[cre3d]

You don't need to cryo the whole motor lol, unless you're going for some ridiculous numbers.

FIPG is form in place gasket, basically its like black RTV. But a bit better.

Stock pistons will handle ~400rwhp just fine, but its really an excellent precaution to go with forged pistons... Especially since our stockers usually have ~100k on them already. Forged pistons will outlast stock pistons at elevated power levels every single time, so you're simply buying yourself longevity and peace of mind.

 

[cre3d]

Of course, I used the auto hobby shop to do the actual engine removal and disassembly, and will be using it for reassembly and reinstallation. Thats about $5/hr for lift time.

 

[cre3d]

On base in the dorm parking lot! I've gotten a remark or two but I keep everything clean and put the hood on the car after every time I work on it so nobody's really gotten too pissed about it yet

 

[cre3d]

I knew about the FIPG on the cam covers from my previous car (probe gt) which was infamous for leaking valve covers but thanks

I took out the entire engine bay portion of the A/C system today, holy crap is it ever more spacious in there! If I get hot I'll just go faster

Thats all the A/C stuff, weighs a good 40 lbs or so.

I also updated the gallery with some more pictures of the bay as it sits now without the ABS unit or lines.

http://kahmeal.com/poopra/baygal/

 

[cre3d]

Quick update on some progress I made today... http://kahmeal.com/poopra/baygal/

I actually went ahead and tore out the ABS unit and all the brake fluid hardlines after these pictures were taken. I also got started on removing the A/C components since I've decided to brave the tucson summer heat without it :| Wish me luck All this cleaning is quite tedious, hope it pays off in the end!

 

[cre3d]

A fine example of the pot calling the kettle black. Use PMs, or better yet, get a life.

Back on-topic:
Regarding eng assembly, in addition to proper ring gap, make sure the rings are properly staggered when you put them in. I forget the exact alignment, but I do know you don't want the gaps lined up together. Heh, by the time you get all your parts ready to install, you'll have quite a list of cliff notes to draw from!

Good luck!

also, whatever you do,, DON'T use that oil pan gasket. toyota calls for FIPG and that's what needs to be used.

that cork gasket WILL leak

Thanks, I wasn't aware of both of these issues! These "cliff notes" I am gathering will be invaluable for sure, and I'm jotting everything down in preparation for the reassembly. I'm sure there is still a wealth of information I am missing, but slowly

 

[cre3d]

Step away from the keyboard. The title of this thread is "Rebuild Price List (parts & machinework)". If it isn't related, don't post!

cre3d- From my experience, the biggest pitfall is rushing things because you want to drive the car again. Do not fall prey, you must resist! If it is going to take another month to get the right part to finish it, then it is going to take another month, no half assed short cuts no matter how bad you want to drive it. The power of the dark side is strong...

Thank you, exactly. Start another thread if you want to "argue on the internet".

Also, I am doing exactly as you say -- no shortcuts. I was originally planning on just cleaning the engine bay, but after today I have decided to completely remove everything and go ahead with a full repaint. I am also taking my time and polishing everything to keep it clean, replacing all the little stupid hoses/bolts etc. The end plan for this car is a very powerful yet daily driveable car, and thats exactly how I'm approaching it. Half assing only lasts so long, doing it right lasts a lifetime

Edit: I've found that having another car as a daily driver GREATLY alleviates the pressure to put the supra back together. The daily may be a pos stanza, but it gets me where I need to go, barely costs me anything and lets me get things done while I work on the supra!

 

[cre3d]

As promised, some pictures of the gasket set...

 

[cre3d]

Yes, GREAT place to order parts from!

 

[cre3d]

IF you get new toyota thrust washers, make sure you check the crank clearance. If the clearance isn't enough, u won't have enough oil between the crank and the washer and that will give you crank walk really quick.
Make sure that they grinded your piston rings to adjust the ring gap, otherwise you'll have to do that yourself. Some shops don't do that in case you want to set your own clearance. If you've never done it before, get them to do it. Just make sure to tell them what gap you want. It's easy to do with a ring gapping tool, but a bitch to do otherwise.
These prices are fair. About what my machine shop charges. Make sure you give them new stem seals (should come with the gasket kit) so they can install it during the head work.
I'd get them to do a vacuum/pressure test of the head and to polish your cams as well.
Question for you, did you say they offered you the valve angle job to fix the fact that the valves weren't sealing right?

Thanks for this advice, I'll get this done before I pick the parts up. Yes they offered the 5 angle to cure the sealing problems. He also fully examined the head before offering me this solution and it was not a matter of just replacing valve stem seals, the machine work needed to be done.

 

[cre3d]

I recommend having a shop assemble the bottom end. Eventhough I set all my clearences, used new bearings that were the proper size I am starting to notice slight rod knock at idle sometimes. Im not doubting your mechanical ability, but 7ms are finicky.

~scott

If its at idle, you're more likely hearing injectors or piston slap... From what I understand rod knock is first heard on dry starts, then in the 2000-3000 range and goes on from there. Mine wasn't audible at idle until the bearing was completely spun and the oil pressure was 0 at idle. Even at 2 psi oil pressure the knock was going away. I have the guidance of several others that have already built blocks so with the knowledge I've gathered on the board, I'm gonna take a stab at the reassembly myself

 

[cre3d]

That's Fantastic!!!
oh, & by the way,


In your response to this thread that you probably closed, I wanted to post the following but it had already been locked up by the time I wrote my reply.
http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=271769&perpage=25&pagenumber=4


Hey cre3d, on behalf of all that had conflicting ideas in this thread, STFU & keep your rude, cheap & adolecent humor to yourself.
Just because people don't agree, does not give you a valid excuse to act like the stupid ass you most likely are.

I was speaking for two of the biggest contributors to the community on this and another forum. Although they may not want me to, my sense of honor told me to post it. I was speaking for the sake of others; not for myself.

I don't believe your reply was fitting at all.
What a stupid post indeed on your part.
If you can't keep up in a civil conversation (as you have proven), just stay out of it.
In the future, don't start shit for no reason.
I know most of what I am telling you won't register in your head due to your seemingly substandard intelligence.
At your age, you should really know much better by now.

Taking the advice of the image I just posted in the first place (which seriously hits the nail right on the head here), this is the only response you'll be getting from me on this topic; lighten the fuck up.

 

[cre3d]

More than half the connectors on the old one are broken, plus i chopped it in half instead of trying to pull it through the hole LOL

 

[cre3d]

looking good how much was the wiring harness and how do you get ahold of jay marks toyota?

The prices are all in the list lol As for Jay Marks, check their forum in the main page listing!

 

[cre3d]

Thanks for all the tips, especially that timing cover! I completely forgot to drop that off in my rush with everything!! Geez, good call

Water pump is new with a lifetime warranty from autozone (its one of those things I like to get a warranty on -- not an option when OEM).

Timing belt has ~15,000 miles on it, looks in great condition so I'll go ahead and reuse it this time since my budget is stretching thin for now and theres higher priorities at the moment

Accessory belts were another thing I forgot to order, so I'll throw those in with my bearings...

Coolant hoses -- these will be new FOR SURE. Does anyone have an easy diagram or maybe part number listing of these? I'll talk to Jeff Watson later this week, perhaps he might already have such a listing.

FIPG -- good idea, I'll throw that in with my order also.

Thrust washers, what are these for and where do they go? If you mean the washers for the valve covers, those came with my gasket set (I'll post pics of the whole set later).

Oil Pump Shaft Bearings - these don't come with the oil pump assembly? Do you know how much they are?


This is definitely a learning experience for me, I'm not claiming to know everything but I want to share the whole thing with everyone so others might benefit down the line.

I've spoken to my machine shop and there will be no hidden fees, they understand that I will be doing all reassembly and all I want from them is the machining itself and the parts they ordered! But good looking out, its easy to get screwed with stuff like that if you're not careful.

PS- What are freeze plugs?

 

[cre3d]

Here's some pictures of the new harness and oil pump that I just received from Jeff at Jay Marks!