6266 end thread /

 

Mr Ree is correct a Precision 6266 will get you to your HP gold and some.

 

It's really not just as easy as " I want 500hp, what turbo..."
If anyone disagrees with that statement above,I would be very cautious of their input, however;
A few questions:Are you looking for peak output for dyno runs? Is this a Drag, street, or just a numbers application?

 

Would be just for street applications! Forgot to mention sorry.

 

500hp....stock twins

 

500hp on stock twins is the upper echelon of what they can do. For street and daily applications the gtx35r will have super fast spool and will get you to your 500hp mark easily. The 6262 would as well, but will have some lag that every driving might get annoying.

 

The new pte 6062 seems like a good street turbo.

 

Exactly what I was going to recommend, its actually rated for more HP (750hp) than the 6266 (735hp) and has the size advantage for spool.

 

who not a BWs300?

 

A precision 5858 would do just fine for 500 engine hp at 16-17 psi

 

I would look at the EFR 7670(57.2mm), the 7670 has already proven to do 490whp on a supra at 1bar. Or could look at the 8374(62mm). These offer a clean install with IWG and a BOV. Very simple and efficient!

Casey

 

GT42 - 7675.
500 now and you can add another 500 later. Do it once

 

Honestly that wouldnt be a very fun turbo to daily drive with. Way to laggy to be pleasant

 

I vote 6266

 

What supporting mods do you have, once you get your 500hp, are you done or are you eventually going to want more? A lot of people here in edmonton are using the bw s366 and having alot of success wi4h that turbo. Guys are getting 500whp+ wi4h 4hat turbo on pump gas. People talk about lag like they are tracking their cars on the street. Lag on the street wi4h that turbo is not bad at all, it is street friendly. Every traffic light is not a 1/4 mile tree and you are not going to be racing around like an idiot driving it around the city.

 

At this point in time I'm going to stick with 500~HP. I ended up driving a friends 500HP Supra and I was contempt with that. I'm going to be spending about $4700 USD ($6600 CDN roughly) To make 500hp with the current list of mods I have. The bank will need time to grow after that. I forgot to mention I'm a younger guy (18), I have money saved, but $6000+ for anyone is a lot of money. I'm trying to keep the costs as low as possible, but I know I picked an expensive car to work on. As well, I wasn't %100 on an ECU to pick! If someone could point me in the right direction please!

Please feel free to correct me if you think there is a better product for cheaper on a different site or anywhere else!

Current Mod List:

CX Racing 3" Down pipe - 2JZ GTE MK4
Precision 6266 CEA - (From ETS Website)
(FID)Fuel Injector Development 1000cc Injectors
3" Straight Pipe
CX RACING Front Mount Intercooler Kit - MK4 2JZGTE, Single Turbo 4" Core
DOC Race Top Mount Manifold
Soutbend 6 Puck clutch (Part# K16093 SS-O-DMF )
WalBro 400 LPH Fuel Pump

 

At this point in time I'm going to stick with 500~HP. I ended up driving a friends 500HP Supra and I was contempt with that. I'm going to be spending about $4700 USD ($6600 CDN roughly) To make 500hp with the current list of mods I have. The bank will need time to grow after that. I forgot to mention I'm a younger guy (18), I have money saved, but $6000+ for anyone is a lot of money. I'm trying to keep the costs as low as possible, but I know I picked an expensive car to work on. As well, I wasn't %100 on an ECU to pick! If someone could point me in the right direction please!

Please feel free to correct me if you think there is a better product for cheaper on a different site or anywhere else!

Current Mod List:

CX Racing 3" Down pipe - 2JZ GTE MK4
Precision 6266 CEA - (From ETS Website)
(FID)Fuel Injector Development 1000cc Injectors
3" Straight Pipe
CX RACING Front Mount Intercooler Kit - MK4 2JZGTE, Single Turbo 4" Core
DOC Race Top Mount Manifold
Soutbend 6 Puck clutch (Part# K16093 SS-O-DMF )
WalBro 400 LPH Fuel Pump

First of all, ditch the CX racing intercooler, DP is okay as its a passive component. For IC, maybe go with the ETS, or one of the HKS, or find a decent used one. There have been many cores for sale on here.
Second, ditch the doc race manifold, get a treadstone or SPA cast manifold unless you really want a tubular for other reasons. I think tubular manis are great and all, but price for performance you will never beat a cast manifold.
If you have a budget then a tubular is not the way to go. Even the guys I know with pretty huge budgets have gone cast.
Everything else on the list seems solid, it will give you room to play around with power.

ECU you can reach your goals with a map ecu3, piggyback
If you want standalone, well they are all good, AEM, Haltech, PROefi, you need to buy an ECU based on the tuners around you.
You dont want to buy an AEM ecu when the guy who is going to tune your car is best with Proefi.

Also, I did not do the math, but if everything on your list is $6600 CAD;
add another ~$1500+ to that for the "oh shit" fund. Things are old, things break, parts are not always reusable, etc.
(you may need a new stock flywheel for example)

 

The doc race manifolds are a great choice, I wish I would have gone that route myself.

As far as tuning goes, find out the reputation of the shops near you before you chose a stand alone. Having reliable, trustworthy local support is smart business.

I prefer AEM infinity as it is volumetric efficient capable

 

Looking more into ECUs and tuners, there a local shop that's 2 minutes away from my house. He specializes in HONDATA, UPREV, MOTEC, AEM, HALTECH, APEXI POWER FC, and GREDDY. Looking into the AEM INFINITY 506, would this be ideal for my 500hp setup? I'm fairly new to the modified car scene, I'm pretty sure I mentioned that in the thread.

Thanks for the help again everyone.

 

Infinity is good stuff.
Also I disagree with the fellow that stated 6k won't get you a good single set up.
I pulled my jz out of the car and swapped out the twins and went single for under 5k.
Just my .02

 

To "go single", can be done for like $3k.
Its everything else thats expensive.
Intercooler, ecu, clutch, flywheel, wheels, tires (you arent pushing 500hp through Nexens I hope), exhaust, fabrication (nothing fits perfectly), tune, fuel system and small stuff needing to be replaced.
Single is not just the cost of a single turbo kit.

 

^agreed
I already had all of that stuff in place, so I made some assumptions I guess.

 

I love my 6266 it will get you 500hp and there is room for more with better fuel.

 

If you're only looking to get around 500whp for now and you're on a tight budget, I would skip the aftermarket ECU and tuning costs and plan those for next time you have cash to spend. You can use a piggyback on the stock ECU and safely handle 500whp and even more.

 

agree with jdmsup, just done swap to single in toronto , don't forget shipping cost duty tax , those my friends are adding up very quickly ,
I'm on 6266, Haltech, cast manifold 529 HP , 504 wtq 22 psi 94 pump gas , its fun to drive

 

Besides what people are claiming about cx racing, i can only speak for my experience. I have CX racing IC piping and intercooler, aswell as my own homemade downpipe i made from cx racing's website of 304 stainless steel.

All the products i have from them have not once failed, i have also their turbo kit on my 240sx ( ka24e ) and all the parts have been on the car since 2010 with not one failure.

I also have their radiator on the supra and it too has never failed. I feel like alot of people on here will shun cx racing with out even having first hand experience. Before anyone claims im spreading misinformation, my personal experience being positive with cx racing does not qualify my opinion as misinformation. Please if you actually have had personal experience with cx racing whether it be bad or good then express that. But i personally stand by them, they provide decent quality for affordable pricing.

With my IC setup from them i've been running 15 psi for nearly a year and never have had one coupler fail or pipe pop off. Everything including clamps and hardware is holding up nicely.

 

Its not about quality. I have seen their parts. They are pretty good.
I just dont like the idea of not having the maximum cooling efficiency with a good core design

 

Whats a piggy back? Probably the most noobie question to be asked but i'd rather some one explain it than google the infoand it be wrong. I think i have an understanding of what it means but again, id rather ask

 

A piggy back is basically a system that works in conjunction with the factory ECU. It essentially alters the way the factory ECU see's signals from sensors in order to adjust fuel maps. They interfere with the signals going to and from the ecu to put simply.

The simplest way to understand it is if you look at the cheapest form of a piggy back ( the safc ) it literally just taps into the maf and rpm sensors and then when you adjust certain values it tells the ecu the maf is really reading more air than it actually is so the ecu adds more fuel.

The thing about piggybacks is usually they are limited to certain size of injectors and if you want to run serious power where you need some large injectors. They simply can't compensate.

 

Whatever your budget is.....double it. 100% true. I went single and I probably went 1.5X over budget on the parts, then the other 0.5 from "While i'm there" or "That would be nice" or "This needs to be replaced". Look local first! The Canadian dollar is absolutely brutal right now......