I blew out my FMS twice in the last year, It seems a lot of 2J's have this issue. My current FMS was pressed in with a seal pressing tool that bolted to the crankshaft. A buddy of mine from a local shop stopped by and brought it. The tool came in a kit with different size seal fitting and was very nice. As he tightened the tool it slowly pressed the seal into the oil pump housing evenly on all sides at the same time. So far so good and I also added a breather line from my PHR Catch can to the intake pipe for more suction on WOT! I'm hoping this solves the issue long term.

 

Billet front & rear crank seal tools.

If you push the front crank seal in too far it can block the relief hole in the oil pump and will either pop the seal back out of the oil pump or leak then having to fit a new seal again, this does up against the crank fitting the seal correctly first time.

Same process goes for the rear seal tool, it locates itself over the centre of the crank where the spigot bearing is located and you do it up in a circular order slowly with the stock bolts pulling the seal in evenly.

The front tool works with the stock crank pulley bolt and the rear seal tool is made to work with stock v160/161 dual mass bolts.

 

Billet front & rear crank seal tools.

If you push the front crank seal in too far it can block the relief hole in the oil pump and will either pop the seal back out of the oil pump or leak then having to fit a new seal again, this does up against the crank fitting the seal correctly first time.

Same process goes for the rear seal tool, it locates itself over the centre of the crank where the spigot bearing is located and you do it up in a circular order slowly with the stock bolts pulling the seal in evenly.

The front tool works with the stock crank pulley bolt and the rear seal tool is made to work with stock v160/161 dual mass bolts.

Can the front seal tool still be bought

 

It's a shame those tools are so overpriced.
I'm using a bushing press tool, which is similar to the one in Ben's post.

 

I simply trace the new seal on a block of wood and cut it out with a jig and sand it smooth. Then I take it over to a press and sit the block of wood on top of the new seal and it presses it in evenly everytime. Never had any of the ones ive done leak

 

Do NOT tap it in with a hammer! Press it in slowly with the crank bolt, with a PVC coupling or cap between the crank bolt and the seal. The PVC coupling's inner and outer diameters should be as close to the seal's inner and outer diameters as possible (it should be thick-walled). Make sure the oil pump surface is clean and that you lightly grease the seal before installing.

Press the seal in FLUSH with the outside of the oil pump, and then STOP. It will physically go in further, but you should not let it. Any deeper than flush with the outside of the oil pump will block the small drain hole behind it and lead to another blown seal. As me how I know.

 

A cut piece of PVC. Or in my case, I used the old seal, flipped it backward so it was flat side to flat side and tapped it in.

 

The reversed old seal is a great way to guarantee even pressure across the face of the new FMS.

As has already been said, only install it until flush with the front of the oil pump. Going in further seems to cause many problems.

IMO, having a breather hose joined to your intake pipe can really help reduce crank case pressure too.

 

Yea last time I followed an old threads advice and used a pvc pipe cut to size to slowly press it in with the crank bolt. We also used hondabond silicone around the outside of the seal.

This time around I will get something like this https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Bearing-Camshaft-Remover-Installer/dp/B077BTHBXF and I have a new ported oil pump and will not apply anything to the outside of the seal...hopefully this works.

 

Flyin Miata 3d prints their seal installer tools these days, SURELY someone in the Supra community could figure out a way to do that?

As for the catch can, I'm not familiar with Real St's design, does it have any baffles or mesh or screens of any sort? If not, you're just shooting vaporized oil mist into a big empty can. It needs something to encourage the oil droplets to drop out of suspension.

 

Yea it does, here is a video where Jay opens it up to show

 

Sometimes I'll use rtv or fipg to lube a seal before installing. How do you guys feel about that method? I've only done this on dirt bikes but it's never failed me.

 

I was recommended to use honda-bond (basically same as fipg) on the outside of the seal which I did, but will not be doing this time. That only lasted for a couple hours of driving.

 

^ The TSRM doesn't say to use any sealant...just a slight amount of multi-purpose greese to ease it in without tearing.

 

Was catching up on this, and wanted to mention I've installed the seal "all the way until it bottoms" and the difference between bottoming out and slightly out (or flush as some of you call it) doesn't cover the port anymore than you think. The area that is open behind the seal to allow pressure to escape down the hole is 10x larger than the hole itself, I don't see any reason to not have the seal fully bottomed out.

I don't have any photos to demonstrate this, but next time you install an oil pump, place the seal in it already before you install it over the crank, and you can see for yourself. It will not block the drain hole anymore than you think.

As for the install tool while engine is in the car, those Amazon tools suck and break. If anything, the rings are the only useful portion that I would use.

Actually, Realstreet has a video on this as well.