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Single turbo install.....how to properly cap the waterline nipple?

23K views 29 replies 24 participants last post by  NJsupraA70  
#1 ·
hello you all
I am trying to cap the two waterline nipples.
I was goig to just cap it with the vaccume caps and simply clamp them, but my friend said his shit splits in half after 100miles of driving.

I was just wondering what other people would suggest me on doing? Other than welding, because I would rather have it NOT welded.

Image


it's that one I am talking about.

thanks in advance you all!
 
#4 ·
Remove the line and pinch the nipple closed and then weld it up. Then replace the rubber elbow hose with a section of stainless steel. That elbow is close to the downpipe and if you blow that elbow you'll dump slippery coolant in front of the rear wheels and that is a VERY dangerous thing, particularly if it happens when you're putting down 600+ whp at high speeds. Do it right because this is an important safety issue.
 
#5 ·
As far as the 2 nipples on the top water neck/upper radiator pipe. Those are pressed in so take a vice grip and a hammer and just hammer them out. Do not bother tapping that for 1/8 NPT its a waste of time and might cause a leak. Get some 1/8 NPT allen plugs. Like this:

Image


The hole is real close to 1/8" NPT as it is and tapping it might cause a loose fitting seal. Instead this elbow is soft aluminum just wrap the NPT plug in teflon, line it up straight and just press and turn it into place the plug will self tap right into the soft aluminum and make a super water tight seal just don't ever back em out.

As far as the lower water pump nipple and the one back near the firewall, get some coolant hose that fits the nipple and then find a bolt that fits into the hose tightly. Pick a bolt that isn't threaded all the way up but rather the kind where only 2/3 of the bolt are threaded. Take a cut off wheel and cut most of threads just leave a few threads there for something for the hose clamp to bite into incase they try to back out. Just clamp em on and wala. Try to keep them short as possible.
 
#6 ·
Kal said:
As far as the 2 nipples on the top water neck/upper radiator pipe. Those are pressed in so take a vice grip and a hammer and just hammer them out. Do not bother tapping that for 1/8 NPT its a waste of time and might cause a leak. Get some 1/8 NPT allen plugs. Like this:

Image


The hole is real close to 1/8" NPT as it is and tapping it might cause a loose fitting seal. Instead this elbow is soft aluminum just wrap the NPT plug in teflon, line it up straight and just press and turn it into place the plug will self tap right into the soft aluminum and make a super water tight seal just don't ever back em out.

As far as the lower water pump nipple and the one back near the firewall, get some coolant hose that fits the nipple and then find a bolt that fits into the hose tightly. Pick a bolt that isn't threaded all the way up but rather the kind where only 2/3 of the bolt are threaded. Take a cut off wheel and cut most of threads just leave a few threads there for something for the hose clamp to bite into incase they try to back out. Just clamp em on and wala. Try to keep them short as possible.

UHHHHH NO. NPT plugs are not self tapping. Get a 1/8-27NPT tap, use some gear oil and the correct tap drill size and do it right. Then use teflon tape to seal the threads. Do not tap too deep or your plug will drop thru the hole (the tap is tapered, the farther you tap, the bigger the hole).

For the coolant piping in the back, weld it shut is the best method. I mad a plug for it and it hasn't come loose. Avoid using hoses in this area.
 
#10 ·
Aluminum in the elbow is so soft that plug taps its self in. Mine went in perfect like that. By the way this was after a guy who has been maching parts for freaking ever looked at it and said don't bother with a tap it might cause it to leak. He was right went in with minimal effort and sealed tight.

98mkiv said:
UHHHHH NO. NPT plugs are not self tapping. Get a 1/8-27NPT tap, use some gear oil and the correct tap drill size and do it right. Then use teflon tape to seal the threads. Do not tap too deep or your plug will drop thru the hole (the tap is tapered, the farther you tap, the bigger the hole).

For the coolant piping in the back, weld it shut is the best method. I mad a plug for it and it hasn't come loose. Avoid using hoses in this area.
 
#12 ·
yeah if you use aluminum plugs I'm not sure how that might work out as then you have two soft materials and nothing to cut its groove in. nice job polishing. I have seen some supras where the elbow has no trace ever of nipples, even the square blocky part where the nipples were is not there, its just smooth pipe how do they get that???? Must grind and fill or something?
 
#15 ·
I use the aluminum Earls plugs in the front that HAVE to be tapped. In the back I used a hard rubber cap found in the 'Help' section at most parts stores with a worm clamp. I'm on my second cap in maybe 12k miles after the first sprung a pin hole leak.
 
#16 ·
Kal said:
yeah if you use aluminum plugs I'm not sure how that might work out as then you have two soft materials and nothing to cut its groove in. nice job polishing. I have seen some supras where the elbow has no trace ever of nipples, even the square blocky part where the nipples were is not there, its just smooth pipe how do they get that???? Must grind and fill or something?
Here's an old picture of my engine bay. Had the holes filled and ground down.

Image
 
#17 ·
Some of you are talking about the water neck at the front of the engine. The poster is talking about the little nipple back by the firewall.

Here's mine :) Hose with a bolt threaded into the other end and clamped down. It's been fine since last January.

Image
 
#18 ·
DrMike said:
Some of you are talking about the water neck at the front of the engine. The poster is talking about the little nipple back by the firewall.

Here's mine :) Hose with a bolt threaded into the other end and clamped down. It's been fine since last January.

Image

thanks for the info you all, yea I've done this method.
 
#21 ·
lowboost said:
how would that have been better than just a nipple?
Do you mean a "cap?" If so, caps are generally short term solutions and will eventually leak -- some are very weak. A thick, reinforced hose like shown in the photo will probably last a lot longer.

I still say if you want to PROPERLY cap the line and address that entire area, you should WELD the nipple up and you should WELD in an elbow to replace that rubber line. You may drive 10K miles without it blowing out, but to me there's something discomforting about knowing that theres's a rubber line carrying slippery coolant a half inch away from a 1000+ degree downpipe. I want mine stainless steel. Now, if the question were, What can I get away with? I'd say keep the rubber elbow, wrap it, and keep an eye on it. But IMO, that's not PROPERLY doing it.
 
#22 ·
Since the search function is not working, I figured I would post this in here.

I just ordered a DBB turbo that is water cooled, and I was wondering where the feed and return lines are going to need to be run from?

Thanks in advance
 
#23 ·
go to member list, go to my username and search all threads started by me....the answer is there.

Jason

EDIT...Nevermind, that shit dont work either. I am getting fucking pissed! At least with the fucked up SEARCH, I could still find the info I needed!!!!!!!!