I'm only replying to your coating question. You can get coatings for any piston. Here's the crown and skirt coatings I got on my CP's:

 

How much did that run? Looks great!

 

Not sure I can find my invoices easily since they're buried in my file cabinets in my shed; but I bought a bunch of stuff, complete built/ported head with Ferrea valvetrain, my two turbos, GSC S1 cams, CP pistons, Carrillo H beam rods, AEMv2, ID injectors ...probably more, from Real Street Performance in Florida through Mark Conte. It was a pleasure dealing with those guys.

 

I'm about to start a motor build. Looking for roughly 1000rwhp on E85. Never mind my fuel system and supporting mods. I'm interested right now in my motor build.

My head is spinning with the advice I'm getting from all different directions.

Pistons: I think I've narrowed it down to Wiseco and CP. Apparently Wiseco has a coating on the skirts that I'm not sure if CP has. I'm not even sure about compression ratio now. My local shop is making big numbers on high compression and not very much boost at all on their built cars by running 10:1. I like the sound of that but he DID mention that the tune has to be dead nuts on. Keep in mind I'm looking to run E85 and be in the 1000rwhp range.

Rods: now THIS is the part that really makes my head hurt. I'm looking for rods that will handle anything I throw at them within reason 1100rwhp or less. What is the best rod for the money? I listed all the ones I've considered at this point. Eagle is out of the question because of multiple stories of bent rods at not very impressive power levels.

Finally, SHOP BUILD. I'm in the SFL area. There's a local shop here called BlockHead and I've heard nothing but good reviews for them. What us a reasonable hone, deck, balance, and assembly cost for something like this? I want a good shop but I'm not willing to spend a multitude of cash on it if I don't have to. The big popular shops charge an arm and a leg. So what other shops do you trust that have done great work and are FAIR in their pricing? To be clear: I'm not looking for garbage, and I'm not trying to be cheap. However I don't like a lot of the rates you see posted on these websites for "them" to do the build for you. Its a little ridiculous actually on some sites. I just want a fair price for what's being done at a good shop somewhere in Florida.

I'm expecting honest help here, not a flame board of search and search. I believe I have done an EXTENSIVE amount of research and I want the CURRENT feel from the board members.

first off, stay away, far away from Blockheads. that place is truly a joke. there is nobody in the Martin or St.Lucie county area that i would let build me a bicycle if i had one or even walk on my side walk. since u are close to West Palm, take ur engine to TEC, Total Engine Concepts, they are the resident engine buider for Titan, Mike Covecks and Bruce are hands down some of the most impressive engine builders in South FL, their shop is so clean u can eat off the floor and their knowledge of 2JZ's and engines is awesome. They are super nice to work with and are very fair with there prices. have u looked at the Assymetrical pistons from JE? SP uses lots of Wiseco's in there builds with great success. as for rods, of the ones u listed i would say go with the BC Pro, but have are u open to some other suggestions on them? Such as the Manley Turbo Tuff's or Pauter X Beams? if u want PM me, i can talk to you more about shops in our area and the problems with them

 

+1 on TEC. They built the motor in my car and having spoken to them on the phone they are very knowledgeable and very helpful and prices are extremely fair. The build was top notch.

Running 900whp/800wtq on E85, 10:1 compression, CPs + Eagle rods.

 

Where have you heard of these eagle rod failures? I personally know someone who has had eagles in there engine for 6+ years, has made hundreds of 1/4 mile runs, hundreds of dyno runs, standing mile, street action etc. Engine has never been refreshed and the car make over 900whp on E85.

 

See this is what I'm talking about. Never ending contradictions LOL Lance apparently tuned a car that made 1050 or so at the wheels and the rods bent. MVP says don't try over 800. Titan says 1000 or less.

Now about block head, does anybody else have that same review? That's the first bad thing I've heard about them. Granted its all locals.

 

In all honesty, I think you should be more concerned about the torque numbers than the horsepower numbers.

 

Somebody give me a +2 and a phone number and I'm sold. Ice you sold me on your setup.

 

being Titan's machine shop should be enough to convince ya of the quality of work and how good they are. will shoot ya a PM.

 

Ice what turbo and boost is that at to get that range?

 

Talk to me, Goose.

 

Some people say CP pistons have piston slap when cold, while Wiseco does not. The Manley rods have option of upgraded rod bolts, im not sure if K1 has.

 

Some people say CP pistons have piston slap when cold...

Put me on the list of no piston slap at any time with my CP's.

 

You'd be crazy not to use eagle rods for your goals. You better do a search on Eagles. Don't let the name fool you.


Show me proof of all these Eagle rod failures.

 

I'm about to start a motor build. Looking for roughly 1000rwhp on E85. Never mind my fuel system and supporting mods. I'm interested right now in my motor build.

My head is spinning with the advice I'm getting from all different directions.

Pistons: I think I've narrowed it down to Wiseco and CP. Apparently Wiseco has a coating on the skirts that I'm not sure if CP has. I'm not even sure about compression ratio now. My local shop is making big numbers on high compression and not very much boost at all on their built cars by running 10:1. I like the sound of that but he DID mention that the tune has to be dead nuts on. Keep in mind I'm looking to run E85 and be in the 1000rwhp range.

Eagle is out of the question because of multiple stories of bent rods at not very impressive power levels.

I'm expecting honest help here, not a flame board of search and search. I believe I have done an EXTENSIVE amount of research and I want the CURRENT feel from the board members.

Obviously you haven't, or I think these thread's would have changed the way you felt about Eagles. Anyone who tells you Eagles are junk are full of it. That includes big name shops.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh.../forum/showthread.php?684787-Calling-ALL-EAGLE-ROD-USERS.&p=9029121#post9029121

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...showthread.php?544782-Eagle-H-beam-Rods-input-Neg-or-Pos.&p=8976838#post8976838






PM Armin, this is his car in the vid. He builds and tunes his own car, and has made close to 1200whp with Eagles. Yes, he drag races the shit out of his car (3 years straight without failure), and there are many others using these rods in 2j's making, and sustaining 1000+whp:

 

I think I'm sold on the eagle rods. Kinda disappointing some things I've been told by some people I've trusted for years. These people won't post here because it would be a firestorm and I understand that. Maybe they are both referring to the old school eagles. I'm hoping so. Either way, everyone is claiming big numbers and reliability and very few instances of failure. I'm sold.

So now its onto the pistons. Wiseco or CP? I want to run the 10.0:1 setup. Sounds like a great way to obtain bigger numbers with a less laggy turbo. I think the coating sounds like a good idea the way CP does it tops and skirts. What's yours thoughts? I'm thinking CPs coated vs Wiseco with a skirt only coating price difference is kinda leaning towards the CP even if its a few hundred more. The pistons do take a bigger punch it seems. I'm thinking for $100 more from Titan it's hard to understand why not go with CP other than the coating issue.

Btw thanks supragom for posting those two threads. I indeed did miss them. And the one was just bumped today!

Thank you everyone for the help so far.

 

tec user here as well .. heres a setup i ecently built from ground up for customer

cp 9:1 pistons .20 over
eagle upgraded rods
acl bearings
balanced and blueprinted by tec

ferrea full head

at 30 psi car did 715rwhp on e50 or less (e85 mixed with pump gas )wasnt full tune just a starting point

 

Wiseco does not make off the shelf 10.0:1 pistons so if you want them you will pay more and wait a while. CP does make 10.0:1 off the shelf and you can add coating for approximately $25 per cylinder per coating. Only adds a week.

Personally I would run Manley I Beam turbo tuffs. Less money than Pauter and Carillo and probably just as strong.

 

The eagle is still soaring across canada.

I dont think coating the pistons is worth the extra $$. I think over time (couple of years) the coating will eventually wear off. Someone correct me if they have seen a car driven 20K+ miles and the coating was still mint.

Either piston wiseco or CP is good. Just get the upgraded wrist pins for the extra trq you will be making on E.

As for builders use the advice of guys on here who know the shops around you.

Lexforlife...love the bling on that motor.

 

took 15k for the break in non permanant coating to wear off on my wiseco's and 5k to wear off on the wiseco permanent coating lol. I would never pay for any coating. something has to wear, the wiseco coating is .0005 thick.

 

first off the parts chosen stars with intended useage is this daily? Is it a nice day weekend car? Will i use nos in the future? Think about this and decided, if there is any doubt you need to accout for it now. E85 with high compression is is great if you have e85 all around your area and dont plan on using pump gas with boost however with a good tuner and ecu this may not be so big of a problem. I would suggest speaking with your intended tuner before swiping the card lol. As for wiseco vs cp vs je vs whatever everyone thinks is the best falvor for the month. Most of these pistons start off as the same stock from the same supplier. What sets them apart is the design. Some are dedicated forgings some are cnc'd after the fact. I use wiseco for very specific reasons, you wont find another piston with as many standard features. Piston slap? you will have some with your intended power range.

The piston to wall clearance on a 500rwhp car used for roadracing will not be the same as a 1200rwhp car used for drag racing nor would the ring gaps, and i would be weary of any shop that wants to build your engine without asking you more than "how much power you want"? With this said wiseco uses dedicated forgings and off set wrist pins with longer skirt prfiles this will make their piston quieter than the competition given the same specs. Cp will also have this availible for extra cost. Cp generally allows you to run tighter piston to wall specs to minimise noise among other things. Skirt coatings i say who cares the hp will be minimal if at all. I have run coated and uncoated the noise was the same and wear was not really affected. Crown coatings and e85 i would not bother unless i was planning on building a road race monster.

Eagle rods i venture to say i have more miles and checks on them than anyone on the forums. I usually run them 10k or so then tear down and check straightness, i check the big end and small end. After many miles (over 30k) and years i retired my set in perfect condition, and bought another set. With that said i would not set out to build a over 1000rwhp engine with any cheap rod. You also need to decide if you are using a shelf stock piston or a custom with the options you want. Depending how set you are on your goal i would speak with alpha on the setup.

In the end you are paying for the expertise of the machine shop. What type of bearing clearances to run with what oil pressure and weight? This is really what you are paying for precise machine work should be part of it. I have built many engines i get the machine work done and i give the specs and assemble. Need help shoot me a pm. I started with a mkiii because there are not many around here. I left the 7m in it on purpose to prove a point, an engine is an engine...

 

Eagle rods for the money. Use the money saved to pay for the best tuner.

 

Lots of great information in this thread!

 

Great info, I have a short block waiting to get built and have been trying to figure out what I want in it so this is just what I needed.

I think I'll be going with the BC rods and CP 10:1 pistons

Keep the info coming.

 

I bought my car in this condition and have no story to say exactly what fuel, ignition, nitrous, boost, etc. the engine was experiencing during the dyno pull that caused all this damage but I will tell you what the results were. CP pistons; nearly every intake valve relief was melted/missing, and one piston had a dime+ size hole through the top & side.

Crower rods all in great condition except for some melted aluminum on the top of the #4 rod.

#4 cylinder wall badly gouged and required a sleve.

I decided to go with Wiseco coated pistons for my build, had one cylinder sleved and the rest bored. Inspected and reused my Crowers and had the rotating assembly balanced. Pistons were nearly perfectly balanced out of the box. I'm making just under 500hp and I've got about 4K on the engine so far and have been very happy with it. +1 for Wisecos but also I'm not sure about high compression options, mine are standard.

 

A bad tune will destroy pretty much any piston, I would imagine. I have BC Pro Series rods and CP pistons (std comp). I wanted high compression slugs but I had these before the benefits of e85 had been fully realized.

 

After reading reviews, I went with the eagle/ CP combo for my build.

 

Thrustn what range of power are you at with the 67?

 

Ill be running the eagle rods in my (hopefully, we'll see) 1100hp build. will update if engine goes kaboom! lol

 

Eagle/CP is probably the most cost efective however I went with Carillo/CP with the upgraded wrist pins and have zero complaints thus far.

 

Glad to hear...that's what I went with.

 

Thanks for the info Reid!