Alternator belt ok? Is it tight enough? What voltage reading are you getting?

Could be that burnouts created enough vibrations to shake some things loose.

 

Everything is nice and tight and like stated those lights had been on since the old alternator started going bad. You know how the supra volt gauge is you cant really read it but its sitting around 13

 

I meant breaking out a multimeter and measuring the output. It would also be worthwhile to test continuity across the circuits. While the plugs might be secure, something else may have happened and you'll need to do some testing to find it. This will be good practice at reading wiring diagrams and diagnostics, a necessary skill if you're going to have an old car.

Did you replace the belt with the alternator? Any cracking or glazing on the belt? Ribs in good shape?

 

I would also verify connections on the back of the alternator and that the pins are seated fully in the housing on the back. It can be a little tough to insert all the way depending on age and condition. Wires can sometimes fray as well, so check those out.

 

When the alternator goes bad on these and many other Japanese cars of the period you will see multiple warning lights come on because they are dependent on the brush circuit. If everything turns out to be tight now and you are still having problems you might need to start checking fuses and fusible links. Loose battery connections could cause a fuse to burn out. I would focus on the fuses under the hood mainly.

 

Ok yeah ill take a look, like i stated before I do not think its due to how the alternator was installed, the lights were on before the alternator was installed

 

If the rear plug to the replacement alternator has all 3 wires at plug attached to the built in voltage regulator at rear of alt. and you're still getting the 3 lights lit I circled below, than you have a bad alternator.
You should read at least 1 volt above the engine off base battery voltage with engine running. So example, if battery is reading 12.6 volts with engine off you should get at least 13.6 volts once you start the engine. You want to see 13.5-14.5 volts if alternator is good. Your charging voltage will depend on the battery's state of charge and the loads on the electrical system, lights, blower, etc.
You should always rebuild your own. It's 90% the brushes are worn down and can no longer contact the slip rings. Replacing the brush holder and or the regulator is super easy as they are attached with phillips screws under the rear cover. Today's rebuilts are JUNK IMO.

 

You should always rebuild your own. It's 90% the brushes are worn down and can no longer contact the slip rings. Replacing the brush holder and or the regulator is super easy as they are attached with phillips screws under the rear cover. Today's rebuilts are JUNK IMO.

When multiple lights started to come on in my dash, it was my alternator going bad. Turns out the brushes were worn; it is indeed an easy and cheap project to replace the brushes.

 

so my lights are out light is on, but its just on cause of a license plate, im almost positive my rear lights actually work. The alternator is outputting around 13.6-13.8v I don't think its a bad alt though cause these lights were on with the old one, with the new one they went off, but when it hit its rpm limiter they came back on permanantly

 

so my lights are out light is on, but its just on cause of a license plate, im almost positive my rear lights actually work. The alternator is outputting around 13.6-13.8v I don't think its a bad alt though cause these lights were on with the old one, with the new one they went off, but when it hit its rpm limiter they came back on permanantly

The "Rear Lights" only checks the tail and stop filaments. The 2 license plate bulbs are not part of the load check thru the rear light failure module box

 

Also my abs light that normally comes on because of my wheel speed sensors just hasnt been coming on, still know they are bad though cause o/d light still flashing once it shifts. The most annoying part is my cruise wont work, I take my car like probably 1-2 hours a day and cruise was nice

 

The ABS light and the cruise control both get their 12+ feed from the 7.5 amp gauge fuse so you should check that gauge fuse in drivers side kick panel.

 

I mistakenly mentioned the rear side markers which are not included. If your rear lights are on than you have either a tail or stop filament bad on one of the 4 bulbs. It's 4 dual filament 1157 bulbs, so 4 tail filaments and 4 brighter stop filaments. One filament of the 8 might be bad or you might have a bad/corroded bulb socket contact or a socket ground.

EDIT: You might need to clean out the contacts in the 4 sockets and the solder contacts on the bulbs along with the bulb base sides with a brass brush and than apply a light coat of bulb grease around base sides and bottom 2 contact points of the bulbs before reinstalling.

https://www.autozone.com/greases-an...89sR7XsnciyAvuqqiqeMAr1K8GxRNg6jH33prxTwn-V4K3IeM8YOBoCfkwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Ok

 

Because of the diodes that tie the charge, brake and rear lights warning lights together they will ALWAYS all come on when the alternator has a problem.

 

so should i return this alternator and get a different one?

 

^ Only if those 3 lights are on with engine running.

 

Cruise also needs speed inputs. Does your speedometer work?

 

Also, if someone installs LED bulbs for all of the brake lights without load resistors the cruise will not engage properly.

 

Only if the failure box is not modified for LEDs or bypassed I believe.

 

Yep just striaght up getting the bulb failure electronics out of the way will definitely help. One thing I did notice with LEDs or reduced resistance through the bulbs was noise when the turn signal flasher was on that affected the cruise control module and kept causing the car to slow down. The halogen bulbs provide enough resistance to filter this noise out and prevent it from affecting the module. All of my brake lights are halogen now to avoid all these issues. LED conversions are way simpler on older cars that just have dumb manual switches and no electronics that monitor the lighting circuit. New cars are the worst to convert especially GMs. Nice dash by the way.

 

Having this was a big help when building and testing all the lights. harness for GTE shown, turbo driver plug in lower right

And for anyone who ever needs the wire colors to terminal pins connectors to combo meter:

 

Id like a dash that looks like this but I don't know if I can tear into a dash, I also want the gauge faces from nightrun garage