I'm going to be using this one. I should actually start the car for the first time in june.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-tr2cd-multi-plate-racing-clutch-kit.html

It is still a sprung hub, so it should be fair on the street, but it also has higher clamping force.

 

i forgot about that one. i think its second highest on their chart. really id like to get the one thats most street able with lightish pedal but wont slip. and i assumed that one would be worse than the TS. also the confusing thing is theres no place to enter that you need the 1jz one so idk how youd place an order for it lol. ive looked forever and the annoying this is people say yeah i have the os giken twin and i like it. but they rarely say what one they have and haven't found one post about someone with the str with r154 and how much its held for them. one guy with a mk2 had one was saying he liked it how it drives a lot but never ran lots of boost with it. they're all pretty close in price i guess the safe bet would be to get the TR like you plan on then i know it will hold a lot but then its like is the clamping force close to a heavy single which is what id like to avoid. i just rebuilt my trans last summer with all the goodies and had to get a whole parts car to get a trans cause theyre so hard to find without paying up the ass. so something that doesn't shock load it is what im after. plus avoiding risk of crank walk.

I can certainly see where you are coming from but do you really need to step up to a twin disc? Or are you just most worried about street driving on a big single disc?

I only ask because my previous car put 540 to the tires on pump gas and I had the now RPS Stage 3 (formerly RPS Sprung Max) and beat the ever living SHIT out of it on a daily basis. I drove it everyday, countless hard launches, autocrosses, street races, etc etc and I never had an issue with it. When the engine blew, I took the clutch out and it still had plenty of life left.

The only downside, and I didn't personally consider it a downside, is the pedal feel/pressure. It's a hard clutch to push in and is a little sensitive to get moving and going, but just like any clutch, you get used to it. I loved the feel and got used to it in a hurry.

It also has a 730tq capacity. It might be worth looking at if you haven't already.

yeah i know about the rps but isn't it basically like the act xtreme? i know the act xtreme will hold the power and its only like 700 but don't those tend to cause crank walk? the rps is like 850 prolly like 900 shipped and at that point id be willing to pay the extra for a twin since its not too far away in cost. if the twins are that much lighter clamping force and the two disk engaging are easier on the trans it seems worth it in the long run. gonna read a little more about the act xtreme i guess. but i thought the consensus was really heavy pressure plate equal crank walk.

and im hard on my car too. i don't just do some hw pulls on occasion. i prolly make close to 100 passes at the drag strip each year and autocross every month and do some track days. might do the local hill climb this year too. the action 6 puck that im on hold low 400's great but once i got close to 500 it started to not be too happy. and now with the turbo im on this year its really not happy

 

I can certainly see where you are coming from but do you really need to step up to a twin disc? Or are you just most worried about street driving on a big single disc?

I only ask because my previous car put 540 to the tires on pump gas and I had the now RPS Stage 3 (formerly RPS Sprung Max) and beat the ever living SHIT out of it on a daily basis. I drove it everyday, countless hard launches, autocrosses, street races, etc etc and I never had an issue with it. When the engine blew, I took the clutch out and it still had plenty of life left.

The only downside, and I didn't personally consider it a downside, is the pedal feel/pressure. It's a hard clutch to push in and is a little sensitive to get moving and going, but just like any clutch, you get used to it. I loved the feel and got used to it in a hurry.

It also has a 730tq capacity. It might be worth looking at if you haven't already.

 

If you want to stay with a single clutch, then look at the Southbend clutches. They have a good reputation for light pedal feel and holding big power. I'm going to change my ACT Xtreme to the Southbend stage 3 endurance (rated at 660 ft/lb) soon to get a lighter pedal.

 

rps carbon twin disc

 

+1 for the TR2CD Os Giken.

As Trent said, you get used to the pedal feel and engagement pretty quick. Also, I like the rattle it makes, sounds more like jingle bells.

 

I was at an fork in the road with this issue as well. I am/was trying to choose a clutch. I want to make around 600hp so I decided to go with a South Bend. I called South bend and told them what I was trying to make and he said running a full ceramic disk with their heavier pressure plate they are rated at 600ftlbs. I will add he said 600ftlbs was under rating that set up. I was going to pull the trigger on and ORC rated for 700 but it was double the price. I had great luck with the SB clutch in my DSM. I won't have my car running for a month or so but I can let you know how it works out. The twin disk wasn't in my budget at the time. It was 780$ for the SB clutch kit out the door. The ORC was roughly 1600$. If I was shooting for 650+ ftlbs of torque I would be going twin disk. Probably ORC. In my case I had to draw the line somewhere and make my build fit my budget because a clutch isn't all that I need to finish it right now.

 

I was at an fork in the road with this issue as well. I am/was trying to choose a clutch. I want to make around 600hp so I decided to go with a South Bend. I called South bend and told them what I was trying to make and he said running a full ceramic disk with their heavier pressure plate they are rated at 600ftlbs. I will add he said 600ftlbs was under rating that set up. ....

Why not the SB stage 3 endurance, rated at 660 ft/lb. It is a Kevlar disc so is very street drivable? Is it because you will be drag racing with the ceramic one? I'm still trying to work out which SB one will be best for me.

 

Sorry, I was looking at the mk4 clutches. Your comment about running a full ceramic disk with their heavier pressure plate sounds good for me as well. I'll check with SB if they can do one for their mkiv stage 4 PP as well?

 

soooooooooo i ordered the os giken TS2CD. heres how i came to my conclusion. i couldn't find any info showing the str could hold good power and its rated low on os gikens hp chart. the orc couldn't find anyone running decent hp with one, 200mm disk, highish rebuild cost, flywheel and dowels or whatever they're called that hold the plates doesn't look as well designed as os giken or exedy. didn't want the exedy cause of high rebuild cost and 200mm disk compared to 215mm disk on the TS. that left the os giken TS. its the clutch that when most people say they have a os giken twin thats what they have. its proven to hold a lot like multiple people in the 700`s and take a beating. so i went for it. and the rebuild kit is 500 from rhd so thats not bad at all compared to going through single disk cause thats what seems to happen north of 450whp unless all you do is hw pulls. or go with the really heavy pressure plate but after reading more and going with my gut feeling its that those are hard on the trans and thrust washers. then the risk that if i don't like it or it doesn't hold up well im out 800 bucks and have to get a twin anyway.

didn't go with the tr series cause of heavier pressure plate and i think its overkill for my setup. i'll let you guys know how i like it when it shows up and i install it!

and the carbon is over kill too id say and seems to not drive well on the street from what people say. something about having to slip it a lot gets it hot and it bites too hard.

 

Sounds good. I'll wait to her your review of it.

 

hopefully it doesn't take forever to show up!

Too bad I just saw this today. I have a used HKS twin JZ-R154 clutch that I'm going to sell. I'd have to recheck, but the discs are 4.1mm IIRC so plenty of life. Need about half of what those are..

Anybody else looking for a good clutch, lmk

yeah i think i would have passed anyway since its hard to source parts for and hks twins look like theyre way more expensive to rebuild than the giken or exedy or orc. but thanks im sure somebody will buy it if the price is right.

 

Too bad I just saw this today. I have a used HKS twin JZ-R154 clutch that I'm going to sell. I'd have to recheck, but the discs are 4.1mm IIRC so plenty of life. Need about half of what those are..

Anybody else looking for a good clutch, lmk

 

figured id update this post. i finally got my clutch this past friday. there was a hold up with customs but rhdjapan was fast to sort out the issue and get them the paper work they needed. was something about a more detail description of goods. it was like Christmas though i was pretty excited been waiting for a while to get it lol. i worked on getting it installed that evening i pulled my trans earlier that week cause it was suppose to show up wednesday so i had a head start. the directions were all in Japanese which made putting it in fun!




i was a little confused on the movement alteration kit. there was a cone shaped spring that i couldn't figure out what it was for at first. lots of the pics of the kit on the r154 theres a return spring on the guide pin so thats what i thought it was at first. in the pic on the instuctions i thought maybe it went on the back side of the pin. then ended up finding a thread where some guy was confused also and contacted os giken and in the updated version theres no return spring on the guide. the cone spring goes on the new slave cylinder rod im guessing to help keep it centered.





in the clutch directions i could tell by the pics that they were showing the flywheel bolts needed to be cut down. i put the flywheel on with two bolts and checked the depth. it was really close to the length of the arp flywheel bolts i had on the stock flywheel so i cut them down a little to make sure they wouldn't bottom out.


then i wasn't sure if i was suppose to put it all on the input shaft like how you normally install the trans but then came to the conclusion keeping all the disks and plates together would be a total pita plus torquing all the bolts down for the pressure plate in multiple passes so i figured it had to be installed like most push type clutches. the clutch doesn't come with an alignment tool either but luckily i had something handy that would get the job done. i knew i blew up that trans for a reason lol





to get the trans in i had to jack up the front of the engine that way it angled down more to get the input shaft in. without doing that the bell housing hit the trans tunnel. was quite the ordeal but i got it in friday and wrapped it up saturday morning.

when i first backed out of the garage i like shot out of there cause it engaged so hard and i wasn't used to the engagement point at all :lol: it was cool though cause it didn't chatter at all or feel harsh engaging just really quickly engaged and made the the car freaking move! i pushed the clutch back it right away though to keep me from ramming my neighbors house hahaa. i drove the car around all day through the local towns trying to start from a stop as much as possible to get used to it. then later that evening went to the local street legals to make a couple passes. im sorta bad at waiting for breakin periods lol. but i don't think metalic clutches need much of a breakin. i only made like 4 passes i think 12.3 was my fastest they weren't printing out slips so i had my friends looking. was able to run 18psi though and it didn't slip at all pulls pretty good too. the pedal is a little stiff but nothing crazy and i got used to driving it for the most part. and it doesn't make much rattle noise at all with the clutch in. you have to really try to hear it or be in a enclose area. so thats nice. seems like my trans shifts a little better now too. im happy with it though and now when somebody else gets one they can know how and what to expect with the install.

oh and heres where i found the torque specs for the flywheel and pressure plate

http://www.osgiken.net/upload/d42.pdf

 

os giken does make their own alignment tool. Its machined out of a chunk of steel and costs about 80 bucks.

Good that your enjoying it. I'm excited to get mine in the car.

 

im sure you'll like it! you can tell the parts are well made and thought out. was very impressed with it all. i forgot to mention that i weighed my old clutch, flywheel, and throw out bearing and it was 42-43lbs and according to rhdjapan website it looks like the os giken ts2cd is about 33lbs. so its 10lbs lighter i wanted to weigh it but i forgot to that way i could see for myself what it weighs but im sure rhdjapan info is correct.

and i know we all like videos heres one of a car like mine racing my buddys rb26 silvia with pt6262 running 420whp @15psi.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ix4dFRVK_zs&feature=youtu.be

 

Just looking for any updates on this.

I just bought a STR twin from RHDjapan, because I know what the OS Tr twin felt like and I dind't like how stiff it was. I'm hoping the red top cover will do the trick for me as I'm on upgraded twins and plan form no more than 600RWTQ at max. Hopefully, we are all good in the hood. Just wondering if you have updates to this? I know my friend still loves his TR billet faced OS.

 

Just looking for any updates on this.

I just bought a STR twin from RHDjapan, because I know what the OS TS twin felt like and I dind't like how stiff it was. I'm hoping the red top cover will do the trick for me as I'm on upgraded twins and plan form no more than 600RWTQ at max. Hopefully, we are all good in the hood. Just wondering if you have updates to this? I know my friend still loves his TR billet faced OS.

This is one of the best 4 year bumps I've seen. Eric - keep us posted on how that STR works out for you!

 

So I have some big news....

Clutch came in, but I ordered what I thought was a flywheel bolt kit from RHDJapan, but turns out its actually just one flywheel bolt.

Anyways, first unboxing pics are here, with some other goodies like a TRD shifter and Boss steering adapter and some mufflers for my SC.

 

Could you look back at your order and advise on the Bolts PN?
I am doing R154 swap into MK4 2jzGE.

I called OS Giken USA and asked for their Flywheel Bolt PN that is needed for the r154 STR2CD
They said that their 2JZ and 1JZ Fywheel bolts are the same ( PN ty031-E000l)

In an older thread in the MK4 section

https://www.supraforums.com/threads/guys-with-r154-only-need-good-clutch.571598/post-7294794

Jeff state that you need 1JZ GTE Flywheel bolts because they are shorter that the v160
But its posted in the MK4 Section and says "i just wouldn't cut the 2JZ ones" so im not sure if the w58 vs v160 are different lengths

and RHD japan just has them listed as JZA70 bolts ( PN 111503_2589708 )

because even the ARP bolts say 4AG!!

Thanks

 

1 bolt? I'd be looking at the box as if it had 4 sides -_-







Jk lol. I'd be confused though

 

Black89T can you tell me where the taper bolt goes for the OS alteration kit? The instructions are hideously bad and the translations are worse.

 

i'm not sure what bolt your talking. there's one that has a guide pin on it but it's actually pretty straight forward it will only go on one way since it has to line up with the slave cylinder rod.

I've been researching OS Giken twin disc clutches and you guys are swaying me to the STR2CD, and TS2CD. I was also looking at the GTS2CD "Grand Touring" twin with their floating disc system that is supposed to keep down rattle but I have heard mixed reviews on how hard you can push the GTS (not just with power output but driving style also) versus other higher spec OSG clutches.

I'm on a stock 2JZGTE (Export/US spec) on stock sequential boost (10-12psi) with an R154 and currently I'm on a SouthBend Stage 3 Daily (copper-organic disc) clutch kit which is good for most normal use but can slip on me with too much heat buildup when I push it hard. Don't get me wrong, it's a fine clutch most of the time for the 340hp/350tq or so that the engine puts out but I do have to take care not to overheat the disc when accelerating quickly from a stop or at low speeds which will cause some slip so I'll give a little pause between shifts when I have briefly gone into full boost very quickly.

I'm interested in going with a stronger clutch that can handle more than this one will but which will not put unnecessary pressure on the crank's rear thrust bearing (ie: to avoid crankwalk as others have also stated). I'm not concerned about this with SB but I do think it's time for a twin disc overall.

For the fun qualities I'm looking for I really just want worry-free power holding at the power level I'm at, as much DD friendliness as I can hope for in a twin disc clutch and the ability to accelerate flat out or kick it sideways on a track without the clutch slipping. Although really this is a 98% daily driver so track use will be pretty rare for me.

The STR2CD has the movement alteration kit included and that one looks like the best value until power levels increase significantly. Black89T you seem to be very happy with your OSG TS series. ZaZZn how do you like your STR?

For a car that's under 500whp with a r154 you really don't need a twin disk. i ran the action 6 puck from drift motion for a while on my hx35 which held that hp well. there was chatter though from the puck disk. i think there's some full faces out there now that can hold similar power but will have a much smoother engagement since it's not a puck clutch. i recall alec the 7m guy having great luck with clutch masters.

 

I've been researching OS Giken twin disc clutches and you guys are swaying me to the STR2CD, and TS2CD. I was also looking at the GTS2CD "Grand Touring" twin with their floating disc system that is supposed to keep down rattle but I have heard mixed reviews on how hard you can push the GTS (not just with power output but driving style also) versus other higher spec OSG clutches.

I'm on a stock 2JZGTE (Export/US spec) on stock sequential boost (10-12psi) with an R154 and currently I'm on a SouthBend Stage 3 Daily (copper-organic disc) clutch kit which is good for most normal use but can slip on me with too much heat buildup when I push it hard. Don't get me wrong, it's a fine clutch most of the time for the 340hp/350tq or so that the engine puts out but I do have to take care not to overheat the disc when accelerating quickly from a stop or at low speeds which will cause some slip so I'll give a little pause between shifts when I have briefly gone into full boost very quickly.

I'm interested in going with a stronger clutch that can handle more than this one will but which will not put unnecessary pressure on the crank's rear thrust bearing (ie: to avoid crankwalk as others have also stated). I'm not concerned about this with SB but I do think it's time for a twin disc overall.

For the fun qualities I'm looking for I really just want worry-free power holding at the power level I'm at, as much DD friendliness as I can hope for in a twin disc clutch and the ability to accelerate flat out or kick it sideways on a track without the clutch slipping. Although really this is a 98% daily driver so track use will be pretty rare for me.

The STR2CD has the movement alteration kit included and that one looks like the best value until power levels increase significantly. Black89T you seem to be very happy with your OSG TS series. ZaZZn how do you like your STR?

 

My twin isn't installed yet, what was first a clutch job turned into an engine refresh... Then chassis swap.... LOL. I'm sending the chassis to paint this week and should be reassembling the engine as well. changed everything on the engine externally. New pump, alt, starter, timing belt seals... Upgraded twins...

SO...... yeah.


^^^^ stock twins on my 2jz was also getting 325 FT tq at 1500-1800 RPM I wasn't slipping on a single disc, but when the second twin came on... Couldn't hold with my stock PP and 6 puck fermaic disc. I have a single disc with upgraded PP and 6 puck ceramic disc that I was originally going to use, but I've broken straps far too many times and did not want to go back into the transmission for a long time. This is why I just said F it and bought the OSG.

I was told the same thing by the rep at OSG, and the more I think about it the more I think he's full of fucking shit and just wants to move product he has in stock. He's just a reseller of OSG japan, nothing more. Making a quick buck... I bought mine from RHDJapan because even after shipping and retail it was STILL cheaper than OSG usa with vendors over here. If you really want a twin disc and you are NOT in a rush I'm developing a twin disc very similar to OSG that will cost about the same as a single when you add the cost of a flywheel in. I'm looking for a test mule.

I believe the OSG green covers are very much just as good if not better than the regular ones it's just that OSG USA brought in stock and needs to unload it, I think I may have made a mistake based on this dipshits response at OSG... They all look like they use the same disc material, and in fact, they all use the same pressure which is around 1500 for 1 pressure plate and 3000 lbs for "hard". I didn't know that green had a floating design.

Or you can buy my single 2600 LB PP and 6 puck cermaic (very similar to ACT) for 550 with flywheel (all brand new)

 

^^ I bought my flywheel bolts for my OS Giken STR-2CD clutch kit from Driftmotion. They sell cut down ARP 1JZ/2JZ flywheel bolts specifically for the OS twin disc clutches.

I don’t have the part numbers for OS Giken’s own flywheel bolts that they sell but they should be listed by part number in the downloadable PDF translated instruction manual for your clutch on the OS Giken USA website.

 

Funny, I sold this before I ever used it; I ended up buying a T56 over Black Friday this year... I've been down still since I had a son 2020 and a daughter in 2022... Sooo zero time.

 

oh dam. i dont have the $$$ for the T56 swap
Could you check your RHD Japan account for the order for the proper PN on clutch bolts? would really help me out

 

P/N: JZA70 (111503) | SKU: 111503 (RHDJapan)

- RHDJapan

RHDJapan offers the best quality performance parts made in Japan including Nismo, Mugen, Defi, Spoon, Cusco, Tomei, HKS and other JDM brands.

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