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JDM A80 Wangan Machine - Restoration

19K views 119 replies 19 participants last post by  dream_machine  
#1 ·
Hey all!

I am finally making a build thread for my JDM JZA80 Supra. The objective with this build thread is mostly to document the process for myself and anyone else who might be interested, and hopefully get some constructive feedback during the process. I will warn you now that this may be a bit boring and nerdy but it is really a dream come true for me to get a chance to own and now work on a real dream car of mine.

A little bit about the car and myself. I bought the car in June of 2021 and it was finally delivered to me in the Midwest in early September. It is a March 1996 JZA80 RZ supra that has been resprayed red, but was also originally red. The car was from Yokohama, which is part of the southern side of the Tokyo metro area. As someone who grew up watching DVDs of wangan racing in Tokyo, car meetups at Daikokufuto rest stop, and going to the arcade to play Wangan Midnight Maximum Tune with my friends, I could not be more excited to have my very own JDM supra straight from Tokyo! I love to imagine this thing racing down the express way in Tokyo lol. Okay enough nerding out for now...

Anyway, the goal for me is to take what is here and refresh it as much as possible. I want to get it running as best as possible while still maintaining the very Japanese tuning style that it already has. Here is a parts list of everything it has at this point:

BN-Sports front bumper
BN-Sports side skirts
BN-Sports hood
Rear bumper valances (they're a good match with the other BN-Sports stuff so maybe also from BN-Sports?)
ABflug rear molded spoiler
SSR Professor MS1 wheels
Zeal coilovers (blown out unfortunately)
Mine's front strut tower bar
Unknown rear strut tower bar
Blitz SBC solenoid box (missing the actual controller unfortunately)
Tabata aluminum radiator
Titanium exhaust (not sure what brand)
TRD front brake calipers
Project Mu brake lines
Apexi Power FC ecu (missing the power FC "commander" unfortunately)
Greddy remote oil filter relocation kit
Greddy oil cooler kit
Greddy oil cap
Greddy turbo kit with T88-34D turbo
Greddy 10cm (4") thick intercooler
Apexi oil temp gauge
Apexi water temp gauge
Apexi boost gauge
TRD 320km/h speedometer
(1) Recaro (speed S I think...) seat
Bolt in 4-point roll cage

Parts that I know have been upgraded, but don't know the exact part at this time:
Big cams (and presumably supporting parts)
Fuel pump
Fuel injectors

Here are some pictures of the car as it was after it arrived. It was obviously filthy and in need of a good detailing. Also note the front coilovers were raised as much as possible for voyage from Japan.

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So the first thing I did was set the coilovers to a more reasonable height and then I started to detail the car a bit. I pulled the cowl off and the wiper arms off and repainted them with SEM trim paint and as usual they came out looking great. While doing the cowl and wiper arms, I decided to go ahead and paint the mechanical wiper arm assembly as well. Here are just a couple pictures of this:

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Next I detailed the car by clay baring the whole car and then waxing it and resurfacing the headlights and taillights. I wanted to get it cleaned up before I started really tearing into it. Here are a few pictures after the car was detailed:

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Okay, so that's it for my first post. I will make another post or two here in the coming days to get caught up to where the car is actually at as of right now. It is currently torn apart pretty good and the process is well underway. I have a decent pile of parts (mostly maintenance stuff) and will be ordering more very soon. More on that to come!

Thanks for checking out the thread!
 
#5 ·
Welcome man. Who did you get the car from?

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
Toprank Japan helped me get the car at auction in Japan. I handled the importation to the United States with the help of a customs broker.


This is beautiful, I will be following 👌🏼
Thanks! Hopefully it will be even better once I really get it fixed up!

I really like the BN Sports kit, and in that colour your car looks great.
Thanks! Yeah the kit is not bad and the color is really unique.
 
#6 ·
Those look to be veilside rear spats and an AbFlug hood. All in all the previous owner made some great choices in regards to the bodykit. It looks like it all flows pretty nicely TBH. I think the AbFlug wing matches well with the lines and low profile nature the car exhibits. Looking fwd to your build.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Here is a short video of the car idling before I tore into it... and man I love the way she chops! I'm thinking maybe it's got 280 degree cams :unsure:


Anyway, as I mentioned in the first post, I am in the middle of tearing this thing apart. It's been a mild winter here, so I am trying to put in work whenever I can. It is taking me a while to disassemble everything in the engine bay because I am taking my time and recording as much of the hardware information as possible. I'm not sure if I will post it in this build thread or what, but I have been recording most pieces of hardware in the engine bay, i.e. diameter, length, pitch, etc.
I am also labeling and recording everything that I take apart so that reassembly will be relatively smooth. This is my first time tearing into a supra or a 2JZ so I am just making sure to take my time and record all of it.

Here is a pic of the engine bay before I started and then a pic of where I am at currently.

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I have started to get some parts together for when I finally get this thing pulled.

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#11 ·
And a few more things I got for it...

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I'm excited to try this Krud Kutter stuff on the old hardware. From what I've seen it does an amazing job. Not sure yet if I will coat the hardware, but I at least want to get any reused hardware nice and cleaned up before reuse.
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Nothing too exciting yet, I know, but I do have some big plans to get this thing in tip top shape. Coming up I will be focusing on getting the suspension ripped apart as I plan on replacing most if not all the bushings. I am considering the SuperPro complete bushing kit, but it is quite expensive so I am still deciding if I want to go that route.
 
#12 ·
The video with your car idling sounds like a bridge port or peripheral port Rotary, and I say that in a good way too hahaha :)

Good choice getting all the boring maintenance stuff done first...its always good to know that the base you're starting from is in tiptop shape

Looking forward to seeing your build progress
 
#16 ·
So I am still working on getting this car torn apart. I just got 12mm and 10mm hex bit sockets to get the axles and the rear diff out. I plan on trying to get that out today. I dropped the fuel tank the other day.
I'm struggling to figure out how to remove the fuel tank upper neck protector. In the service manual it is called the "No.2 Fuel Tank Protector." In order to remove it I need to remove the thing that I circled in red in the attached image. I messed with it a little bit, but didn't want to get too rough with it because I was worried it may break something off. Does anyone have any idea how to remove this thing cap thing? I am going to mess with it some more, but figured I'd see if anyone has any idea on how to properly remove it.

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#17 ·
So I am still working on getting this car torn apart. I just got 12mm and 10mm hex bit sockets to get the axles and the rear diff out. I plan on trying to get that out today. I dropped the fuel tank the other day.
I'm struggling to figure out how to remove the fuel tank upper neck protector. In the service manual it is called the "No.2 Fuel Tank Protector." In order to remove it I need to remove the thing that I circled in red in the attached image. I messed with it a little bit, but didn't want to get too rough with it because I was worried it may break something off. Does anyone have any idea how to remove this thing cap thing? I am going to mess with it some more, but figured I'd see if anyone has any idea on how to properly remove it.

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Okay, never mind. I was able to get that thing off. It was just a clip in the middle and you had to pull up around the edges to get it to unclip from the center. lol kind of feel like an idiot, but pulling and prying on these old plastic pieces is nerve-racking since many of them are brittle and easy to break.
 
#18 ·
Time to finally update this...

I've been stacking parts while tearing into this thing.

I picked up a set of the HKS Hipermax S coilovers.
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I got the complete SuperPro bushing kit for the car, although I am still waiting on a couple of them to come in from being on backorder for months :(


Viton valve stem seals from GSC Power-Division.
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Fluidampr crank pulley
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Some stuff from eastwood...
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I also bought a ton of parts from Toyota during the big southeast dealership sale. I just got a tracking number for my big order today!!! There are a lot of exciting things coming with the order, including 97-98 headlight assemblies, 97-98 front turn signal housings, trim pieces, engine mounts, brake master cylinder, etc...
 
#20 ·
I am finally getting to the fun part of actually fixing and cleaning things up...

I've been using the Krud Kutter to clean up some things. Here is a before and after of the waste gate housing using Krud Kutter to clean up and convert the rust.
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The KrudKutter has been really good for cleaning off rust and corrosion on things that I can't or don't want to sand blast. A good example has been cleaning out the cooling system pipes and the radiator. This car had been sitting for a long time and the cooling system was completely gunked up with rust even after flushing it several times. I messed up and didn't take a before of these pipes and the heater core, but trust me, they were not nearly this clean inside before using KrudKutter.
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I also used it to clean the metal part of the fuel tank filler neck which was very rusty. Then I used the POR-15 gas tank sealer on just the same metal part to protect it.
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#23 ·
Thanks, I appreciate it!

So I did some more sand blasting.
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I started to trim some of the rubber off some of the control arms to get them ready for pressing out the old bushings.
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Finally the weather is warm enough to start doing some painting, so I started painting some of the plastic components to freshen them back up.
Here you can see the before of the fuse box and how dirty it was...
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And here is what it looks like now after scuffing it up and spraying it with SEM trim black paint...
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I also painted the radiator fan using this VHT high temp plastic paint. I had never used it before, but I like the result. Hopefully it holds up well to the heat like advertised.
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I dropped the rear subframe the other day and so now the car is really close to being fully stripped down.
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Unfortunately I made a big mistake and accidentally stripped one of the axle bolts! It was literally the last out of all 12 bolts :(
I think I am going to have to weld a bolt onto it to try and get it out. I have tried everything else and cannot get it to budge.
 
#27 ·
I agree, it is very satisfying watching years of stains and corrosion just get blasted away in seconds.
Good work. Are you planning on powder coating everything?

Is it the diff to axle bolt?? Can you hammer a larger size into it? That's going to suck to remove.

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I was leaning towards using that Eastwood extreme chassis black primer and extreme chassis black satin underbody coating. I'm kind of torn whether maybe I should just get it powder coated. I thought the extreme chassis black would still look really good and would maybe last a bit longer since I do plan on driving the car regularly and I am worried the powder coat may be chipped easily by rocks.
Indeed it is unfortunately the axle bolt to the diff... :cry:
As soon as it stripped I knew it was going to be a real nightmare lol. I tried the method of hammering in a larger size, I tried bolt extractors both male and female, and I even notched the head to turn it into a sort of flat head screw. Unfortunately nothing is working. I don't have a welder, but I am working on getting someone who has one and knows a bit about what they're doing to tack weld a bolt into it and then I am going to use the impact wrench to pull it right out. I think it should work, I left plenty of material to get a bolt welded to the head of it.
 
#30 ·
Yup, that's it. The very last one stripped out lol. I did try vice grips. I put them on as tight as I possibly could and I even put an extension/cheater pipe on the vice grips to get good torque, but it just slips on the bolt head.
 
#32 ·
Yeah, I use liquid wrench. I love the stuff. I soaked it multiple times to try and loosen it up and still no luck really. I opted against the torch for the reason you mention. It's all good, I'm pretty confident tack welding a bolt on the end of it will work easily. Just need to get a welder over to do it.
 
#33 ·
I've been busy putting in work on this thing! First, I finally received the last three bushing kits from SuperPro and I also finally got one of my two orders from the big southeast Toyota dealership sale.
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I got access to a nice hydraulic shop press at work... I started pressing out the bushings. I have all of them out except the front lower control arms and the ones in the steering rack and the rear knuckles. I will be working on those this coming week.
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I popped the valve covers off for the first time and found a nice HKS stamp looking back at me on the cams! :) I'm excited to get them out and see what spec they are...
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I cleaned up the power steering rack a bit. I plan on cleaning the old paint off later with a wire wheel and painting it as well, but for now I just degreased it and cleaned up the aluminum a lot. Looks much better...
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After:
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