Seems like you should be making quite a bit more than 420 at 23psi to me. I made 426WHP at TX2K11 with 18psi-93octane, 440 injectors , stock ecu, SAFCII, Walbro pump, aeromotive regulator, 2.5" intercooler piping, 60-1 Driftmotion single kit.

Which 3" exhaust are you using and are you using a test pipe or cat? I noticed with the Blitz Nur exhaust that the flange that seals to the cat/test pipe the flange tapered down to around 2.75". I beveled every input flange in the exhaust to cut down on turbulance and grinded/filed the 2.75" out to 3". Before doing that I made 371WHP at 18psi.

I am just curious but I have always heard not to go past 18psi on pump gas, without methanol that is. Just wondering if you or your tuner had a way to monitor knock. To run that much boost with pump it seems your tuner must have had to pull alot of timing. My thinking is that less boost and more timing would have yielded similiar power, might create more heat though. I AM NOT a tuner, I just want as much info as possible, I am also trying to make more power and about to go stand alone.

You could go with a methanol injection setup, AEM's looked really high quality in their test videos. I am thinking of doing this or having a seperate fuel cell for race gas and using a fuel pump switch that switches both the high pressure and return lines , I saw that AC Delco makes a switch that will do that for around $100 on Summit Racing online.

 

Something is certainly not right. Food for thought - my stock 1jz(only mod is cams internally) did 640rwhp at 24psi with a smaller turbo(t78 66mm compressor) and a haltech with my amazing-moses like-nay-god like-tuning abilities. LOL, j/k...but no seriously. Either you have a boost leak, your tune is realllly bad above that area or your turbo is horribly inefficient. If the engine is sound and happy, the turbo is fine and isn't some bastard housing/wheel combination, no boost/intake leaks then I would be pointing my big hairy pointer finger at your tuner.

Also, I see you have 1000cc injectors (I am using 850's for what it's worth) if it's available and feasible with your driving style - I suggest you go with E85. You have enough injector for twice the power your making, BUT one walbro is screaming bloody murder near 500rwhp.

P.S. With all that being said, Don't expect much over 500rwhp reliably on 92 pump without adding meth/water.

 

More food for thought - I made 423 hp at 18psi with a 61mm turbo years ago and this is with the aristo ecu and safc.

 

^^^Exactly. There are countless folks making 400rwhp with nothing much bigger than the stock turbos and almost no mods.

The fact that you have a AEM leaves a lot on the table if your tuner sucks. If you can send me your map I can tell you if thats a variable.

 

Either the tune isn't that good or his 1j is hurting. I would check the compression first if the OP hasn't had a chance yet before he continues.

 

unfortunately i believe the rings are prob shot the more i think about it. I thought the oil smelled like gas and my boost is blowing by the rings down in to the crank i believe. Going to do a compression test now.

 

E85

Do it

Do it now!

 

So rings are pretty much shot.
1 120
2 125
3 110
4 120
5 122
6 120

Not 150 where i belie it should be at. I also think the car is burning a little oil so.

Options from here
Find a set of 1JZ rings and slap them in. (look like they are hard to find)
Throw in a set of 2jz pistons and rings.
New bearings with these top two options


Go buy a 2JZGE out of a 95 supra with 50,000 miles and make a 1.5JZ. Is this just a direct bolt of the 1jz head on to the 2Jz block?

 

Options from here
Find a set of 1JZ rings and slap them in. (look like they are hard to find)
Throw in a set of 2jz pistons and rings.
New bearings with these top two options


Go buy a 2JZGE out of a 95 supra with 50,000 miles and make a 1.5JZ. Is this just a direct bolt of the 1jz head on to the 2Jz block?

Yes, the 1JZ head/block mates exactly with a 2JZ

1JZ pistons are the same bore as 2JZ, I would think you could just pick up a set from anywhere - toyota, aftermarket, etc.

 

Some pretty low numbers for a 67MM @ 23psi.

 

The bore is the same but i think the pistons are a little different. I read of guys running 2jz piston and rings in a 1jz bu they said the 2jz rings wont run on the 1jz pistons. I found a set of 1Jz rings for $100 from Driftmotion just hope my cylinder walls are screwed and i dont have to bore them.

 

I was just thinking of DM as you mensioned it.
Otherwise, you might be able to order em from japan??

It would at least hone the cylinders if you do go this route, hope it all works out for you!

 

Yea thats the plan pull it apart and hope i cant get away with just honing and new rings. Hope that the cylinder walls are really bad.

 

Don't hone your cylinders. Check the clearance of the new rings first. A 400 or 600 grade sand paper is enough to deglaze a bore. Just rub your hands in a swirling motion and you will be fine. Trust me, I hate honing as it remove material and when talking about a bore, one thou is a lot.

 

Sandpaper wont take away material? Depends on how/what he uses to hone.

 

Sandpaper will take away a lot less.

The ball hone or the three prong will take away a good amount. Our shop has a honing tool, we used it once. All of the engine's we have built, OEM and Supra motors, all have used sandpaper to deglaze the bore removing the minimum amount of material. All you are looking to do is trying to remove the glaze.

Trust me, it is a better way...

 

Sandpaper is absolutely not the way to clean up a bore. The point is not just to remove any glazing, but to leave some crosshatch for the new rings to seat into. A ball hone in the right grit and size will remove as little material as is possible and will do so evenly. There's no way you can match the consistency of a ball hone with a piece of sandpaper and your hand.

 

I bet you are going to need some new pistons. Sounds like you cracked the ring lands on your pistons.

 

Ball hone FTW. I have done a few times, super fast and easy. I would definetly have a machine shop check the cylinder walls for taper, they have a special bore gauge they can check the cylinders in many spots. They tend to wear more at the bottom due to the angle of the rod on both sides of the stroke, just honing would have no effect if this is where you are losing compression.
Not sure if this is true but a machinist told be that vatting the block will take the glaze off the cylinder walls , if there was no taper that would be ideal.

 

Numbers do seem low. It would be nice to see that 67 make some good power!!

Duane

 

Update: I have found a 1jz short block for sale lucky that is in good shape. i am picking it up tomorrow and will probably still one day rebuild my block but not anytime soon. I am going to run this one for now.

 

Let us know how you do cause those numbers were definately low. I made 520whp with a 62mm turbo, eman blue, and 650 injectors at 17-18psi on pump gas.

 

Got the car back running last week. Compression numbers no 150 across the board. I got a used Short block and build the motor on it. I am doing interior now then its back to the dyno. pituala what are all of your mods because thats where i want to be about 18 psi and over 500hp.

 

1J with stock head and bottom end. HKS 264 cams, Sard 650cc injectors, 2.5" hardpipes, PT6262A turbo, PT intercooler, Tial 44 WG, 3" turbo-back exhaust, Blitz ecu, and Greddy Emanage Blue. That was my set up for 520whp. Now my set up is a bit different, but it's still all 1J.

 

Back to life i will bring this thread....

Finally made it back to the dyno today. Got a new 1JZ short block and put the motor back in the car last year. Got it out of storage the other day to finish. Anyway i still think something is wrong.

After spending all day at the on the Dyno and another $600 im kinda disappointed.

I only made 335whp at 15 psi and 389 at 18.5 psi all on 91 pump gas.

What is the problem here i honestly thought i would be at the 500 mark on 18psi? My mods are in the sig and input is appreciated.

EDIT For those of you curious like i am this guy made about the same numbers as me on the same dyno i was on. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?80926-1JZ-Single-Turbo-MKIII-Dyno-Tune

 

I made 570whp w/a 67 mm turbo, 1000 cc, AEM V1, @ 18 psi on 93 pump. I also made 500whp @ 15psi when I first tuned my car w/850 cc injectors and same turbo after the engine was rebuilt.

 

your tuner sucks. even thought im on a 2jz, i made 384rwhp and 391rwtq @17psi. this was with a major boost leak and boost dropping down to 14psi. my mods are precision 6262 t3 with a t3/t4 adapter, 3in exhaust, fmic with 2.5in piping, and microtech standalone. and this was on a half ass street tune. even though im .5 liter bigger, you should be way above me because you have a much larger turbo, and twice the fuel. your tuner isnt doing something correctly

 

I wouldn't be so quick to blame the tuner. He's a half liter down from a 2jz and he's on stock 1jz cams, which suck. Also, 91 octane? 93 is available almost everywhere in Texas, if you're on 91 that's part of your problem, there are a few degrees of timing left on the table if it's tuned for 91. Also, keep in mind that tuners only work with what's brought to them, there's no guarantee that everything else on the car is right. Not knocking the owner at all, but things happen and sometimes things get overlooked. It's much easier to spot issues when you work on stuff every day.

 

i stared this thread in hopes of getting help on this. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?675206-1JZ-Dyno-Number-Suck...-Whats-the-problem-here

Did compression this morning and posted the numbers in other thread ... all around 150.
I also just pulled the CAL file from the ECU.
I really hoped for 500whp on this setup and see some many other guys making that just not sure why i didnt

 

What type of dyno was this on? When i had my 1JZ I dynoed 480whp @ 20psi on a dynojet. Then a few weeks later dynoed 430whp @ 20psi on a Mustang dyno.

 

DynoJet at Dynosuar performance in ft worth