I cut a piece of stainless to fit where cover the tunnel and got a lokar shift boot kit.

Ordered XXR 521 wheels in 18x8.5 +25 f / 18x10 +25 r with BFGoodrich sport comp 2 tires, PoweredByMax JZS147 18/14KG coilovers

My motor started rod knocking in May 2014 and I had to decide whether to rebuild it or go GTE, quoting a lot of machine shops it seemed to be the same cost to go with a jdm gte motor, and my total costs for the swap ended up being about $4500.

Motor came, was definitely power washed but looked pretty good. I got it for $2300 shipped. I sent my harness to Mark Panic @ Panic Wire, he did Ryan Tuerck's 2jz drift FR-S and works with Portland Speed Industries and Xcessive Manufacturing (badass engine/trans mounts) for $735 (quoted @ 700) Started up first try, clean work.

I ended up picking up a variety of parts for the swap:

97+ TT supra motor mounts
94 TT accelerator cable
supra TT ventilation hoses
custom heater hoses
NGK copper spark plugs
toyota oil filter
driftmotion aristo exhaust flange
pilot bearing and rear main seal
MA70 "TOYODA" P/S reservoir
1jzgte clutch fan and blade
aluminum upper radiator hard pipe made by friend
24x7x2.5" intercooler with CX racing 2.5" 9 piece aluminum piping kit.
CX racing IS300 2jzgte air filter kit for MAF
CX racing 94-98 supra M/T aluminum radiator (custom mounts on bottom)

Had to do quite a bit of pounding to fit the twin turbos. This wouldn't be necessary with a single turbo conversion, but of course that entails a lot more than 440cc injectors and OEM ecu typically. I used the stock aristo alternator as my plug was the same, but I had to use my GS power steering pump with the top reservoir removed and the aristo feed port installed, along with my GS air conditioning pump, this allowed me to use stock A/C lines and power steering union with vac ports for my intake manifold.

 

Down pipe isn't pretty by any means, but I am using scrap 2.5" pipe from a project a long time ago that my brother did. My pie cuts and angles aren't perfect but I'm using a pneumatic cut off wheel and 110v lincoln wire feed. From my mock up it seems to fit pretty good

had to jump resistor to get my tach working

I got about 600 miles on the setup, still got a few things left to do.. like:

Recharge A/C system
Change the oil and replace o-ring between sandwich plate and block
Upgrade fuel pump to Denso TT in tank
replace VVT-I oil control valve (getting two codes for malfunctioning OCV)
buy MA70 mechanical speedo gear and marlin crawler VSS adapter (electrical one stopped working)

Maintenance parts like:
Replace valve cover gaskets and front cam shaft seals
Replace O-ring in stock VVT-I cam gear.
Timing belt, tensioner pulley, water pump, serpentine belt

In the future I plan on upgrading to a TRD auto LSD, redoing my interior and having the car repainted. Motor upgrades will include a borg warner S362 with megasquirt MS3-X with vvt-i control and supporting fuel and clutch some day. Hope you guys like my introduction of the car! I been waiting to post until I had a little sustenance to my post.

 

Do I like Aristos? Hellllllllllll yes!

Your car is a little rough around the edges but she looks great for her year. Mad props for pulling off this swap especially since it is vvti. I bet the harness was a bitch. I am working on a 93 sc300 GTE VVT-i swap and I'm currently in the electrical nightmare part of the swap. I am sure you know what I am talking about.

Maybe I am wrong but it looks like you disabled the sequential system. If so, how do you like TTC?

But yeah, I love fast, Japanese 4 doors. You're really going to love the VVT-i version though. Very efficient engine, good torque, and my fuel economy is great too. Check out my 2jz-gte VVT-i. I hope you don't mind me posting a picture in your thread.

I'm following your progress along. Good luck rest of the build bud.

 

Thanks! I definitely dig your build, how complete and OEM it is.

My car is definitely rough but at this stage, I plan on stripping the car completely down for a full restoration once I am finished and happy with the build. Probably in two years when I finish college I'd like to do a S363-S366 sized turbo, build the motor, megasquirt MS3-X, trd LSD, flex fuel and have all my suspension components updated when I prep the car for a full paint inside and out and have the interior redone. But in the mean time I'm going to drive the car and work out all the bugs that arise and hopefully have a good quick daily driver thats reliable.

I didn't mess with the twin turbos, so they should still be sequential. Right now I'm lacking a TT fuel pump and my oil control valve plug is broken, throwing two codes so VVT-I functionality isn't working. Planning on working on those next week, and once that is done I'm going to meet up with Mark with panic wiring and throw the car on the dyno at PSI to see what its putting down and see if some changes in the transmission wiring have any effects on power with the manual transmission. It seems the first turbo is spooling around 3000 rpm and the second around 4500 if I am not mistaken. Not getting any smoke when boosting but I am noticing a white smoke on cold start after doing a german castrol oil change. Pretty sure my valve guide seals are needing to be replaced, which also needs to be done with the cam seals and vvt-i cam gear o-ring. Almost running perfect though! When I do these things I'm going to flush the water out of the coolant system (which is working great even in 100 degree temps boosting) and run toyota red w/ distilled water. In the coming days I need to get my A/C re-charged before summer is over, going to have my bro help me out with that one at Toyota!

 

Wrenching while in college. Ahhhhhh the good old days.

What are you studying?

Good luck rest of the way bud!

 

baddddasssss

 

Thanks! I am double majoring in Biology & Environmental science by the way AlterEgo. Just ordered a Walbro 416 fuel pump and going to replace my vvt-i oil control valve this weekend. Just started back up at classes so I am going to be quite busy, but there are definitely some things I want to fix and touch up and modify here and there while I am daily driving.

 

Love it, just sold my sc400, I'd like to import an aristo next as to have the 2j already installed and functional. Love both rides I'm looking more towards the gs300 type myself.

 

Replaced the VVTI oil control valve and unplugged the battery and cleaned the terminals to clear the codes, what a HUGE difference vvti makes haha. The first turbo spools about 500rpm sooner or more and it pulls a lot harder just partial throttle.

Received my inline fuse, 12v 30 amp relay and plug along with a walbro 416 F90000267 fuel pump. This weekend I would like to remove the back seat, install the fuel pump and wire up the fuel pump ecu to switch on the relay, and allow 12v constant direct from the battery into the relay, to the fuel pump. Still need to figure out a diagram for the wiring.

When this is done I will bring the car to PSI for dyno time and see what it makes.

 

Bro sick ass build.. Just posted up a first gen gz300 for my boy . But nice man I need a reliable daily I was thinking $4500/5k also

 

More vvti inspiration for the 92 sc300 lol

 

Clean abs delete

 

No ABS delete here! Cruise control delete yes.

 

Another gs300 fan here. Your car looks awesome, OP

 

Ooh thought it was abs to the left of the bay but clean

 

Did did the work correct? I'm looking to do the swap myself and have my friend to the extending harness

 

Did what work correct?

The ABS is under my air filter and you can see it in the pictures. I had to unmount it from the fender and pull it a little over so the twin turbo could clear.

 

Hmm, you're saying that by replacing your VVT-i solenoid you noticed a difference in the way the VVT-i functions?

Maybe I should replace mine too.

 

My car was throwing two codes for VVT-I OCV malfunction, and when unplugging it, the terminal on the OCV snapped off, so I believe my VVT-I was malfunctioning until I replaced it with a new one. I still have to do a fuel pump, get my a/c recharged (maybe tomorrow) and get a new shift boot made locally. Pretty much on the DD grind because I am so dang busy with school.

 

A huge fan of, and owner of a VVTi JZS161, Aristo's and yours is coming together really well!!

VVTi torque down low is great, even part throttle. A few tips:

1. When going with a larger bore exhaust make sure you use a restrictor ring to prevent the little tubbies from overspinning/overboosting. I've seen mine hit up to 27psi in the winter when I ran without a restrictor ring and 22psi on a regular basis even with a restrictor ring and this was on a 4" turbo back.

2. Also get a fuel controller of some sorts to trim out fuelling up top - mine ran 10:1 up top even when I'd hit 23psi and after using a SAFC to bring the AF ratio down to 11:1 the car felt much better up top no doubt also due to a slight advance in timing.

3. Get a cold air box made up for the intake, in the summer months and sitting in gridlock traffic the car has stumbled after intake temps hitting 110F. The car starts running stupid rich and retards timing by a huge margin. A cold air box for the intake will help you a lot.

 

Thanks for the advice! Some solid info there. I agree with the cold air and fuel controller. As for the exhaust, I am running a 2.5" downpipe into my stock dual gs300 exhaust system as I knew about the restrictor ring and overboosting problem. I still need to get a boost gauge, where did you tap into for vacuum for that? And does a regular SAFC work with the vvti motor? I haven't found much information as far as fuel controllers and the jzs161 is concerned.

 

Anytime fella.

The stock exhaust system of the GS300 will be good and bring it down to the level of a stock Aristo (circa 280bhp). Once you go to a larger exhaust I'd highly recommend getting a manual boost controller and increasing boost on the first turbo (rear turbo when facing engine bay)...this will give you even more torque off the line and also reduce the sudden shock on the 2nd turbo when running with increased boost. More instructions here:

http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/supra/boosting_the_beast.htm

Best place for the boost gauge would be to tee in to the feed for the MAP sensor. Remember the MAF/MAP set up works in the same way as it does for the US spec Supra - fuelling is controlled entirely by the MAF and MAP is used only for boost cut.

I have a SAFC Neo but I can't imagine a regular SAFC not working. Wiring diagram I used was the one provided by Apexi and can be found here:

www.apexi-usa.com/manuals/electronics/neo_diagram.pdf

 

Are you referring to the old school SAFC? How well did it run with that on the VVT-i GTE. I read that the Aristo JZS161 stock ECU was notorious for fighting piggybacks?

Can you tell us a little bit more about your Aristo?

I'm sure the info would help the OP and other JZS guys as well.

TIA.

 

Also rather use a Bosch relay see if you can pick up a solid state relay which would be a lot more reliable.

 

AlterEgo, I have a SAFC Neo however from what I can tell (quick comparo) there isn't much difference in terms of resolution so both should work the same.

I've set mine up to trim fuel >95% throttle and over 4000rpm as before that the fuelling is pretty much spot on - the VVTI ECU is in open loop at that point and works fine.

The ECU only fights the SAFC in closed loop operation from what I've seen whilst fiddling around and trimming AF by 15 points at 2000rpm and cruising along. No matter what I did the stock ECU compensated for the change at that point.

 

Looks like I delaminated the front pulley I don't understand as I did this on my 2jzge too previously. I hardly ever spin 6500... WTF!

 

Good info where do I get that sandwich plate so it doesn't over boost? I'll need that. I'm looking to run dual 5zigen fireball replicas . 2.5 down pipe to 3inch exhaust if possible until I go single .