Hmmm....makes sense on why it could work, I've never tried it, but you should do it and report back...that would make the minor change of cleaning up my engine bay a tiny bit...It looks kind of nasty with my soldered/electrical taped up wires right above my compressor.

 

Alrighty, took the Sup out to the fireworks tonight. Drove around for about half hour, boosted quite often :naughty: no cel's at all. Before I couldn't drive 10 minutes without it popping on. So I'd have to say it works just fine.

 

cool trick, I had been wondering about that in the past, but since, I've just cut my O2's out completely (gettin signal from wideband)

 

heh thats cool i will keep this in mind. thanks for the test!

 

Ok...so let me just double check how you did this...you put a paper clip in the diagnostics port for the 2 O2 sensors...then you just plugged one of your O2 sensors into your downpipe and connected it to one of your harnesses and left the other harness open? If that's what you did, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna run out and do that tomorrow...

 

I always thought it was done on the back of the ecu?

 

Im suprised that works...

The primary O2 (bank one cell one) is used for closed loop feedback to adjust STFT and LTFT

The secondary O2 (bank two cell one) is used to ensure the cat is working properly

Bank two is bank one with less amplitude (if you were to look at it with a spectrometer)

so, if your paperclip is luckily some how changing the signal you just found the easiest solution ever!

 

Ok...so let me just double check how you did this...you put a paper clip in the diagnostics port for the 2 O2 sensors...then you just plugged one of your O2 sensors into your downpipe and connected it to one of your harnesses and left the other harness open? If that's what you did, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna run out and do that tomorrow...

That is exactly what I did...

 

Im suprised that works...

The primary O2 (bank one cell one) is used for closed loop feedback to adjust STFT and LTFT

The secondary O2 (bank two cell one) is used to ensure the cat is working properly

Bank two is bank one with less amplitude (if you were to look at it with a spectrometer)

so, if your paperclip is luckily some how changing the signal you just found the easiest solution ever!

Both of my O2's were in the stock downpipes/headers. I did not have any post cat. I don't know if how you described is how my car is looking at it? or is that how Toyota wired all the cars and mine is not even "using" the O2#2 port. Like I said somehow it helped/fixed the O2 cels I kept throwing previously.

 

Awesome idea, glad to hear it works!

 

Why is everyone congratulating him if he doesnt even know if it works?

The title is "an idea I had, will this work?"

 

Splicing O2 sensor heater and signal wires are a common fix in IS300 turbo projects. it ensures that both banks are getting the same signal so there are not any lean/rich variations.

It also allows the car to be simplified and work off of 1 o2 sensor and one possible o2 sim for the post cat sensor.

If you guys have any questions, feel free to hit me up as I have done this o2 crap time and time again for cars that I have boosted.

Except we didnt do it all ghetto with a paperclip
I cut the wires at the ECU and jumper the correct ends and tape off and label the unused ends.

You can verify results with an ECU Scanner. I use an Autotap to monitor the sensor voltages to verify things are working correctly. www.autotap.com

 

I had a similar solution, but this was to fix the MAP-ECU from slowly leaning itself out.
What I did (and this was because my downpipe only had one bung) was to completely unplug both stock o2s (the two that were in the header), and leave the one at the cat dangling around but not connected. This elimination of stock o2s seems to force the ecu into 100% limp mode, which means that it reads off the map-ecu table 100% of the time.
This allows my cruising and idle a/fs to be perfect and my wot a/f to be at 11.5 and has never moved since I tuned it 2+ months ago.

 

I also had success using an O2 sim for the post cat sensor and using the Split Second ESC-1 Open Loop signal conditioner box to limit the ECU relearning and leaning out the maps under boost. kepts me at about 11.8-12.1 under steady 12-14psi.

 

Why is everyone congratulating him if he doesnt even know if it works?

The title is "an idea I had, will this work?"

Because he tried it and it did work...that is awesome because it really would do away with the need to try to extend the O2 wires during turbo installs. For single bung downpipes now all you have to do is bridge the two O2 ports. You can just use the O2 sensor and harness towards the back of the engine and screw the one in the front. I'm definitely going to go try this. Congrats man, that is a pretty cool little trick you discovered.

 

that is a very good idea. im going to try that as well.

 

Does this actually work? And does it work for Cali spec cars?

 

It works

 

I'm still running it this way and no problems

 

been so long since i went with an AEM EMS and a UEGO wideband, but i belive when i went NA-t my boostlogic exhaust mani had only one hole for a 02 sensor, wat me and my dad ended up doing was just splicing each of the four wires together and runing one O2 sensor, worked just fine for me, no engine codes thrown or anything like that

 

^^ Works, but overkill.
You just need to splice the signal wires together (1 wire), which is the same as doing it at the diagnostic port.
Splicing the other 3 wires together does nothing, you are just adding the grounds to grounds and positives to positives from the O2 sensor heating circuit.