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drifting ebrake

15K views 59 replies 22 participants last post by  planemos  
#1 ·
I think I have figured out how to build a hydraulic ebrake setup for my mk3. I guess my question is will the rear calipers be strong enough to lock up the rear tires? My car is a 1988 7mgte. I just broke one of my e brake cables so I began to consider doing a hydraulic assembly. I can fab up a e brake handle easy enough. And I have a guy who can do any brake line work I want. And I was going to use a 2wd toyota pickup clutch master cylinder and remove the reservoir. Then tap into the reservoir hole and blah blah. But I'm not sure if I should do it yet because I am not sure if it will work well enough. I could always try and find a new ebrake cable but ultimately cables will never last.
 
#9 ·
jaime Try tandem drifting with no ebrake..... lol Go street drift a bit more then come back.

Zach90Turbo I used to have anti lock brakes... lol. My Cobra 13 inch front brakes lock up no problem. The rears are the original Toyota calipers though.
Okay so that's good to hear that they can lock up the rear. I have been looking into it. I read this about how master cylinders work and different types: http://what-when-how.com/automobile/hydraulic-braking-system-automobile/

That helped me understand some shit. I think what I want is a non residual (girling) style master cylinder. But I think I would have to get rid of the reservoir, run a tap, and hook up the brake line to that. I might go ask my brake specialist mechanic buddy about one. I'm not sure exactly what size to buy or like what kind of vehicle might have one like that.

I also got a guy with a parts car which has the ebrake cables still on it. Even if I get this hydro brake working I will still need to repair my broken cable because I want my car to have a parking brake (plus be able to pass a vehicle inspection!)
 
#10 ·
OP, you should post in the Drifting section as it's obvious some people have no knowledge/experience with drifting if they think the e-brake is overrated.
 
#19 ·
ok im not a mk3 veteran but i do own one and i do drift, not many years but enough to know a thing or two. 1.) if the cable broke than fix it, cause it could be that it gave out on you cause its old. 2.) in drifting you need different ways of drifting for different types of corners. "up shift drift", where ppl power over for some corners, "downshift drift", where you use your weight transfers plus down shifting into a slow corner two brake tracktion at the back and use little power to pull off a drift, "clutch kick" to sometimes switch over to the next corner build up revs and continue your drift, "e-brake drift" better for slow tight corners while using good footwork and steering to continue drifting. all ways of drifting will work, but to be really good you need all types. and theres still a lot but i dont like typing for too long.lol also this is coming from a guy who learned in a 87 auto, heavy! underpowered N/A supra.lol! ive moved up to my 88 7M-GTE 5 speed, hopefully moving to the track soon.lol but we'll see.
 
#20 ·
Please fix your ebrake. There should be no reason for an upgraded ebrake. Buy some new pads, Rockauto sells them and Project Mu may also sells them.

Then after you do that, adjust your ebrake, it should engage after just a few clicks so you shouldnt be be able to pull it up very high.

I slide my car quite often and with decent sport tires it locks them up without any hassle.

Also please don't take this as me being a douche, trying to help you out and give some constructive criticism. I have seen your car and there are definetaly better places you could spend the money on the car.
 
#21 ·
Just out of curiousity, what formula d cars are running a cable driven e brake? Not saying I am even worthy of driving in formula d, but I do want to be able to control my car. I already have brand new e brake pads. I replaced them, adjusted the handbrake tight, then went to a drift event. I also did some slides on the street (shut up yes i street drift). And after that my old cable must have stretched because the handbrake was no longer tight. I probably messed up by fumbling a couple times and not pushing in the clutch while in a drift. I have proven to myself that the cable will not hold up. There is no way that I'm buying a new one either it's probably $1000 new. I am going to pick up a used cable and fix that shit. But I won't be using it for anything more than parking on the street.
As for making a hydraulic handbrake I have looked into it more. A 92+ Honda Civic clutch master cylinder will work. But I am not sure if it is a residual or non-residual type. A non residual type master cylinder would allow the brake fluid to flow nicely in both directions through the master cylinder. I want that because the handbrake gets put inline of the single brake line going to the rear brakes. The only other option is to get another set of calipers and mount them somehow on the rear knuckle, having the hydraulic e brake system as a seperate system. I might try and get a setup going like this but it is going to be welfare. It will be easier to bleed though. Also there will not be a pulsating feeling when I operate the hydrualic handbrake and the foot pedal at the same time.
I have a 2wd toyota truck for parts and if I can figure out how to mount the front calipers off that truck it will work for me. The rotor thickness looks like it will be fine for using those 2wd truck calipers. I am thinking to use the bolts for the rear rotor cooling duct plate and make an adapter bracket. If I had the money I would be buying some smaller, lighter calipers to do this. It should be interesting. It will definetly make for an improvement in my drifting.
 
#27 ·
Just out of curiousity, what formula d cars are running a cable driven e brake? Not saying I am even worthy of driving in formula d, but I do want to be able to control my car. .
Fomula D drivers pull handbrakes at 90+mph.
 
#26 ·
fyi, I bought both sides brand new from the dealer ship for 100 and change... that's like working one shift at mc dicks...
I wouldn't even bother with a hydro break set up unless you are going in huge events and competing for shitloads of money

Just think of it this way, 7ms need to be rebuilt after 20+ years, well so does every component on the car eventually,
E-brake cables are no exception, after stretching for 20 years im not surprised they snapped after you bought new ebrake pads and tightened up the play on the ebrake system.
They stretch and have a shitload of tension and then no tension and then tension and so on...
take a coat hanger and bend it back and forth....what happens? it breaks.

Just get new cables and your worries will be over for at least 2 years
 
#32 · (Edited)
So anyway. Today I pulled off the front calipers and clutch master cylinder from my junked-out 2wd 1993 Toyota pickup. Then I proceeded to fit them to my Supra for a dual caliper design (independent e brake system). I removed 2 of the 4 bolts which hold the rear brake duct plate on. I drilled out the lower hole larger. The top hole had a splined bolt I hammered it out. Once I put 2 new grade 8 bolts back into those holes the brake duct plate will be held on the same as before. Off those 2 new longer bolts I am making a caliper mounting bracket. This is welfare because I am using big heavy calipers. Like I said before I have no money to spend on new calipers like wilwood or whatever. Hopefully this works so I can say I'm not stupid (as Wreckless claims).

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#35 ·
FYI a motorcycle uses the type of master cylinder you're looking for on their rear brake pedal. I used one to make a hydro e-brake on a rally car and it works perfectly. You have to tap the normal brakes while you use it though, or it just pushes the fluid into the master cylinder reservoir up front. I just T'd the e-brake master into the rear brake line after the prop valve (non-ABS car).

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If you want to use the stock calipers on a setup without having to touch the brake pedal to close the system you can get a passthrough master cylinder like the one K-Sport sells. It lets the fluid flow through it when you don't pull the handle so the brakes work normally, then when you pull the handle it blocks the inlet port so the fluid going to the outlet (to the calipers) can be compressed.

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You should fix your normal e-brake cable anyway though if you use this car on the street. What do you do when you park on a hill? Stick a block of wood under it? lol.
 
#36 ·
You should fix your normal e-brake cable anyway though if you use this car on the street. What do you do when you park on a hill? Stick a block of wood under it? lol.
Thanks for contributing. I haven't drove my car since the e brake cable broke. I am going to fix it so people can stop telling me to fix it. As far as my independant e brake system build I got a few more things done today.

I got the bracket made and bolted it onto the rear knuckle:
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Looking at it from behind:
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I don't have thick enough scrap metal laying around so I will be using some washers to space the caliper out (to sit centered on the rotor):
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I shaved off some of the bracket on the '93 Toyota pickup 2wd caliper assembly to make it fit better and shave off some weight:
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The brake pads are going to need bigger shims since the gap between the pads and the Supra rotor is 3-4mm. And the 2wd Toyota truck rotors are smaller diameter, but the Supra has an e brake assembly inside the caliper so that means the surface isn't as large. Meaning the brake pads are going to overhang on the outside edge of the rotor. I don't like that but I'm on a budget and it is only a e brake for drifting not a heavily relied on brake system. I will have 3 seperate brake systems when I am done this.
 
#37 ·
Nice, hope it works out for you. But what are the three systems? All I see is the foot brake and a now independent handbrake?


Edit: Unless your including the stock ebrake.
 
#38 ·
Not sure if you are serious lol or just pulling my leg again

The idea is that, if ever your foot pedal brakes fail, you can use your cable e brake to slow down the car. On top of that I will also have another seperate hydraulic system. So really I am making my car safer! haha I'm just trying to justify this mod because guys modifying cars often catch flak from people saying what we are doing is illegal. If I was an automotive engineer it might be legal... like I give a dam about that though.