Usually 40offset or higher is supra fit

 

Tires will be stretched in comparison to width of the wheels.

As for caliper clearance I know the proper fitting offset of 18x9.5 +38 will need a 3mm spacer and believe the +40 fit as is.

I doubt the rears at +22 and 275 width fit without a lot of camber. Maybe that is the look you're after?

 

18x9.5 +22 and 18x10.5 +22 doesn't fit a stock body JZA80 at all. Unless you're into lots of 'poke' past the fender, or the super stretched tire and tilted-wheel baka camber thing with tons of fender rolling, and I personally find that incredibly distasteful on a JZA80.

Neither will clear stock TT calipers, and using spacers to clear will only make the poke far worse.

In my opinion you need to call your wheel vendor and cancel that order right now.

Instead, get TE37 Saga S-Plus (not the SL) in 18x9.5+38 Face-4 for the front (use a 3mm spacer to clear the calipers) and if you absolutely must have a deeper face in the rear, get an 18x11 +45 Face-5 for the rear, which will fit like an 18x10.5 +38 as far as fender clearance goes, but it'll tuck further in towards the suspension obviously.
If you absolutely must have the SL, I'd go the same spec in front but an 18x10 +40 in the rear. This will obviously have the same Face-4 spoke profile though.

For clarity's sake:
Early/oldschool TE37's in 18x9.5 +40 with a flat face clear the stock TT calipers.
The later TE37 concave "Face-4" 18x9.5 +38 need a ~3mm spacer to clear - and not because of offset, but because of the spoke profile.

 

18x9.5 +22 and 18x10.5 +22 doesn't fit a stock body JZA80 at all. Unless you're into lots of 'poke' past the fender, or the super stretched tire and tilted-wheel baka camber thing with tons of fender rolling, and I personally find that incredibly distasteful on a JZA80.

Neither will clear stock TT calipers, and using spacers to clear will only make the poke far worse.

In my opinion you need to call your wheel vendor and cancel that order right now.

Instead, get TE37 Saga S-Plus (not the SL) in 18x9.5+38 Face-4 for the front (use a 3mm spacer to clear the calipers) and if you absolutely must have a deeper face in the rear, get an 18x11 +45 Face-5 for the rear, which will fit like an 18x10.5 +38 as far as fender clearance goes, but it'll tuck further in towards the suspension obviously.
If you absolutely must have the SL, I'd go the same spec in front but an 18x10 +40 in the rear. This will obviously have the same Face-4 spoke profile though.

For clarity's sake:
Early/oldschool TE37's in 18x9.5 +40 with a flat face clear the stock TT calipers.
The later TE37 concave "Face-4" 18x9.5 +38 need a ~3mm spacer to clear - and not because of offset, but because of the spoke profile.

View attachment 296898

The 18x9.5 +38 Saga S-Plus I ordered is a Face 3, the most negative offset Face 3 there is in that width. I don't know if they changed it when it was first introduced, but the reason I got it is because the Face 3 wouldn't need a spacer and clear the TT as well as Endless brakes. I might be missing something.

I also ordered the 18x11 +45 for the rears to accept 295 or 315/30, based partly on a post where you recommended this setup for a newer Rays wheels a while back.

From my understanding and from posting with the resident wheel guru here, the +22 fitment OP ordered for front and rear is unacceptable for many reasons. Caliper clearance, limited tire width choices, well on the way to "Mexiflush" fitment, particularly with spacers.

 

I’ve seen a lot of posts about the18x9.5 +38 needing a 3mm spacer, but my TT brakes cleared a +38 with plenty of room..

 

9.5 +38 will fit nicely. If the face/concave is similar to SL then you'll need that 3mm spacer.

Pics for reference. I'm running 265F (stock fenders) and 305R cut rears but my offset would work with stock fenders on a 285-295mm tire.

OP - hope this helps... I'm not wanting to piss on your thread but hoping you see the benefit of proper offsets. They allow nice width for superior grip.

 

So I changed my front to +45 and rear size 10 and +40. They should fit now?

 

Front should be +40, rear +45.

 

Front should be +40, rear +45.

That's on the older TE37 offerings, my friend - an 18x9.5 +40 front 18x10.5 +45 option doesn't exist in the TE37 lineup anymore.

So I changed my front to +45 and rear size 10 and +40. They should fit now?

I'm glad you could get your order changed!

An 18x9.5 +45 front and 18x10 +40 rear will fit well. You will be able to use a small spacer front or rear to get the wheel exactly where you want it in the wheel well.

We usually run the 18x9.5 +38 in front, the +45 option will be sunken into the fender a little too much. It also might make caliper clearance even worse, but again, you can use a spacer to gain more caliper clearance.
With the 18x9.5 +38 it usually needs a 3mm spacer. With the +45 offset I would start with a 5mm spacer but you could run as much as a 10mm spacer if needed. Use hubcentric spacers, and with a 10mm spacer be sure your wheel studs are long enough to safely mount the wheel!

 

9.5 +38 will fit nicely. If the face/concave is similar to SL then you'll need that 3mm spacer.

Pics for reference. I'm running 265F (stock fenders) and 305R cut rears but my offset would work with stock fenders on a 285-295mm tire.

OP - hope this helps... I'm not wanting to piss on your thread but hoping you see the benefit of proper offsets. They allow nice width for superior grip.

Thanks for the insight, and good looking TE37s you have there. I think a lot of people get wheels with too low of an offset for clout.

Do you know which "FACE" yours are? I think the SLs in the +38 were FACE 4, but I am not certain.

Rays says the following for the S-Plus, "However, there is no change in the frontal design, and the minor changes will be reflected on the back side of the spoke shape."

I don't know if there's any standardization in their company of the face type/spoke dimensions across different models of the same diameter/width, like if a FACE 3 S-Plus 18x9.5 +38 could be equivalent to a FACE 4 SL 18x9.5 +45. But you know what? We're gonna find out!

So I changed my front to +45 and rear size 10 and +40. They should fit now?

Sounds like you got things squared away budy.

One other thing I thought of. Your original 235 fronts will have quite a lot of stretch on a 9.5" wide front wheel, so maybe you want to go with a 245/35. The 265/35 rears will likely be just about right on a 10" wide rear wheel. Within the golden .5" narrower tread width than wheel width (pre-load) people far more experienced than myself proclaim for optimal performance.

 

So shouldn't be any issues with the 18x11 +45 rear on stock fenders?

I've also got a set of Advan RZ-F2 sitting around I might try to fit up, but they are a square setup of 18x10 +40... looks like rear shouldn't be an issue but wondering about front fitment.

 

18x11 +45, well, stock fenders are real iffy on that. Maybe with a 295/35 and enough ride height. But for a normal lowered look I'd expect you to need a roll/pull on the rear fenders. 305/35 or wider/taller, absolutely would need a roll or cut.

Based on offsets from the 18x11.5 and 19x11.5 CCW's and Fikse wheels built for MK4's, I am 97-98% sure they'll fit on the inside edge the same way, but it might hit the stock shock/spring combo so coilovers are probably required.

18x10 +40 will fit up front, might need a few minor tweaks, depending on tire width/height and depending on your ride height and camber settings. Not sure about factory TT front caliper clearance on those Advans, though, and even a small spacer will be pushing the lip out of the fender real quick.

 

My plan would be to run 265/35/18 up front on the Advans and hopefully a 285/30/18 out back. I have them laying around from my Subaru STI which I ran 265/35/18 square.

I'm looking to get a 295 tire in the back if I went with the 18x11 +45 TE37s. My car currently has 18x10 +37 BBS in the rear with a 275/35/18 tire. I don't really run a super low car since my 4" PHR midpipe/downpipe combo hangs pretty low and I don't like the thought of it making contact with anything. Currently the car with the 275 tire out back spins them too easily.

 

I dunno what kind of power you're putting down, but I don't want drag radials for a litany of reasons, so here's my plan.

Front: 265/35 (stock diameter) A052s on 18x9.5 +38 S-Plus.

Rear: 295/30 (stock diameter) or 315/30 (about .5" greater than stock diameter) A052s on the 18x11 +45 S-Plus

Trofeo Rs and GY F1s are supposed to hold well in a straight line for a circuit tire too. The most common option is probably the R888R. One of the Rad Dan customer builds Larry Chen did an expose on used the Toyos, I think it was the 305/35 R888Rs, that were right at the cusp of breaking loose at 650-700whp with a well tuned Borg Warner 8374.

 

Everyone is worried about offsets but the biggest factor for caliper clearance is the face design of the wheel. You can have the perfect offset but the face will hit the caliper.

Oh, a +22 is no bueno.

R.K.

 

Here you go for face types

 

I dunno what kind of power you're putting down, but I don't want drag radials for a litany of reasons, so here's my plan.

Front: 265/35 (stock diameter) A052s on 18x9.5 +38 S-Plus.

Rear: 295/30 (stock diameter) or 315/30 (about .5" greater than stock diameter) A052s on the 18x11 +45 S-Plus

Trofeo Rs and GY F1s are supposed to hold well in a straight line for a circuit tire too. The most common option is probably the R888R. One of the Rad Dan customer builds Larry Chen did an expose on used the Toyos, I think it was the 305/35 R888Rs, that were right at the cusp of breaking loose at 650-700whp with a well tuned Borg Warner 8374.

Having done 295/30's on an 18x10.5, I wouldn't do it again. I would go 285/35 or 295/35 and adjust the suspension as needed to end up with the same wheel gap/fender clearance etc. I think the A052's are available in a 295/35.

The taller tire and more sidewall pays huge dividends on straightline traction with any given tire compound. Yes, there's a tire height difference, but it's not enough to mess with the factory ABS system or anything like that.

Alignment settings also make a huge difference in straightline traction. Baseline with the 'Lance Alignment' specs and adjust from there, reducing camber further depending on rear suspension stiffness & travel etc.

My car is likely going to be in the 550-600 rwhp range once I finish my transmission upgrades and get back on the dyno. The factory clutch is limiting me right now.

I just want a setup that will work without fender modification.

It'll be pretty close on your existing BBS 18x10 +37's and 100% unmodified/uncut/unrolled fenders, but I'd advise trying a sticky 275/40 or 285/35 with those wheels before giving up and going with new wheels. More tire height and sidewall is key for straightline traction.

 

Having done 295/30's on an 18x10.5, I wouldn't do it again. I would go 285/35 or 295/35 and adjust the suspension as needed to end up with the same wheel gap/fender clearance etc. I think the A052's are available in a 295/35.

The taller tire and more sidewall pays huge dividends on straightline traction with any given tire compound. Yes, there's a tire height difference, but it's not enough to mess with the factory ABS system or anything like that.

Alignment settings also make a huge difference in straightline traction. Baseline with the 'Lance Alignment' specs and adjust from there, reducing camber further depending on rear suspension stiffness & travel etc.

I really appreciate the advice. The A052s are a bit wider than typical for their size group. A quick look on Tire Rack shows the following for the A052s:

295/30: 25.1" OD - 11.2" Tread

295/35: 26.2" OD - 11" Tread

315/30: 25.6" OD - 11.9" Tread

I bet the extra inch of diameter from the 35 aspect ratio is plenty effective at making the gearing noticeably taller. I first read about the "Lance alignment" here years ago, I believe you were recommending it to another member in a similar boat. I'm going to go either with the 295/35 or 315/30, get some nice FIGS stuff, do the Lance alignment, and go from there.