Looks like a well made harness.

 

How are you running the harness? What happened to the original grommet on the firewall or the plastic casing that runs along the firewall.

 

I still have it on the original harness but unfortunately the new one didn't come with the Tweak'd CNC plate I have seen advertised recently. Maybe I had to pay extra for that? I dunno, I will figure it out once the harness goes in.

 

very nice

 

Pics of this CNC plate you speak of?

 

Hey Darian, I don't have Facebook anymore but I saw it on their page a couple months ago. It's essentially just a plate that replaces the factory plastic piece at the firewall. Been working hard on the car, it'll be in good standing before making the journey down to you.

 

eek.

 

Patrick,

The CNC plate is for the Mil-Spec harnesses. It's a plate that bolts onto the firewall where the factory rubber grommet used to. The Mil-Spec connector then fits into the plate so you don't have to drill a new hole in your firewall!


-Cam, Tweak'd Performance

 

Awesome, piece, looks like a cannon plug. Awesome plugs that are used in multi wire air craft connectors

 

Very nice! This may be an option for my new car with ProEFI! I really don't want to cut up the existing harness, but would like to lose all of the unnecessary clips and such.

 

That was the reason why I went with this harness. I didn't want all the unused plugs dangling around. In my opinion, if you've already dropped $4k on a Pro-EFI, getting a brand new application-specific harness for it for a third of the price should be a no-brainer.

 

Hey Cam, is there something available for my application at this point or just the MIL-Spec harnesses? What have others done to fill the hole in the firewall?

 

Patrick,

Most people just cut off their original rubber grommet and put it on the new harnesses to cover the hole in the firewall. If there is another solution that people have figured out, I have not heard about it yet.

-Cam, Tweak'd Performance

 

Wow! Will you post up some pics of the engine bay when you have it installed? Looks awesome!

 

Looks amazing Pat!

Mine should be here tomorrow..

They build one of the best and PNP harness without going broke!!

 

Thanks for the info guys. Luckily I do still have that piece from the old harness. I will save it and use it if I can't come up with something different. I really want to make a plate kind of like that one for the MIL-spec harnesses. I will definitely be taking pics of the engine bay once the harness goes in.

 

I ordered mine not long ago for my Aristo swap and I was super pleased. Turn around time was about a week maybe a bit less.

Awesome customer service, especially Cam, always answered all my questions professionally even if they may have been dumb, twice sent me the correct connectors I needed due to not ordering the correct ones initially.

A++ hands down.

 

I ordered one for an auto 240SX 2JZ swap I haven't been pleased with it after getting the car running somewhat recently. Problems with mine: Reverse lights do not work, Overdrive switch not wired (in other words, wired so always in Overdrive with no option to turn it on/off which can kill an A340E trans with big power/single turbo), ETC PWR switch not wired (don't know if it's hardwired in the normal or pwr setting, but I suspect normal as the T/C lockup is almost immediate upon switching gears and from the way it drives/shifts early), oil level sensor wiring removed from harness, stock twin vsv wiring left in the harness even though I stated single turbo swap, temperature gauge has a loose connection somewhere in the wiring (replaced sensor and temp gauge still randomly bounces around, worked fine before swap), and Idle Speed Control Valve does not work (I suppose this 'could' be a non-harness issue, such as ECU, or could be connected to bad wiring for temp sensor but I just spent a lot of $ on brand new ISCV and it still doesn't work...with all the other harness issues noted, can you blame me for thinking it's a problem with the harness?). Additionally I requested and it was advertised that all stock functions of the 240SX would work, but cruise control also does not work even though everything is hooked up

After really seeing what I got for ~$1000, I would not buy another harness from them, and actually regret doing it. If I would have done it myself, I can guarantee I would not have had all of these issues. My honest assessment is that the workmanship is so-so, customer service seemed ok, but they are a long ways from truly giving you a hassle free and complete swap harness. I feel that for what I paid, I did not get what was advertised. Ways to improve:

Include a list of exactly what you did to each harness, after the fact; for example 1. Removed wiring for X, Y, Z sensors 2. Added wiring for X, Y, Z 3. Rewired X, Y, Z 4. Replaced connectors for X, Y, Z. This would give the customer a definite feel good as to the individuality of their application, avoid customer confusion when they find extra plugs (what was this for?) or sensors with no plugs (where the hell is the plug for my oil level sensor?!), and also aids in troubleshooting.

Then, especially for automatic swaps, ask the customer the plan for the ETC/PWR and OD switches, or at least label wires, or provide instructions for wiring in the ETC PWR and Overdrive switches.

Provide information on how to get cruise control or other body harness integration pieces working properly for auto or 5 speed swaps.

Don't remove or add wiring for sensors from the harness unless specifically requested.

In hindsight, if you have some knowledge on wiring, save your $ and spend the time to do it yourself. That way you KNOW what you've done rather than end up like me, trying to figure everything out afterwards anyways/not knowing exactly what they did, and $1000 poorer.

If you want to ask, no I have not brought all these things back to them. We've only had the car running and driving for about a month or two and after discovering the first couple issues, I wanted to make sure we knew everything that was going to be an issue before calling it in. At least this way it gives people an honest assessment on the quality of the harness vs the service/support.

 

I may have found some problems with my harness too but will wait to post about them until I have someone else verify and I speak to Cam or someone else at Tweak'd about it. Bummer :/

 

Very nice! Looks well worth the money and wait!

 

Keep us posted on how the resolve your issues. I want to order one but will hold off for a bit

 

I look forward to a quick resolution for you Patrick, please keep us posted.

 

Unfortunately it seems my harness has been made without the necessary wiring or connectors for the injector resistor box. :/ I will be contacting Tweak'd tomorrow. I've already cut and extended the wires for the iBoost switch by 2 feet as well. I'm bummin' on it.

 

Where did you mount your iBoost switch? I have mine located under my stereo, I'll have to verify with Cameron to make sure he doesn't make mine too short.

 

No need for the resistor box with the ProEFI!

 

Patrick i have the same harness as you!, Mine looks great and I am double checking the pins and everything seems to be in the correct spot..

I am going to fire mine up Thursday.

Like Josh had said there is no need for resistor box with the Proefi.

I have been dealing with Tweak for 8years iirc and I have never had any issues with my harnesses, from 3sgte to 1jz, 2jz.

I am sure They will make it right, I would buy a harness from tweak any day before I buy from CB.

 

Josh is correct, no need for the resistor box if you're using the ProEFI

 

Patrick, I have already spoken to Cameron but you may want to as well. If you look over the ****Tech-Article-TRAC-PUMP-and-TRAC-Actuator-removal-how-to****, you will notice that it states "Get 2x 10K ohm Resistors, 1/2 watt (radio shack, ~$1), insert them in the wiring harness that you unplugged from the trac pump. This will prevent the ABS light from coming on."

Now with the new harness, I want to make sure that my ABS light will not stay on and it will function properly. So if the harness will need to have the plug to insert those resistors and to keep the ABS light from staying on, then Tweak'd will need to leave that connector in.

 

WTF no resistor box regardless of what injectors you're using? I was told originally I'd have to retain my resistor box for the low imp Precision 1000s I have...?

 

I'm using FIC blue max 1450 and I believe they are low imp and I'm not running the resistor box.

 

ProEFI can drive Low-Z injectors directly with no box. I have Precision injectors with my resistor box removed

 

Wow thanks guys, I'm glad I was just misinformed.