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Safe to go "All In" on stock Top/Bottom GTE VVTi with Gen1 GTX3582R?

5.9K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Mr Ree NZ  
#1 ·
Hello,

I'm in the middle of building my 240sx swapped GTE VVTi. Motor is going to be completely stock unopened and using stock IM. I'm having my T4 divided twin 38mm gate manifold made now and will be running a Gen1 GTX3582R with a T4 divided 1.06 housing.

Been doing a lot of reading and people are nervous about turbos like 6466 making too much torque down low for the stock rods. Should I worry on my setup? I was planning on having the tuner use the VVTi to spool the turbo as fast as possible on E85. Kill mode being 2 bars of boost. This is through a 6 speed manual.

Appreciate the thoughts.
 
#3 ·
Been doing a lot of reading and people are nervous about turbos like 6466 making too much torque down low for the stock rods. Should I worry on my setup?
Depends on how you tune it. If you ramp in the boost and go easy on the timing...

I was planning on having the tuner use the VVTi to spool the turbo as fast as possible on E85.

...nevermind. ?
 
#9 ·
I love early torque, the sooner the better, so you can control output by a throttle amount other than "all of it" like some turbo setups. It's great for controlling a car for a specific purpose. Speaking of which...

What are you doing with the car? A 240sx is a LOT lighter than a Supra tends to be. I'm not as familiar with the S chassis cars as I am with Supras, but how much grip do you have available? If it's "not a lot and that's ok to blow the tires off" then perhaps the rods won't be an issue. I mean, something always has a weak point, and torque is a good way to find it. If the tires blow away at 400 ft-lbs, then how much stress are you really putting the bottom end under?

That said, should be a wild ride! I had a similar turbo on a 1j in a Mk3, and when it finally hit, hang on!!! I can only imagine the extra displacement and vvti...
 
#10 ·
This is going to be my 6 speed highway queen. Don't plan on doing too much drag racing launches as I want to be nice to my new-in-box CD009 tranny but might catch the bug. Going to be running 15x9 beadlocks in the rear with Mickey ET Streets. Stock S14 240 SS is in the 2800lbs range I'd imagine 2jz single turbo swapped would be in the 3000-3100 range. I plan to weight it when I'm done. The fastest car I've ever driven was my old bolt on untuned LS3 auto vette so I'm ready to get my mind blown lol.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Hello,

I'm in the middle of building my 240sx swapped GTE VVTi. Motor is going to be completely stock unopened and using stock IM. I'm having my T4 divided twin 38mm gate manifold made now and will be running a Gen1 GTX3582R with a T4 divided 1.06 housing.

Been doing a lot of reading and people are nervous about turbos like 6466 making too much torque down low for the stock rods. Should I worry on my setup? I was planning on having the tuner use the VVTi to spool the turbo as fast as possible on E85. Kill mode being 2 bars of boost. This is through a 6 speed manual auto clicker word unscrambler jumble solver .

Appreciate the thoughts.
Depends on how you tune it. If you ramp in the boost and go easy on the timing...
 
#14 ·
Hi guys!

2.0 bar on E85 without any mitigation with that setup will be risky for the rods. I think the stock VVTi cams will limit you HP wise but I'd bet that combo would go mid-high 600's easy. A set of GSC's would put you into the 700whp range, I'm almost certain. Surprisingly, not a lot of GTX35's on 2JZ's for some reason.

As others have said it's not the peak HP, it's the tq between 3 and 4500ish that really murders the stock rods on small turbo, high boost, big torque E85 cars.

Easiest way to mitigate the problem though is to run the boost control through your ECU, and have it ramp boost up from ~16psi to 2 bar starting at 4500rpm or so, which keeps the suddenly ALL THE FUCKING BOOST hitting those rods at ~3500rpm. The problem is similar to big HP nitrous cars, which is why they tend to run RPM based window switches and progressive nitrous for big setups.
So keeping the boost limited to 16-18psi below 4500rpm and ramping in more boost progressively until 5200 or so should help keep it all together.

Typically, rod death on stock 2JZ's is around 650wtq. Your larger 1.06 housing (good choice) will mitigate that issue somewhat and help your top end too. Should be a fun combo and make decent HP out to ~7k or so on the stock cams. I'd seriously consider a set of GSC's or similar cams along with a basic spring/retainer upgrade for the top end especially if you're top-end racing.
 
#16 ·
Hi guys!

2.0 bar on E85 without any mitigation with that setup will be risky for the rods. I think the stock VVTi cams will limit you HP wise but I'd bet that combo would go mid-high 600's easy. A set of GSC's would put you into the 700whp range, I'm almost certain. Surprisingly, not a lot of GTX35's on 2JZ's for some reason.

As others have said it's not the peak HP, it's the tq between 3 and 4500ish that really murders the stock rods on small turbo, high boost, big torque E85 cars.

Easiest way to mitigate the problem though is to run the boost control through your ECU, and have it ramp boost up from ~16psi to 2 bar starting at 4500rpm or so, which keeps the suddenly ALL THE FUCKING BOOST hitting those rods at ~3500rpm. The problem is similar to big HP nitrous cars, which is why they tend to run RPM based window switches and progressive nitrous for big setups.
So keeping the boost limited to 16-18psi below 4500rpm and ramping in more boost progressively until 5200 or so should help keep it all together.

Typically, rod death on stock 2JZ's is around 650wtq. Your larger 1.06 housing (good choice) will mitigate that issue somewhat and help your top end too. Should be a fun combo and make decent HP out to ~7k or so on the stock cams. I'd seriously consider a set of GSC's or similar cams along with a basic spring/retainer upgrade for the top end especially if you're top-end racing.
Hey man thanks for the reply! This was exactly the type of info I was looking for. Trust me I really want some GSC S1 VVTi cams but I'm already deep in cash for this build so I'd rather get that later on as an upgrade.
Hi guys!

2.0 bar on E85 without any mitigation with that setup will be risky for the rods. I think the stock VVTi cams will limit you HP wise but I'd bet that combo would go mid-high 600's easy. A set of GSC's would put you into the 700whp range, I'm almost certain. Surprisingly, not a lot of GTX35's on 2JZ's for some reason.

As others have said it's not the peak HP, it's the tq between 3 and 4500ish that really murders the stock rods on small turbo, high boost, big torque E85 cars.

Easiest way to mitigate the problem though is to run the boost control through your ECU, and have it ramp boost up from ~16psi to 2 bar starting at 4500rpm or so, which keeps the suddenly ALL THE FUCKING BOOST hitting those rods at ~3500rpm. The problem is similar to big HP nitrous cars, which is why they tend to run RPM based window switches and progressive nitrous for big setups.
So keeping the boost limited to 16-18psi below 4500rpm and ramping in more boost progressively until 5200 or so should help keep it all together.

Typically, rod death on stock 2JZ's is around 650wtq. Your larger 1.06 housing (good choice) will mitigate that issue somewhat and help your top end too. Should be a fun combo and make decent HP out to ~7k or so on the stock cams. I'd seriously consider a set of GSC's or similar cams along with a basic spring/retainer upgrade for the top end especially if you're top-end racing.
Hey man thanks for the reply exactly what I was looking for. My turbo has a modified compressor wheel rated to 78lbs of air a minute so with stock cams and E85 I'm confident it will make around mid 600WHP. I'd love to throw some GSC VVTi S1 cams at it but I'm the type of guy to while I'm there go shimless buckets and get expensive springs/retainers. I'd rather use that as an upgrade in the future. I'm sure that would get me past 700WHP. I'll make sure to voice my concerns to the tuner about ramping in the boost to keep the rods safe between 3500 to 5200 rpm at WOT. Will update when my car is up and running in the next few months.