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Correct way to burb the cooling system from air? Coolant pours out of radiator.

22K views 20 replies 15 participants last post by  Krister  
#1 ·
I had my waterneck glasbead blasted and I had to let the water out of the system. After I put it back in I havent been able to burb the system out of air, when I drive the car and give it gas it over heats in a second and goes to normal temp as fast. It also pushes the coolant off from the overflow bottle when I shut down the car.

Now I'm 99.99% sure I dont have a BHG because this started after I took off the waterneck.

I had the car parked on a hill today and tried to burb the system for 30min but every time we filled it with water it took a second and the water would pour out of the radiator all over my engine bay. Why the *uck does it do that? Is it the trapped air inside the radiator that pushes the water out or what? It pisses me off, I just polished my engine bay and now its fucking full of coolant because it pours it out of the radiator every time I try to fill it. If I put the radiator cap on it, the water pours out of the overflow tank.

So, what's the easiest way to get the air out? I'm going to buy a new radiator cap tomorrow, but how do I stop the water from rushing out from the radiator? Should I pour the water in more slowly or what..? The thermostat was replaced last winter when my rebuild was done.

Thanks for any advice.
 
#2 ·
K here's what you do (I know first hand, because I did this many times)
You should use: bucket, turkey baster (JUST READ ;))


After the car has been sitting for a night, fill the radiator in the morning, THEN fill the overflow. Drive somewhere close that has the biggest incline you can find, the bigger the better. Turn off the car, pop open the hood, make sure the car isn't at operating temp yet, if it is, wait till it cools down. Remove the radiator cap, start the car, and put the heater on full blast. This will ensure that the entire cooling system is being circulated and will get out any air that's still trapped in the heater lines or anywhere else for that matter. Now here's the fun part, you have to watch for when the coolant starts rising, and suck it up with the turkey baster (From the top of the rad. where the cap goes) and put it in the bucket so it doesn't overflow. So what will happen is it will rise due to air, you'll remove coolant, the air bubble will come out, and the coolant level will drop. Then, it will probably do it again, maybe a couple more times. Then, the next morning, pop open the radiator cap, top it off, and once again top off the overflow bottle.

NOTE: If it keeps burping, the air doesn't stop, your thermostat is probably done and you need to get a new one, I recommend a 180 degree. New rad. caps never hurt either, the more pressure with the cap, the more it raises the boiling point of the coolant mixture.

Hope this helped, love your car ;)
 
#4 ·
AGlobalThreat said:
Now here's the fun part, you have to watch for when the coolant starts rising, and suck it up with the turkey baster (From the top of the rad. where the cap goes) and put it in the bucket so it doesn't overflow. So what will happen is it will rise due to air, you'll remove coolant, the air bubble will come out, and the coolant level will drop. Then, it will probably do it again, maybe a couple more times. Then, the next morning, pop open the radiator cap, top it off, and once again top off the overflow bottle.

Hope this helped, love your car ;)

Are you sure? Why do I want to suck out the water with the turkey baster? Wouldnt it just get more air in because there isnt enough water in the system when I keep sucking it out?

Why do I have to wait till the next morning top it off again? This shit cant be this hard... :confused:

And what causes the water rushing out from the radiator to my engine bay? Is it because of the air in the system?

Thanks for the compliments!
 
#5 · (Edited)
Image


As you can see here, the To radiator and From radiator are very simple and easy to understand. Coolant goes into the engine from the bottom of the radiator, and enters the radiator at the top. When you suck the coolant out, you're doing it to prevent huge overspills of coolant like you described when the air bubbles came out. Sucking out the coolant has no affect on anything else, it's simply for cleanliness. The radiator has plenty of coolant in it and will fill to the top again when the thermostat reopens. The coolant level will not go down a lot by removing coolant, you MAY be able to see the top radiator fins (I could), but that's about it. With the rad. cap off you can do whatever you want, as long as their is coolant in the bottom of the radiator getting sucked in, and not air, you're good to go. ;)

Maybe now it's easier to understand, you keep sucking coolant in the bottom, and let the engine release the coolant and air from the top. Since the rad. cap is off and isn't pressurized, the air can simply escape to the atmosphere and no longer be in your cooling system. The problem with our cars is that the heater hose and heater VSV is at a higher point in the engine bay than the top of the radiator, which is SUPPOSED to be the highest coolant point. Due to this flaw, air bubbles get stuck in the heater and heater VSV, and the only way to flush out the air, is to get the car on a steep incline big enough so the rad. cap is the highest point, and burp the system.

:bigthumb:
 
#6 ·
i would also recommend a modification to the thermostat.

take the thermostat out and use some cutters to cut out that jiggle valve. then, use a drill bit to slightly expand the size of that hole. dont get too carried away, the next size up from the size of the hole will be fine. that will vastly improve air evacuation.

of course, globalthreat's way will work too. but if you still cant get it sorted id do the mod. at the least id do it from here on out.
 
#7 ·
What worked for me is to get one of those coolant flush & fill kits and put the T right in the hose that goes from the back of the head to the heater vsv than take off your rad cap and than fill up your coolant via the T you just installed and when the coolant reaches the radiator and starts overflowing put the rad cap back on, than fill up again till it comes out of the T. Now go for a ride... and the next morning or after the car has FULLY COOLED and is not pressurised take off the cap on the T and top off again... doing this for a day or two will get most if not all out of the rad.
 
#8 ·
dbsupra said:
i would also recommend a modification to the thermostat.

take the thermostat out and use some cutters to cut out that jiggle valve. then, use a drill bit to slightly expand the size of that hole. dont get too carried away, the next size up from the size of the hole will be fine. that will vastly improve air evacuation.

of course, globalthreat's way will work too. but if you still cant get it sorted id do the mod. at the least id do it from here on out.
Never heard of this one before. Are you talking bout the little copper thing above the big hole that is real small?
 
#9 ·
i recommend the coolant burping bucket. it comes with a HUGE funnel thing with a radiator Cap thing that fits our cars. As it burps the system and coolant normally flys EVERYWHERE (just got done doing this 10 mins ago) the coolant fills up inside the bucket part and all the air bubbles come out into the bucket and the coolant then falls back down into the radiator as its taking place of the air bubbles. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND ONE OF THESE!!!!!!
 
#10 ·
Well, I removed the jiggle valve and drilled it slightly bigger. I also tested the thermostat and it worked perfect. I also put a big funnel on top of the radiator cap hole so the water doesnt burp all over and I could see it clear how the air comes out. I thought I got it right because no air came out what I could see.

I took her for a spin and all seemed good and I drove like 10 miles and did some pulls and after that the needle started going up and down and overflow tank was full of coolant again.

How high do you should you get the nose of the car? I drove it to our yard that has an inclined and drove the front wheels over two big logs. How long should you burb the system and what should you do after that? Let it cool down or take it for a spin?

So.. what the heck should I do now? Tomorrow I'll get a new radiator cap and if that doesnt work I'll just call it quits and take it to the stealership or something..
 
#12 · (Edited)
figgie said:
geezes

so much work

here 15 minutes with this and no more "burping"and you can best believe that no "burping" will equal pulling a vaccum on the system ;)

http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_cse.asp#04700
I tried to find a similar kit from our Finnish "Autozone" equivalent but no luck still.. I'll call them tomorrow to see if they have something like that.
 
#13 ·
krister-

another thing that might help.

when you fill up the coolant remove the csi time switch and fill up the thermostat housing to the top. thats where air sometimes gets trapped.

just to recap- this is how we do it.

remove jiggle valve, drill out hole.

remove csi time switch.

fill thermostat housing.

fill up radiator.

replace switch.

fill overflow to cold line.

keeping radiator cap off, start car and turn heater to full tilt.

any bubbles in there will work its way out. oftentimes doing this method there wont be any.

if you want to jack the front of the car up that might aid the process but this method it isnt nec required.

using the method we havent ever had any problems with any of the supras.

however, now that you have air trapped in there it might take some work and convincing to get it out.

hope this helps getting it sorted.
 
#14 ·
Wow, who knew it could be so much trouble?
I've had the coolant in and out of mine at least a dozen times in the last year, and never had any problems like that. The last time I had the rad out the car was actually parked slightly nose down when I burped it, and even then there was absolutely no problem.

Actually the first couple of times kind of sucked, then I discovered that the idiot PO had installed the thermostat with the jiggle valve at the bottom, flipped that upright and it's great. My advice, never buy a vehicle that's been maintained by a highschool autoshop teacher, because you'll find all kinds of stuff screwed up.
 
#15 ·
Serzy said:
What worked for me is to get one of those coolant flush & fill kits and put the T right in the hose that goes from the back of the head to the heater vsv than take off your rad cap and than fill up your coolant via the T you just installed and when the coolant reaches the radiator and starts overflowing put the rad cap back on, than fill up again till it comes out of the T. Now go for a ride... and the next morning or after the car has FULLY COOLED and is not pressurised take off the cap on the T and top off again... doing this for a day or two will get most if not all out of the rad.
This is the easiest way to do it hands down, the Tee stays mounted on the heater hose full time, just mount it so that it is the highes part of your cooling system and it's done.

Image
 
#16 ·
Are you sure you don't have a leak somewhere that's letting more air in? Some hose getting flexed and leaking when the engine torques? Is the hose from the radiator to the overflow bottle airtight? Meaning it allows coolant to be drawn back into the radiator properly?
 
#17 ·
I fill up my radiator, squeeze the heater hose a few time to burp some bubbles out of there, refill and squeeze til I get no air coming out. I then fill my overflow beyond the full line and drive around for a few minutes with a bottle of premixed coolant in the car. I then, using a rag relieve the pressure from the system by turning the rad cap partial turn and slowly let up on it letting out the pressurized air, I'll top off the radiator and drive around a little more. The coolant usually gets drawn in from the overflow tank and I refill the overflow as necessary until all the air is out of the system. I usually only have to do this two or three times at most and the system is completely free of air.
 
#18 ·
Rajunz said:
This is the easiest way to do it hands down, the Tee stays mounted on the heater hose full time, just mount it so that it is the highes part of your cooling system and it's done.

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I used this idea and made a much more robust system, I didn't want to rely on the cheap plastic cap so I used AN -12 hose and fittings and it works like a charm.
Matt

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#19 ·
gilsdorf said:
I used this idea and made a much more robust system, I didn't want to rely on the cheap plastic cap so I used AN -12 hose and fittings and it works like a charm.
Matt

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Thats fucking GENIUS
 
#20 ·
the bucket that attaches to the rad cap is the right way to do it. every car that goes thru toyota is burped/filled w/ the bucket method. i would recommend this.

you can run the car for an hour with this bucket in place untill all the coolant works its way out. any air taht gets into the Top of the radiator wont be sucked up thru the water pump and recirculated thru the motor.

you could leave the heater off so that you work out all the air from the motor first. once theres no more bubbles, then turn the heater on to circulate thru the core. revving the motor will also help speed up the coolant flow and dislodge any "Stuck" bubbles that might get trapped in the thermostat housing or exhaust-side passages.