The only ones I have heard of that slip are the AEM ones due to their 3 bolt design.

I would go with either the Unorthodox Racing or TMS cam gears. The TMS ones are made by UR and are at a great price IMO. They are 5 bolt design.

 

best ones out i think ARE THE JUN ONES
like hua said i hear the aem ones suck too..

even mvp who sells teh aem cam greats states they are not good
"We do not recommend these 3-bolt cam gears. We've had one MVP supra slip time with these installed and 2 more customers have found themselves stranded on the highway because of similar problems."


the only 3 bolt one i would trust would be the hks ones my friend has them and never had a problem .

 

I have the Crower cam gears and I have had them on for about 4 months now and now hiccups. I beleive they are 4 bolt pattern. I just don't trust any 3 bolt patterns like the AEM or the HKS. 4 or more....and besides the Crower gears were pretty reasonable too.

 

i' havent heard anything bad from the hks Cams.... id definately go with the Jun or Hks

 

My cam gears have marks on them like they at one time must have slipped. They are Titan Motorsports Gears. Whats weird is I have never had any runni9ng symptoms from soemthing like that. It has always puzzled me why they have the slide marks where the blue paint scaped. It looks just like they must have slid. Car has always run perfect though?? I wonder if the installer marked them when installing?

 

thanks for the input guys, the cam gear im considering is a 5 bolt jun, not the most showy but from what you guys say it seems like an excellent choice.

when tightening them down...is there a certain point to tighten them to? like ft/lbs, hand tightening them seems like they would slip easy. i can use the same belt right?

would the ideal settings be the same NA vs. TT?

 

First of all, I guarantee anyone who has had any cam gear slip, didn't tighten them down when they installed them. Sport compact car did an article on cam gears slipping, and they found that even ONE bolt was sufficient (when torqued properly) to keep a gear from slipping. In fact the tightened 1 bolt to the cam gear, left the other 2 bolts out of the AEM cam gear, locked the edge of the gear in a vise, and put a 3 foot breaker bar on the bolt to the cam, and BROKE the cam and the gear didn't slip AT ALL, not ONE degree. So put all of the BS aside on the 3 bolt 5bolt crap it is nothing more than the fact that people took for granted when they bought their gears, that they were torqued down from the manufacturer, never mind the fact that the tape across the bolts specifically stated that they needed to be properly torqued down. 5 bolts is just more bolts to losen and tighten when you adjust them. Ask anyone who has used the AEM gears if they have had them slip, if they say yes, they simply didn't tighten them down. I have had my AEM gears on my car for nearly two years, and have adjusted the crap out of them, and have never had them budge.

Jason.

 

HKS must have sold 1000's of cam gears all over the world. If there design was prone to slipping I suspect we would have heard about it by now.

 

First of all, I guarantee anyone who has had any cam gear slip, didn't tighten them down when they installed them.
Jason.

On the mkiv.com article it says:

"Using a standard allen wrench, loosen the cam gears adjustable bolts. On exhaust gear, retard -3º, on intake gear, advance 1º. On AEM cam gears, it's recommend to use Loctite thread locker to prevent the bolts from loosening. After placing the Loctite, torque them puppies down! Make sure you don't move your settings or you will lose the performance benefit of the cam gears! Double check and triple check this. "

I recently adjusted my cam gears but don't think I torqued them down hard enough. Time to re-torque them and use loctite!

mav

 

Mine don't have loctite, and AEM doesn't recommend loctite. Someone has fabricated the need for loctite. Aluminum on steel doesn't naturally want to "loosen". In fact it bites quite good. If you torque them down to specs, they WILL NOT SLIP, PERIOD! I watched them break a cam in HALF with one bolt tightened to 15ft lbs, the other two weren't even in the gear at all. The leverage it would take to turn the gear with even one bolt is unbelievably high, let alone 3 bolts. Torque them down, it's not that hard.

Jason.

 

Whats the big deal if they slip on a Supra anyway? We aint gonna slap valves or anything. We had one gear slip all the way on Stephen's car a while back and all it did was run funny. We reset it and it was fine. I found that one of the bolts in one of my AEMs had come loose for some time and had worked its way almost all the way out cause i guess i didnt tighten it enough, nothing happened.

For those with big cams in Supras you might have to be more careful due to the increased lift but its just like any other part of your built motor, its gotta be torqued to spec.

The AEMs are fine, so are all the rest.....just buy the cheapest ones

 

Posted by mav7:

I recently adjusted my cam gears but don't think I torqued them down hard enough. Time to re-torque them and use loctite!

Didnt you mean to say: "I wasent sure how to adjust my cam gears, and i didnt want to figure out how to do it myself, so i waited until i found some one that could do it for me. I beleive EVERYTHING i read on this forum, and not a FAA certified Airframe and Powerplant mechanic" Sometimes i wonder why i work on these cars for people, since everything i do seems to be wrong....

 

I've had the AEM gears for about 4 years now, and have never had a problem with them. I have the old style allen head bolts, but AEM is selling new 6 point bolts that are much easier to torque to 15 pounds. I've had the new style bolts for a while, but have not installed htem as I have not seen a need for them yet.

 

Posted by mav7: FCC certified Airframe and Powerplant mechanic

Did you mean to say FAA ? or was FCC the old term? pls advice.

I have JUN ones, both IN/EX, and both slipped on me once during a roadrace event, didn't know why they came loose (maybe heat as it was really hot that day, or could be the different expansion rate btw the steel gears and chromoly face).

It was torque down right but the wrench could have error as I haven't had it checked for quite awhile. Make sure you have them re-checked, especially after you have dropped them.

Anyway, when both came loose, I lost vacuum for the brake booster and didn't have brake coming off a 140mph straight, it was scary, luckily there was enough runoffs. Since then, I used Loctite and they never slipped again. I would say go with those nice aluminum ones cos the JUN ones look really cheap.

 

Posted by mav7: Didnt you mean to say: "I wasent sure how to adjust my cam gears, and i didnt want to figure out how to do it myself, so i waited until i found some one that could do it for me. I beleive EVERYTHING i read on this forum, and not a FAA certified Airframe and Powerplant mechanic" Sometimes i wonder why i work on these cars for people, since everything i do seems to be wrong....

It's not that you did it wrong - Remember I torqued the bolts down myself and it was pretty much hand tight. You adjusted the gears perfectly I just was correcting my own fault, which wasn't really a fault I was just making sure they are torqued down properly.
And its not that I believe anything ppl say here - its that there are ppl here with more experience than me, and it makes sense to torque the bolts down so they don't slip..

No offense on you travis, really..

mav

 

i have jun cam gears, however when i set my gears to the normal "neg3 exh, and adv1 intake" i find that i don't hit full boost till a little bit later, i found it weird, but...hmmm maybe i was just imagining things so i reset them back to 0,0. maybe i'll try -4 and +1 intake.... any suggestions besides throwing it on a dyno?

 

We aint gonna slap valves or anything.

Hes an NA and I thought the TTs were a non-interference engine but the NA's werent.
dunno correct me if Im wrong
-J

 

aem cam gears are now new and improved !

just to be fair !

http://www.importtuner.com/insidetechnology/0208it_insidetechnology/


All new Grade-8, six-point hex bolts replace our previous allen-style bolts. These bolts are more durable when repeated adjustments are necessary and feature an integral washer flange for greater load distribution.

AEM’s new hard-anodizing on the outer edge of the gear (right) is 40% harder than our previous anodizing process. This new anodizing procedure offers superior wear characteristics and features a titanium-look finish. Our precision-cut gear teeth are guaranteed to match the O.E. tooth profile.

AEM’s laser-etched degree markings are located on the outermost edge of the inner hub to provide greater adjustment accuracy and readability.

 

cam gear ?

I also have the AEM's and was wondering what it should be torqued down to(ft/lbs) My gears are also at +3 and -6, is this drastic enough to set of a engine code 13?

 

15ft lbs is the recommended torque.

Jason.