The purpose of this thread is to have a definitive thread regarding LSx swaps into Supras. A few people have asked questions, and there is interest (albeit few and far between) in this subject.
This thread is intended for informative, and mature responses, and will (hopefully) address any concerns or questions you may have. All ideas and suggestions are welcome; I'm trying to get as much insight into this subject as possible. Anyone who wishes to flame or comment negatively can see themselves out.
After talking with Steve Theodore a few times over PM, and discussing this swap, I am happy to share the ideas I have on how the swap could be done.
I know many people are opposed to this swap and I don't intend to start a 2jz vs ls1 arguement. This swap is mainly for NA cars, cars brought from the dead, etc. No one in their right mind would perform this swap a low mileage (or ANY) TT car; I cannot stress enough that this is simply an alternative and not an end-all-be-all replacement for the 2j.
What:
Any series of LSx motor (ls1/2/6/7, iron, aluminum, etc) engine swap + transmission into the MKIV Supra. This has been done a few times into MKIIIs already.
Why:
This swap is inteded for people looking to:
-add more displacement, low end torque
-lose a few pounds off the front end of their car, improve handling
-provide an alternative to NA or NA-T cars
-improve gas mileage both around town and on the highway
How:
I have broken down my information into three parts;
-mounting/ fabrication
-fuel system
-wiring
I have not performed any of these; all the information I have is purely theoretical and based upon assumption. Any input is appreciated. My goal is a cost efficient swap using many stock parts. I cannot fabricate parts myself, so the goal is to keep custom-fabbed parts at a minimum. Everything will be well documented, and I have found a number of diagrams that have helped (the 95 repair manual, LSx motor dimensions online, RX7 swaps). The wiring will be the most difficult for me, but there are plenty of pinouts for the chassis and motor.
Mounting/ Fabrication:
Dimension comparison:
ls1:
length to waterpump 27.5in
oil pan length 21.5in
sump length ~12-13in (depends on which pan)
t56:
bellhousing to shifter 29.4in
bellhousing to endcase 26.6in
bellhousing to outputshaft 31.9in
bellhousing width 17in
bellhousing height 17.5in
2jz:
length to waterpump 29.5om
v160:
bellhousing to shifter 29.7n
bellhousing to endcase 24.4in
bellhousing to outputshaft 25.6in
bellhousing width 15.5in
bellhousing height 14.1in
Dimensionally, the motors are very similar. The transmissions are also very similar in length to the shifter. The length to the output shaft on the t56 is quite a few inches longer, however.
After reading threads regarding the TH/SP400 swaps, I have come to the conclusion that the t56 will not work, at stock v160 height (no room in the transmission tunnel).
The next obstacle to overcome, will be the stock MKIV subframe. If you read this thread, you will see where I am going.
http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404942
Becuase the Supra has two crossmembers: one for the engine, and the other as a suspension subframe, the Lsx oil pan will not fit, if the motor is to sit lower (due to the transmission). Becuase of this, the center of the suspension subframe, needs to be out of the way.
I researched torquecentral and the RX7 swaps, and found pictures of the stock FD engine bay, and stock subframe (I have pics if you want them). They too, have a giant subframe in the way, which is why most people buy the Hinson kit. The FD/Lsx subframes used, rely on the engine crossmember to support the suspension crossmember. In the Supraforums thread I provided, I posted pictures of what one member's custom FD subframe looked like. Bottom line, the stock crossmembers will have to go, and I need new motor mounts made.
Fortunately, the new tubular K-member should stiffen the front of the chassis as well.
Here are pictures found on SF of what I'm talking about:
Stock (note the engine and suspension subframes):
close up (don't mind the damage):
The potential subframe (this is from an RX7, but very similar).:
The T56 is 3.4 inches taller. This picture is the overlay of the two engines, with oil pans at the same height. Based on this approximation, the base of the T56 is NOT at the same level of the V160. In otherwords, as you can see in the picture, the T56 is larger at both the top of the transmission, and bottom of the transmission. At most, the T56 is 3.4 inches taller than the V160. However, I would venture a guess, as to say that the T56 height is only 2.4 inches taller (at most) than the V160 at a given height. Here is a picture to help explain my theory:
Rather than drop the engine/transmission by the required ~2.4in, I decided to move the engine/transmission in two planes: both foward, and down.
Becuase of the triangular shape of the transmission and its bellhousing, I decided to drop the engine ~.75in, and push the engine .75in forward. Here is a picture to explain:
(Please note: I have not actually calculated how much I will move the engine. I estimate it will be between .75 and 1 inch in both planes. Becuase these are such small figures, and I don't know how both motors exactly compare, I will not have exact figures until I actually do the swap. From these estimates alone, however, it can be assumed that clearance should not be a problem).
From the overlay picture where the motor mounts are estimated, you can also see that the LSx mounts (the box) are further forward. The location of the mounts on the stock MKIV subframe is very large. Becuase I will have a new tubular subframe created (as discussed in my last message), I will simply have the mounts moved forward the appropriate length. Here is an overlay of the MKIV subframe with the location marked for the new mounts (not to scale):
Another reason I decided to move the LSx in two planes, instead of just 2in down, was the pinion and transmission angle.
According to the 95 TSRM, there are three joints in the MKIV driveline: the transmission angle, the joint at the stock driveshaft, and the pinion angle.
The drivline angle is very minimal. The transmission angle is 0*, the pinion angle is ~1*, and the driveshaft joint is ~1*.
Had I only moved the transmission down, this would have affected the driveline angle, and it would have been possible that the u-joint angles would have been too large.
By moving the transmission slightly down and forward, I am not sacrificing as much clearance, and I am allowing my drivetrain to operate under less extreme angles and conditions. I have not found any measurements of the stock MKIV driveshaft, however, after a couple educated guesses, I have concluded that the transmission/pinion angle will be well within normal operating limits after moving the transmission down a small amount.
The shifter should remain unaffected (by moving the T56/ shifter slightly forward), as the forward movement is not only small, but it will also position the shifter more towards the center of the of the console. Here is a picture (taken from MKIV.com) to show what I mean:
Note how the shifter is further to the back of the hole. The shifter should have plenty of room and the throw should not be compromised.
This thread is intended for informative, and mature responses, and will (hopefully) address any concerns or questions you may have. All ideas and suggestions are welcome; I'm trying to get as much insight into this subject as possible. Anyone who wishes to flame or comment negatively can see themselves out.
After talking with Steve Theodore a few times over PM, and discussing this swap, I am happy to share the ideas I have on how the swap could be done.
I know many people are opposed to this swap and I don't intend to start a 2jz vs ls1 arguement. This swap is mainly for NA cars, cars brought from the dead, etc. No one in their right mind would perform this swap a low mileage (or ANY) TT car; I cannot stress enough that this is simply an alternative and not an end-all-be-all replacement for the 2j.
What:
Any series of LSx motor (ls1/2/6/7, iron, aluminum, etc) engine swap + transmission into the MKIV Supra. This has been done a few times into MKIIIs already.
Why:
This swap is inteded for people looking to:
-add more displacement, low end torque
-lose a few pounds off the front end of their car, improve handling
-provide an alternative to NA or NA-T cars
-improve gas mileage both around town and on the highway
How:
I have broken down my information into three parts;
-mounting/ fabrication
-fuel system
-wiring
I have not performed any of these; all the information I have is purely theoretical and based upon assumption. Any input is appreciated. My goal is a cost efficient swap using many stock parts. I cannot fabricate parts myself, so the goal is to keep custom-fabbed parts at a minimum. Everything will be well documented, and I have found a number of diagrams that have helped (the 95 repair manual, LSx motor dimensions online, RX7 swaps). The wiring will be the most difficult for me, but there are plenty of pinouts for the chassis and motor.
Mounting/ Fabrication:
Dimension comparison:
ls1:
length to waterpump 27.5in
oil pan length 21.5in
sump length ~12-13in (depends on which pan)
t56:
bellhousing to shifter 29.4in
bellhousing to endcase 26.6in
bellhousing to outputshaft 31.9in
bellhousing width 17in
bellhousing height 17.5in
2jz:
length to waterpump 29.5om
v160:
bellhousing to shifter 29.7n
bellhousing to endcase 24.4in
bellhousing to outputshaft 25.6in
bellhousing width 15.5in
bellhousing height 14.1in
Dimensionally, the motors are very similar. The transmissions are also very similar in length to the shifter. The length to the output shaft on the t56 is quite a few inches longer, however.
After reading threads regarding the TH/SP400 swaps, I have come to the conclusion that the t56 will not work, at stock v160 height (no room in the transmission tunnel).
The next obstacle to overcome, will be the stock MKIV subframe. If you read this thread, you will see where I am going.
http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404942
Becuase the Supra has two crossmembers: one for the engine, and the other as a suspension subframe, the Lsx oil pan will not fit, if the motor is to sit lower (due to the transmission). Becuase of this, the center of the suspension subframe, needs to be out of the way.
I researched torquecentral and the RX7 swaps, and found pictures of the stock FD engine bay, and stock subframe (I have pics if you want them). They too, have a giant subframe in the way, which is why most people buy the Hinson kit. The FD/Lsx subframes used, rely on the engine crossmember to support the suspension crossmember. In the Supraforums thread I provided, I posted pictures of what one member's custom FD subframe looked like. Bottom line, the stock crossmembers will have to go, and I need new motor mounts made.
Fortunately, the new tubular K-member should stiffen the front of the chassis as well.
Here are pictures found on SF of what I'm talking about:
Stock (note the engine and suspension subframes):

close up (don't mind the damage):

The potential subframe (this is from an RX7, but very similar).:


The T56 is 3.4 inches taller. This picture is the overlay of the two engines, with oil pans at the same height. Based on this approximation, the base of the T56 is NOT at the same level of the V160. In otherwords, as you can see in the picture, the T56 is larger at both the top of the transmission, and bottom of the transmission. At most, the T56 is 3.4 inches taller than the V160. However, I would venture a guess, as to say that the T56 height is only 2.4 inches taller (at most) than the V160 at a given height. Here is a picture to help explain my theory:

Rather than drop the engine/transmission by the required ~2.4in, I decided to move the engine/transmission in two planes: both foward, and down.
Becuase of the triangular shape of the transmission and its bellhousing, I decided to drop the engine ~.75in, and push the engine .75in forward. Here is a picture to explain:

(Please note: I have not actually calculated how much I will move the engine. I estimate it will be between .75 and 1 inch in both planes. Becuase these are such small figures, and I don't know how both motors exactly compare, I will not have exact figures until I actually do the swap. From these estimates alone, however, it can be assumed that clearance should not be a problem).
From the overlay picture where the motor mounts are estimated, you can also see that the LSx mounts (the box) are further forward. The location of the mounts on the stock MKIV subframe is very large. Becuase I will have a new tubular subframe created (as discussed in my last message), I will simply have the mounts moved forward the appropriate length. Here is an overlay of the MKIV subframe with the location marked for the new mounts (not to scale):

Another reason I decided to move the LSx in two planes, instead of just 2in down, was the pinion and transmission angle.
According to the 95 TSRM, there are three joints in the MKIV driveline: the transmission angle, the joint at the stock driveshaft, and the pinion angle.
The drivline angle is very minimal. The transmission angle is 0*, the pinion angle is ~1*, and the driveshaft joint is ~1*.
Had I only moved the transmission down, this would have affected the driveline angle, and it would have been possible that the u-joint angles would have been too large.
By moving the transmission slightly down and forward, I am not sacrificing as much clearance, and I am allowing my drivetrain to operate under less extreme angles and conditions. I have not found any measurements of the stock MKIV driveshaft, however, after a couple educated guesses, I have concluded that the transmission/pinion angle will be well within normal operating limits after moving the transmission down a small amount.
Note: since writing this, I found the length(s) of the MKIV driveshaft(s), and it should not affect the angle in any negative way. (Hopefully once this dream comes to fruition, my estimates will remain correct :gapteeth
The shifter should remain unaffected (by moving the T56/ shifter slightly forward), as the forward movement is not only small, but it will also position the shifter more towards the center of the of the console. Here is a picture (taken from MKIV.com) to show what I mean:
Note how the shifter is further to the back of the hole. The shifter should have plenty of room and the throw should not be compromised.