What do you need to make a homemade boost controller? I heard something on the lines of a pressure regulator. or something but how can you do it? what tools would you need or what tools could you get by with. can someone explain the process in detail step by step? thanks i want to do it. cuz i don't have a lot of money. thanks again and in advance.
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G
I dont know how to make them but you can get em off of ebay for real cheap. You should get a boost gauge though to make sure you dont over boost. MBC's (manual boost controllers) can cause boost spikes though and arent as safe as an EBC (electronic boost controller). OR you could buy a couple of washers and put them on the bolts that hold on your wastegate actuator to mve it away from the turbo. Search and you will be sure to find a couple threads on it.
Air compressor regulator valve at the home depot. Just take the hose off of the wastegate and compressor housing. Attach hose from wastegate to one side of the compressor regulator and another hose from other side to compressor housing.
G
my friend taught me a wicked cheap mod, put a "t" on the vacuum line between the wastegate and compressor housing, it bleeds out air, it will give u about 3-4 pounds. It worked great on my car, till i blew something up.
go to pep boys,advanced auto parts,Get two individual sections of vacuum hose
go to home depot get a 1/4 copper tee,two barbed fitting that fit in the tee and fit the vacuum hose,
a short double treaded male end piece that fits in the copper tee
and a 1/4 inch ball adjuster valve
then you put it all together
gotta get down to the wastegate,pull off the vacuum line
run one vacuum line to one port,then the other vacuum line to the other port
screw the two barbed fittings into the tee,make sure there not on oposite ends of the tee.
screw in the double sided male end,and screw the ball adjuster valve onto that run both the vacuum lines onto the barbed fittings and then your done
close the valve all the way,and thats stock boost,open it alittle and the boost will go up,it only takes alittle.I wouldnt go past 8psi until you get,intake,downpipe,exhaust.then you can turn it up to 10psi,and go from there.I went 14.1s with that setup second cat in 10psi.Get a boost gauge and a air fuel gauge too.
go to home depot get a 1/4 copper tee,two barbed fitting that fit in the tee and fit the vacuum hose,
a short double treaded male end piece that fits in the copper tee
and a 1/4 inch ball adjuster valve
then you put it all together
gotta get down to the wastegate,pull off the vacuum line
run one vacuum line to one port,then the other vacuum line to the other port
screw the two barbed fittings into the tee,make sure there not on oposite ends of the tee.
screw in the double sided male end,and screw the ball adjuster valve onto that run both the vacuum lines onto the barbed fittings and then your done
close the valve all the way,and thats stock boost,open it alittle and the boost will go up,it only takes alittle.I wouldnt go past 8psi until you get,intake,downpipe,exhaust.then you can turn it up to 10psi,and go from there.I went 14.1s with that setup second cat in 10psi.Get a boost gauge and a air fuel gauge too.
G
slowyoda89 so is this what u need:
1) 2 pcs of vac hose(how long and wide should the hose be)
2)1/4 copper T
3)2 pcs of barb fitting (what is that, isnt this just a treaded fitting? what is the difference beetween barb and tread?)
4)short double treaded male end piece
5)ball adjuster value
this end to port on the wastegate (use barb fitting)
| |
| |__ (use barb fitting here too)
| __ this end to where the WG vac hose was going(where?)
| |
| |
this is the ball adjuster value. (use male treaded here)
this is great finally i think this is it . slowyoda89 can u plz varify.
so if you do not have the valve the turbo will spool until it blows, or until u take ur foot off the accel.
and y cant u have the vac hoses on the opposite side of each other.
my mechanic want to put a boost switch in so i can just flick the switch to 10psi. he says these methods are not safe but this seems pretty safe because we can control it with the ball valve, ture?
also can i have a long vac hose so it comes closer to the top of the engine so i can control the boost more easyly, does it matter how long the hose is.
thanks heaps
gil
1) 2 pcs of vac hose(how long and wide should the hose be)
2)1/4 copper T
3)2 pcs of barb fitting (what is that, isnt this just a treaded fitting? what is the difference beetween barb and tread?)
4)short double treaded male end piece
5)ball adjuster value
this end to port on the wastegate (use barb fitting)
| |
| |__ (use barb fitting here too)
| __ this end to where the WG vac hose was going(where?)
| |
| |
this is the ball adjuster value. (use male treaded here)
this is great finally i think this is it . slowyoda89 can u plz varify.
so if you do not have the valve the turbo will spool until it blows, or until u take ur foot off the accel.
and y cant u have the vac hoses on the opposite side of each other.
my mechanic want to put a boost switch in so i can just flick the switch to 10psi. he says these methods are not safe but this seems pretty safe because we can control it with the ball valve, ture?
also can i have a long vac hose so it comes closer to the top of the engine so i can control the boost more easyly, does it matter how long the hose is.
thanks heaps
gil
When you guys say "the vacuum hose to the wastegate", do you mean to the wastegate actuator? I dont remember a hose coming off of the wastegate.
Well you run the vacuum lines to like around the air filter so you can adjust it.
The reason to run one vacuum line to the top of the tee and the side of the tee because it matches up better.
A barb fitting is a fitting with male end threaded on it ,and the barbed part is like a nipple but must fit into the vacuum hose.
A better way of doing this is to cap off the pressure port of the turbo,and run one vacuum line to the wastegate accuater
then the other line to a tee on the blow off valve vacuum source line,and put a one way check valve inline.That is so you willl get more boost controll out of the boost controller,and boost wont fall off when you get higher in the rpms.
This is a simple process and i just hate seing people buying stuff they dont need right away,yeah electronic boost controller are cool but not everyone has the money to buy one of them or a manual one they can make
The reason to run one vacuum line to the top of the tee and the side of the tee because it matches up better.
A barb fitting is a fitting with male end threaded on it ,and the barbed part is like a nipple but must fit into the vacuum hose.
A better way of doing this is to cap off the pressure port of the turbo,and run one vacuum line to the wastegate accuater
then the other line to a tee on the blow off valve vacuum source line,and put a one way check valve inline.That is so you willl get more boost controll out of the boost controller,and boost wont fall off when you get higher in the rpms.
This is a simple process and i just hate seing people buying stuff they dont need right away,yeah electronic boost controller are cool but not everyone has the money to buy one of them or a manual one they can make
this is the one i used, love it,
http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boostcontrol.htm
this is another
http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boostcontrol.htm
this is another
http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
G
down pipe= the exhaust pipe that comes off your turbo elbow
and hard pipes are the metal pipes that go to and from the intercooler to replace the stock plastic ones.
Eric
and hard pipes are the metal pipes that go to and from the intercooler to replace the stock plastic ones.
Eric
If you just run a 1/4" open "T" off the wastegate hose, you will get about 10-11 psi with 3" exaust, That is what I used for 6 months until I made my own ball and spring BC.
G
slowyoda89 what does this mean
"then the other line to a tee on the blow off valve vacuum source line,and put a one way check valve inline.That is so you willl get more boost controll out of the boost controller,and boost wont fall off when you get higher in the rpms."
what is a "one way check valve inline". why do u need it and where does it go in the whole scheme of things
"then the other line to a tee on the blow off valve vacuum source line,and put a one way check valve inline.That is so you willl get more boost controll out of the boost controller,and boost wont fall off when you get higher in the rpms."
what is a "one way check valve inline". why do u need it and where does it go in the whole scheme of things
G
Also in the second website in the instalation guide it has something about a knock sensor. what is this and do the 7m-gte engines need to worry about this. also what is menat by this
"Before connecting the boost controller you must disconnect the BCS (Boost Control Solenoid) plumbing from the waste gate, air can and turbo outlet.
"
can someone explain this in more basic terms
like whre is the BCS, plumbing from the wastegate, air can and turbo outlet.
thanks
"Before connecting the boost controller you must disconnect the BCS (Boost Control Solenoid) plumbing from the waste gate, air can and turbo outlet.
"
can someone explain this in more basic terms
like whre is the BCS, plumbing from the wastegate, air can and turbo outlet.
thanks
G
I used a topring pressure relief valve (spring actuated diaphram) cost me $20 and looks identical to the HKS MBC that goes for $200
G
also what is meant by
"Before connecting the boost controller you must disconnect the BCS (Boost Control Solenoid) plumbing from the waste gate, air can and turbo outlet.
"
where is the BCS and what is the air can , what does this mean basically.
also this"
Note: If you have the Knock LED mod installed in your car you likely have the resistor1 installed inline with the LED circuit and must leave the BCS connected electrically. If you do not have the Knock LED mod, or wish to remove the resistor1 from it’s ‘inline’ position, you can install the resistor1 into the connector for the BCS after removing it.
-For information on the Knock LED mod see the following url http://members.home.net/dsmweb/ledmod/ courtesy of Damian Sigman
-resistor1 is the appropriate resistor value for the LED used in the above mod, either as described in the mod, or calculated for your specific LED
"
do the stock 7m-gte engines have to worry about this if so how do we get around it, by the way what is a knock.
thanks
"Before connecting the boost controller you must disconnect the BCS (Boost Control Solenoid) plumbing from the waste gate, air can and turbo outlet.
"
where is the BCS and what is the air can , what does this mean basically.
also this"
Note: If you have the Knock LED mod installed in your car you likely have the resistor1 installed inline with the LED circuit and must leave the BCS connected electrically. If you do not have the Knock LED mod, or wish to remove the resistor1 from it’s ‘inline’ position, you can install the resistor1 into the connector for the BCS after removing it.
-For information on the Knock LED mod see the following url http://members.home.net/dsmweb/ledmod/ courtesy of Damian Sigman
-resistor1 is the appropriate resistor value for the LED used in the above mod, either as described in the mod, or calculated for your specific LED
"
do the stock 7m-gte engines have to worry about this if so how do we get around it, by the way what is a knock.
thanks
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