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Pro EFI Feedback after recent conversion

3.5K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  mav7  
#1 ·
I recently switched from the AEM to Pro EFI, and thought I would provide some initial feedback. I purchased the Pro EFI mainly due to wanting to run E85 and not having to adjust the tune each time I filled up the tank. It also was cheaper than the Motec and I thought it would give me better features than the AEM V2. Not to mention, my AEM CDI died and AEM discontinued it, so I liked the idea of not running wasted spark.

Learning curve on the Pro EFI definitely a bit longer than the AEM, so make sure you read up if you plan to tune your self. I've tuned several cars and I still found the Pro EFI a bit challenging. Even though there is a lot of documentation, I found there to be a lack of explanation of some of the attributes you could tweak, and a lot was trial & error.

I found that even base maps sent by tuners aren't 100% - so make sure you check everything over. As an an example, the base tune I bought did not have knock sensors configured correctly, so the ECU disabled knock control from the start.
Also - even though I plugged in my RPM limiter in the software config, the computer was not enforcing it until you add a rule in the fault manager to cut spark when over rev limit condition occurs. You would think a base map would have that, but it didn't.
Could have ended badly if I over-revved the engine.

Once the calibration is set up properly, I found drivability to be that of the AEM (I had hours of fine tuning in my AEM map so my AEM car drove better than stock). Cold start is equivalent - fires up the first time hot or cold. More importantly, the Pro EFI forces you to wire in fuel pressure, which proved to be valuable later on.

I find the logging capability of the Pro EFI do not be as good as the AEM. While you can log more variables, and have better logging options (for a lot of extra money to purchase an external logger), I am disappointed that the Pro EFI does not offer internal logging built in, or an in-expensive logging option w/out a laptop. Sometimes it is nice to pull the last few pulls you did without having a computer hooked up all the time.
Also, the logging software is a bit different than the AEM. You cannot re-scale certain variables and easily view min/max values. I spend on average more time reviewing Pro EFI logs than I did with the AEM.

But one of the many benefits of a Pro EFI is you do not need to constantly monitor the logs once you get the tune right. The computer automatically handles mixture between pump gas and E85. Also, the ECU protected my motor when my fuel pressure started dropping under boost. Because you can have full control over your check engine light, I have my check engine light triggered when injector duty reaches 99%. On a few E85 pulls at ~27psi, my check engine light went on so I connected the laptop to read the code - turns out the injector duty hit 99%. I cleared the code and then did a log to reproduce the issue - turns out that FP was dropping.

Attached is a log at a different time on low boost, showing FP drop (dark purple line). You can see the A/Fs maintained with the target, due to the Pro EFI automatically compensating for the drop in FP. I wish I had injectory duty logged, you would be able to see that increasing. The check engine light caused me to stop doing pulls and quickly realize I have a fuel issue under boost. As it turns out, my 10 micron aeromotive fuel filter was clogged and needs to be replaced with an E85-compatible one. If I still was on the AEM, who knows how long it would have taken me to realize this problem, and it could have cost me a motor.



I had a chance to play with the traction control and while it certainty cannot keep my car under control from a dig or on a higher boost 2nd gear pull, it does an excellent job whenever timing reduction can reduce torque enough to stop the tires from spinning. This usually ends up being 3rd gear on 25+ psi for my street tires. I have some video / logs demonstrating traction control that I can post up soon.
If the Supra had electronic throttle, we could control the throttle butterfly with excessive wheel speed. Maybe there is a way to run an output to the stock supra traction control butterfly to accomplish something similar?

Overall, I am happy with the Pro EFI and would recommend it to anyone. There is a good community out there using it for Supra's and finding tuning options is not much of a problem.
 
#2 ·
Nice detailed review from a personal prospective. I have pro efi as well and love it never had aem on my supra but had series 1 & 2 on my evo and its night and day difference between the two units but I like them both. I just found out recently there is a Facebook group for pro efi its a good place to ask questions more people are on FB then the forums at any point in time.
 
#3 ·
Nice review. One item that you have wrong though is you don't need to set a cut for the engine overspeed fault. You actually do not want to set a spark cut there as then you have 2 basically have 2 limiters active. That fault is there to trigger other things like shutting off o2 feedback (which you want it to stop) or shut off no2 etc. If you have a revlimit set and properly set up if does the work not the fault action.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info. My "Primary Rev Limit SetPoint" was set at 7100 and my logs showed me hitting 7300rpm a few times and the car never hit any limiter. Only when I went into Fault Manager and set up HardRevLimit on "EngineOverspeed", the car actually started to have a rev limiter, and I do not exceed 7100rpm anymore in my logs. I'll try to remove it again and set the limiter to like 4000rpm and see if anything happens.

mrboost05: thanks - I just joined the group!
 
#5 · (Edited)
You have to adjust the slip among other things to get the traction control better. Local shop that I do work with, has a 6766 car, it makes 921whp, 799 tq at 34 psi or so, on a built 3.0, at any rate, using the traction oem traction control buttons, with it on, and not setup the way it came from proefi, the car spins less than my bpu car from second gear on, its setup that well. When its turned "off", which isn't fully off (set up that way on our end), it allows much more wheel spin, and the car is all over the road, and spins pretty bad, however its not nearly as bad as a car with no traction control.


It takes a bit to get it dialed in correctly, but when it is, the acceleration is brutal. The laptop we use for tuning blue screen's completely everytime, and it actually makes my teeth hurt. I do stress that it dead hooks in second gear. It will take a bit to get it there, but its well worth it in the end. At a the past few roll races, multiple supra's, and other high hp cars were running 15~ inch wheels and huge tires, and they were all over the track, while we were running 305/35/18 Nitto 555r's with no traction issues whatsoever.


Good luck with it, as you get more acclimated it, you will really get to appreciate it. I think it really makes our cars still relevant in today's tuning scene. Ryan Woons old RSP will be finished shortly, it is running a GTX4202, high compression motor, head work etc, should make 1150whp or so, its running Michelin Pilot Sports,that appear to be a few years old. Its rather cold now, so I'm looking forward to seeing how much traction we get with the proefi setup lol. I may post the setup, and dyno sheets when its done.
 
#6 ·
Ive always heard good reviews about ProEFI and always wanted one but couldn't afford one. it goes to show the Gap is closing on features and quality of other units. Ive got a PS2000 and wish I could afford one but Im getting the new Haltech Elite sometime next year since my car already has the patch harness and will save me $500.00 for that alone.
 
#7 ·
That's a great review, mav7! It's always nice to hear from people who do their own tuning and can give objective opinions.

It's my understanding that you can do boost by gear with the proefi. Have you considered doing dual boost solenoids (or a 4 port) with a smaller spring? It seems like it'd be better for the turbo and exhaust valves if torque were limited with lower boost as opposed to higher boost and pulled timing.
 
#8 ·
I am curious what others are doing outside pulling timing and cutting cylinders to keep the car from spinning in 2nd with traction control.. I should have clarified that 2nd gear is ok in 60+ degree weather, but below that it's useless. Boost by gear is a great suggestion... But on warmer days when I can run the higher psi, I may be leaving power on the table. Dont think there is boost control by IAT. Jason did not recommend cutting boost when wheel spin occurs, but it can always be done for further control. Another thing I noticed with boost control, is the car is quick to re-apply the power so you consistently get a spin, no spin, spin scenario. Reviewing the logs indicates not much overall wheel speed increase over time compared to accelerating on lower boost, etc.

I am convinced that electronic throttle would be much more controllable to get traction down, and apply torque limits based on speed and have the computer control throttle, boost and timing accordingly.
 
#9 ·
I was thinking a 5psi spring might give you the control you want for 1st and 2nd gear. You could mix in target per TPS% to further modulate power for the low gears as well. Set this up so you are actually breaking traction but only just. That way the TC will only have to intervene slightly, which should allow much more stable boost control with timing not deviating much from optimum. I believe you can wire in a potentiometer to further modify boost target with the proefi. This might be a solution for bumping boost on warmer days.

E throttle would be nice for setting torque maps, but I think this would be of most benefit to large displacement n/a cars. In our case with a little motor and big turbo, using throttle range 50-100% as a factor in boost target would be similar to a torque map. The more throttle you give, the more torque request which is given through higher boost target. You spread this out over half the throttle range and you've got fairly fine control.
 
#14 ·
Not really a clean run. Started to walk him even with traction control kicking in. Had to shift into 4th while he stayed in same gear, and I continued to pull slightly and he let off before powerband in 4th really kicked in. And my fuel pumps lost pressure so car started to run lean.