (assuming it's an R154 5-spd Soarer you're considering)

Again, the 1JZ-GTE's internals are very strong but it's a relatively low compression 2.5L so it does not spool larger turbos very quickly. If you want less lag, building a hybrid engine using your 1JZ-GTE cylinder head and a 2JZ block is very straightforward and typically called a '1.5JZ'.

A/R stands for 'Area over Radius'. It's a ratio of how large the turbine housing is relative to the size of the turbine wheel. a 1.00 housing is 1:1, a .58 is a housing 58% the size of the turbine wheel, meaning the housing very small relative to the size of that turbine wheel. a 1.20 is 120% of the size of the turbine wheel, so it'll make great power with low backpressure but will spool much later than the same turbo with a .58.

Basically a smaller number like a .58 will offer fast spool but it will limit total HP, rev range, and safe power on pump gas (due to increased backpressure)
A larger number like a 1.20 will be slower to spool, but make more power at higher RPM's with lower backpressure and lower EGT's. Picking the right housing size is relative to the specific turbo you're considering and your performance goals.

The Suprastore kits are nicely made and not shitty Chinese manifolds, they're a good value for the money. The newer BW stuff is good, an 8374 probably won't get to 700whp but will definitely make 650whp or so on high boost with all of the above-mentioned supporting mods, and depending on the turbine housing you choose. Being a 62mm-ish turbo means it'll be relatively responsive for a 1JZ but 1JZ's tend to be naturally laggy compared to almost any other engine.

Good luck and I hope you find a really nice Soarer, share pics here when/if you do!
 
#3 ·
Hey Wreckless. Thanks a lot for the response. I was wondering if you had turbo and turbo kit recommendations. All the supporting mods will be done by my tuner so he can stop complaining about mismatched stuff on the cars he tunes 😂. The car does have a R154 and I am looking to get around 700 whp. If the car would be too leggy then, I would definitely be able to settle for less. My plan was to keep similar levels of boost as a 600 whp car, but turn up the rev limiter (this means new internals as well of course).
 
#4 ·
Impossible to make a good suggestion with the limited info, because it all depends on budget and goals. People love to throw out random numbers like 600whp or 700whp without any other goal or awareness of everything else that comes with it.
What are your plans with the car? You mention 1/2 mile racing, but a laggy turbo wouldn't really matter for that.

What drive will you usually take with it? Will you be doing stoplight digs late at night, highway cruising, road trips, curvy mountain roads, etc?

Also, how much are you really, truly, honestly comfortable spending on the build part alone, once you have the car?

Think about these questions carefully and really consider it all.
 
#5 ·
I have thought about all this. My build should be under 40k with the car. The car itself is 15k so about 20k to spend. I want a 650 to 700 hp capable car that reliable. What I mean by that, I can drive around with full Watergate as a daily and change maps to gap the shit outta people. Mostly highways pulls and some digs cause I don't think the car would put down any amount of power from a dig due to 235 cross section tires. This is more gonna be a street car that's geared towards 1/2 mile competition than just a pure drag car. So not too laggy. I want boost between 3500 to 4500 at max. I was looking at twin scroll with low .ar such as .80 or .91 ar that would spool quick and still give me good power.
 
#7 ·
Yes, this is the quintessential young kid post.

1. See car for sale
2. Join said car forum
3. Post asking how to make 1000hp
4. Never seen again when they realise they don't have the budget and reality slaps them in the face

Also, op, you're idiot. People go 7's on 235 radials.
You don't have to answer if you are gonna be unhelpful. I'm still waiting on cars shipment ya know. Imports take a second. Thanks for the advice.
 
#9 ·
Regardless you can see this post having value anyways. Wreckless also continually drops knowledge and takes the time to give us a thoughtful response on just about any question posted on this forum. Even if there is no car and hes just asking a question anyone who uses the search bar might come across this and take something from it.

Which to add [B] Khobithekiller[/B] there are tons and tons of simliar posts and discussion threads as this one if you search for it. The 1jz/2jz swap section of the forum is helpful also digging through others builds and projects will help blueprint a similar build youre going for.