IIRC if your start boost is set too close to your set boost, you will overboost.
The start boost is a control of the wastegate. If you roll up your windows and listen to the solenoid, you can hear it when it starts working. It makes an audible clicking noise you will be able to hear through the firewall. If you have start boost at zero, the solenoid will start clicking really early before peak boost. This is how it works with no controller at all. The wastegate starts opening before you hit peak boost. When you turn the start boost up, you will notice you hear the clicking of the solenoid start later. This means that the solenoid is holding teh wastegate shut longer. This can help you spool up a little quicker because you're not bleeding off exhaust gas as early. BUT, if you set the start boost too close to set boost you will have overboosting problems because the wastegate will not open early enough. Let's say you have set boost at 2 bar. If your start boost is set at 1Bar, you will hear the solenoid start clicking and opening the wastegate at 1 bar. But let's say you set the start boost to 2 bar. The wastegate won't start opening until 2bar, but by that time it's too late and you will overshoot your target boost regardless of what your set boost or gain are set to. Follow me?
That's why I said start with everything at zero and work your way from left to right on the settings. Adjust set boost first with everything at zero and find your target boost level desired. Then move on to the gain. If you have too much gain, you'll spike. If you don't have enough gain, your boost will fall off at higher RPM. So find a happy medium without spiking and without boost tapering off. Once you have set boost and gain where you want them and you're hitting your target boost level, then you can adjust the start boost and keep the wastegate closed as long as you can to promote quicker spool without getting too close to set boost and overboosting. Or if your boost is coming on too quick is causing you to lose traction, you can turn the start boost down lower as well... I found that worked for me once. I had the start boost set as high as I could without overboosting but I was frying the tires when boost hit hard. I turned down the start boost to allow the wastegate to open earlier and allow boost to build slower and it helped me hold traction better in low gears.
Make sense?
It was confusing to me at first and I had all kinds of problems with overboost, boost spiking, boost falling off back to stock, etc. Once you get a good grasp of how each function actually works with your turbo and wastegate, you'll find it's alot easier to manage and you can find your target boost alot easier. But if you are impatient and want something easier, you can try an EVC1. I recommended it because it's really a fool proof EBC assuming it's plumbed correctly. There's a knob to turn boost up or down. No gain, no start boost.
HTH
If you haven't thoroughly reviewed the manual, it would be a good idea to do so before you try again. Just incase you don't have it, here's a link to it.
http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/682.pdf